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Triumph TR6 - Help. Rack and Carbs

Has any one done the solid steering rack conversion? How much vibration does it transmit up the steering column? It seems so much easier and direct than replacing the rubber mounts and squishing them. If one uses urethane mounts do they still require compressing?
I also have a carb question. How much does changing the float level change the mixture? (eg. higher float = richer mixture) After a recent carb rebuild the "lift the air valve" method of checking the mixture says too lean. The needles are already set at max. rich. The spark plugs however say just right, and the car runs great and pulls strong from low revs with no hesitations. There is slight uneven idle, but if there are any air leaks, I can't find them! Any unusual air leak areas I may have overlooked?
Chris W

Wow another Chris to the BBS site. Certainly the Canadian connection/contingent is well represented here. Pretty soon people will think that Canada was the #1 export region for the TR6!

I experienced the same problems with the carb as you did when I replace the needle valves with groose jets. I never did get the lift the air piston as no matter how I adjust the mixture (CW or CCW) if I lift it, the car wants to stall so I will be interested in what the masses say.

Best way to test for air leakage is to spray some Quick Start around the manifold and back of the carbs, also around the throttle shafts. If the revs suddenly increase than you have a vacuum leak.

A word of caution Quick start is compressed Ether and it is explosive and inhaling it will knock you out into a deep sleep and you will be ready for surgery. Use a face shield and don't breath when you are spraying. Some garages use propane for this test as well so a plumbers can of propane will do with attachment.
Steven

I did replace the needle valves but I don't the new ones are groose jets. I've heard the name, but whats the dif?
Chris

Needle valves is a spring operated mechanism where the valve is of a thin needle design and fits into a seat.

Grose jets is a slant of a different way of metering fuel and uses 2 ball bearings as the valve closing mechanism. The thought is that it makes a better fit and debris does not clog up the seat and there is less chance of them binding thus preventing fuel from flowing out of the carb starting a potential fire hazzard. Also the popular thought is that grose jets are quicker reacting so that the fuel is always at the right level in the bowl.

Final advantage is the the grose jets are a third of the cost
Steven

Hi ChrisW

If your plug read is a happy camper and your idle only a slight bit off don't mess with it. Take my advice on that.:)

Why do you want to go to solid or urethanes to mount steering rack? Old rubber ones have to be pretty bad to cause a noticable steering problem.

For road use both will shorten the life of the rack no lateral shock absorption. Last time I looked racks aren't getting cheaper.

As far as easy goes replacing rubber bushings are about a 20 minute job per side if you have never done it before using hand tools. Hit all 4 bolts with a good dose of liquid wrench penetrating oil 20 minutes before. They are studs and you don't want to break.

Most of your time will be spent cursing National fine thread and nyloc nuts. I personaly believe the good Lord put the idea in someones head to invent air tools after listening to a Brit. Car Mechanics profanity while cranking on the same bloody nut for half an hour. "My opinion only and not supported by most religious orders".:)

Bill


Bill Brayford

The rack, as it is now, moves slightly (5mm) side to side when turning. The first movement when cornering is pushing the rack before the car starts to turn. The nuts losten up easily enough, but I just can't get the rubber bushings to compress properly to stop the movement. The turn the wheel one way, tighten one side then turn the wheel the other way and tighten the other side thing doesn't seem to help.
Chris

Hi Chris
I went with the solid aluminium mount and am happy with it. I do not think there is more vibs up at the steering wheel. If u go this route, be careful tightening down the nylocs on the u-bolts that u do not (experience talking) crack the aluminium bracket. Also do not shift the rack left or right. Pull the rack either to the front or back of car equally left and right side when tightening. You other choice is the poly mount and you get to use the original bracket.

CARBS
Like Bill said..if it aint broke don't fix it!!
Why is it that this seems to be a popular issue with some of us? Chris go to the archives..Oct 2002 and you will see that I to am having fun with my carbs. Remember u must register at this BBS in order to view the archives.
Steven, that is interesting that after replacing TO gross jets you could not adjust the carbs. All you engine guys out there lets hear from u!!
I do not think that adjusting the float level will alter mixture. If I am wrong here..PLEASE let me know! I guess that brings up a question..if the float is NOT adjusted properly (low level) could this give lean conditions? I also have gross jets and went this route for same reasons as Bill said
Chris, I will not suggest you look at the BP valves. Is the Temp. Comp. working or sticking? Remove and clean with carb cleaner..do not adjust. Correct level of oil in the damper? Is the vent hole in the top cover pluged? Are carbs ballanced? Do not muck about with the carbs to much..they sound like they are working fine.

.
Finally... IMHO, Quick start (ether) should be banned from this planet...well at least for gasoline internal combustion engines. This stuff is dangerious! Ether is used to start long sitting or cold diesel engines and even then only a one to two second shot goes into the air breather filter. The plumbers propane torch is a good substitute. You are not spraying a paint eating chemical and you do not have to worry about brain damage from the concete floor as you pass out. Simply pass the unlit torch over potential leak areas and if RPM increases then you have found a leak.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Chris,
I felt the solid aluminum rack mounts to be a bit harsh. So, I replaced them with the stock mounts. I now have a set of aluminum mounts for sale, I was going to put them on Ebay but you or anyone else on the board interested can have first crack at them. These were from Moss and only have a few hours on them. I have to agree about the nyloc nuts.... what a pain. How about $25.00 US, they should ship through the post just fine but I do not know how much it would cost to send to Canada. Steve Yott.
Steve Yott

Hi Chris,
I recently went with a "quick" steering rack which came with the solid aluminum mounts which I have installed. I dont think that the feel is harsh but there is more road feel which is what I wanted.
Regards
Mike M

Mike- Do you find the quicker rack "jumpy or twitchy"
Don K.
DON KELLY

Go for the solid rack mounts - the most cost effective improvment to handling you can make, in my opinion. I've used them for 15 years. There have been rumours of damaged racks caused by lack of give when a wheel is curbed, but I have been off-track on several occasions with no ill effects. Most of the vibration is taken out by the rubber dougnut on the steering column.
Peter Cobbold

Don,
Not twitchy or jumpy! No play or sloppyness - quicker turning and really firm positive feeling - in part probably due to all parts being new and up to spec. I ordered my rack from the UK Cambridge Motorsports. I had to do some file work on the aluminum mounting blocks to make the mount bolts clear properly but easy work.
Mike M

Chris , Nanaimo,
this is Chris Beeton, Spent some of my youth in Nanaimo,
good bar town. Have solid aluminum steering mounts
and would never go back.
Christopher Trace

This thread was discussed between 12/12/2002 and 22/12/2002

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