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Triumph TR6 - Hood Frame
I've removed the soft top from the frame and in doing, discovered that the front frame piece that mates with the windscreen had a good deal of "play" about the rivets, then as I was removing the last pop rivets the frame piece disconnected from the left corner rivet. While I'm figuring out whether to rerivet that corner or use a bolt, someone please enlighten me as to whether there should be any looseness or play in that connection? The frame piece was loose enough to permit somewhat of an angle to what I would call the longtitudial axis of the frame as it approaches the windscreen. Should the front piece be oriented in the same plane as this axis or is it properly "loose" so that is has some give in attaching to the windscreen?? Also would a short bolt and nut work just as well as the steel rivet? Thanks for your analysis and help.
Albeit I am no expert a other in this BBS, I went through a similar excercise this summer in completely restoring a very old and dilapidated frame. The front rivets on mine were the only things still "tight" as they should be. I would recommend using rivets as originally done so you dont create additional obstructions to the tight fit of the softtop to the frame and the frame to the windshield.
just an opinion
That part should be rigid.
I do not know if a steel rivet will be strong enough. What I mean is, the rivets we shade tree mechanics use are only as big as the rivet gun we have. You can go pretty big but I think it is still smaller that OE rivets. Also the OE rivets are steel and are pressed on by a press that will give a little more force than a small rivet gun. The "sheer" strength I would guess at being 2 to 3 times greater.
A nut and bolt would work as long as it does not interfer with anything.
|Bob, Rick, |
Thanks. Knowing that the front piece should be rigid solves a good bit of the problem. Rick the OE Rivet is steel and I think that I can replace that with a like steel rivet. The key is making sure the malleable end is properly peened to insure a tight fit. Heating is an option wherein the steel softens somewhat, but it takes a forge or a lot of torch to get the rivet red hot. Not having a several ton press, I'll just have to use an anvil and a big hammer and trust that I'm successful:) If bolts would work, I'd remove all the other OE heavy rivets which have rubber washers to permit the frame to collaspe properly. After 34 years, that rubber should really be replaced and TRF has the parts. It's just getting those rivets back in properly that's the problem. Anyone else have any experience doing this job??
|Doug- After everything is apart. Strip and powder coat all.|
|Just put a tac weld on either side of the large steel rivet...that will solve any movement and play issues...I have done this with good success in the past|
had exactly the same thing happen to me, as Chip says
the best way is line the frame up on the car to make sure your angles are correct, zap a couple of mig spot welds, remove the frame and finish the welding off the car. It should have been done that way in the first place
|I just completely stripped my hood from frame. Had it powder coated and sprayed and then rebuilt it.Rather than going through the hassle of finding a press to redo the rivets (reproductions from Moss)I used a bolt and locknut.You will need to grind down the head so that it doesnt interfere with the velcro strip rail though.I found that when it was fully tightened the front strip was at the wrong angle to the window frame.Hence I've loosened mine a bit.Maybe that's just mine but it works and doesn't fall to bits!!|
This thread was discussed between 21/01/2005 and 25/01/2005
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