MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Horn problems

I have had problems in the past with the horns working intermittently, but after cleaning some connections the horn seemed to work all the time. However, I just replaced the turning signal switch, and going through the steering wheel column, I may have disturbed the P/B horn wire again.

For the most part, the horn would works without keys or when key is in position 1. But, when in running or in position 2 or 3, nothing happens! Could this be ignition or relay related?

I was hoping to get it inspected this week, but I may have to cancel my appointment, since the wipers aren't working either. I may have gotten a little over zealous with my wrenches trying to loosen up the steering column clamps. Thanks!

Mark
72 CC76681L
Mark Wright

Mark
Horn is powered directly from Bat. through fuse to relay via the P/B wire so ignition has no effect on horn operation. Since horn is intermittent I would say electrical connection problem rather than relay problem...but you may as well clean and dielectric grease (DG.) the connections at the relay.
The P/B wire has a lucar connector under steering column so check and DG.it. Another potential problem is ground. The steering column is ground to the horn. You will see ground straps around the rubber steering column coupler just inside the engine bay. Also another ground strap at base of steering column at steering rack....check, clean, and DG. these connections.

The horn push is another potential problem. Remove horn push and you will see that + is sent through a spring loaded brass rod to a brass ring...clean and DG. both. The - horn is a ground wire to the threaded steering wheel mount....check and DG. You might even have bad FIRST connection at the horns.
As far as the wipers are concerned. Markm you know there is not a lot of room behind the dash and you might have disturbed a conection to the wiper switch.

Do you have Professor Dan Masters wiring schematics for your TR6?
Rick Crawford

The BBS has been prettty slow lately with nearly everyone spending more time on the road than at their computer.

If you haven't downloaded Dan Master's excellent schematics, they can help a lot.

http://www.britishv8.org/techhome.htm

Charlie
EC Smith

Mark
OOPS, hit enter after spell check and posted without me finishing.

Go to : http://www.advanceautowire.com/
and go to STOCK SCHEMATICS and SAVE AS..

Dan also has a very excellent book on electrical problems solving for sale. You should consider purchase. Not expensive and have only heard top rated comments.
DAN, I did not see this on your WEB page but know the book is here. http://members.aol.com/danmas6

Good luck
Rick C
Rick Crawford

I do have Dan's book and even laminated the wiring diagram.

I wasn't very diligent in cleaning all the grounds for the horn, so I'll check those next. I just thought it was odd that the horn would work until I started the car.

Thanks
Mark Wright

Aloha Mark - Awhile back I read here that the steering column lock, which is actually a small metal bar, can provide a ground. When the ignition key is turned, it retracts the bar and removes the ground. Your normal horn ground wire must be broken somewhere. You could try using a test ground by running a wire from the steering column (inside the engine compartment) over to the neg terminal of the battery.

Jeff
74 CF13816U
JB Fetner

Mark, My two bits....
hookup horn directly to a 12v power supply ... if they sound then great, if little sound then slowly turn the adjusting screw in or out until they begin to sound 'brightly'. These are fairly sensitive and can fall out of adjustment over time resulting in a sporatic opperation. Best of luck, Rob
Rob Gibbs

Mark,
I was looking at the steering coupler in my '74 and decided that it was shot and needed a replacement. After removal I found that the braided ground wire that runs through the center was only holding on by 3-4 threads. I made up a replacement with #10 stranded wire and installed that with the new rubber coupler. I now have both horns for the first time in 4 years of fiddling! Hope this works for you.
Tip - use a band clamp to compress the new rubber coupler to help align the bolt holes.
Steve
Steve Crosby

Thanks for bringing it up, Steve. I checked my jumper wire there today, same as yours was. Good preventive maintenance is the best way to go.
Tom

Problem solved. I replaced the ground wire on the steering coupler as Steve suggested. Mine was also really bad shape also, but not bad enough to be the problem. It turned out that the ground connection on the steering rack was nonexistent. Perhaps there was another ground somewhere else, because it did work intermittently.

Whatever the case, it works now! Dan Master's book mentions these are the two places to look first. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Mark
Mark Wright

Hi, Mark
I havn't thank you for those archived article you printed and mailed me. Again, thank you very much.
I also have horn problem of my own. When I push the horn, all I can here is a click from a connector block(a relay ?) near the driver side in the engine bay. One of my horn works when connected to 12v source. One just gives out a short sound and goes silent. A shorted coil may be? Can these horn be repaired?
I will check the ground where you have mentioned and see at least one horn will work.
Paddy
Paddy Kan

I think you can take the rivets out and clean the points, then screw or rivet them back together. But you must have a bit too much resistance in the circuit somewhere, too. It might help to bang on the horn (or bang it on something) while you have power to it to loosen it up.
Tom

Paddy,
I had the same problem on my '71, The clicking comes from the horn relay on the left fender near the fuses. My problem was cleared up by cleaning the contacts inside the relay. I guess I don't honk often enough to keep them clean.

The relay opened up by straightening out the crimps in the metal edge, and the board falls right out with everything attached. A pair of strong pliers or visegrips will do it. You don't need to remove any rivets. Be careful of the thin wires that wrap the relay magnet.

Once open, you can clean and test it before you put it back.

Good luck.
Mark
Mark Hauser

I check last weekend, I have 12.5v at the contact of the horn which is working. But I only managed a click sound. Later I found out if I push the horn button on the right side ( right half), it works! If I push on the left half, then just a clicking sound. Anyone have this experience before?
thanks
Paddy
Paddy Kan

Paddy, it sounds like your contact at the horn button needs a little scraping or filing (on one side at least). There's a lot of current there, it sparks a bit every time, and it's probably pitted and burned, not letting enough juice through.
Tom

This thread was discussed between 06/07/2005 and 27/08/2005

Triumph TR6 index