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Triumph TR6 - Left Rear wheel frozen

Left Rear wheel is frozen. Any ideas or suggestions
D. McNeil

Binding brakes??
R. Algie

Brake drum rusted to shoe? How frozen is it? Any rotation at all? Is the wheel stil on? Is the brake drum still on? Can you back off the shoe adjuster? How long has the car sat and how was it stored?

More details please. Thanks

Bob
R.C. Blair

No rotation at all. Sat in unheated garage for one year. Prior to that it was running./ The EX went to the car and the rear wheel was frozen. I found out just last week. Wheel totally frozen. Right wheel is free and will rotate when in gear. I am working on removing the brake drum which is rusted on
D. McNeil

Probably just stuck a little. Don't use a hammer on the outside edge of the drum, or you'll be buying another one (ask me how I know). Maybe a little vibration from a rubber mallet would be OK. I'm assuming that the design is similar to the TR3 and early 4 here.. Loosen the adjuster on the backplate a little first. Find something that fits in the small space between the drum and the backplate, like a thin, strong screwdriver, and patiently go all around that groove, levering as much as you can without ruining your tool. Keep prying with a screwdriver, prybar, whatever all around the outside. Once you get it started, it will get easier and easier.

If it runs, maybe just rock it back and forth with engine power. If that knocks it loose, it'll be easier to get off and clean out. Good time to inspect the wheel cylinders, etc.

I hope I helped you, nothing earth shaking.
Tom

I overhauled the rear brakes (and the rest of the car) two years ago and in my opinion the rear brakes need regular attention due to the somewhat strange design with the one-piston sliding wheel cyl. So when you get the drum off I would remove everything and clean up and lubricate the sliding slot as well as the conical adjuster.

Good luck, Goran
G Wennergrund

I've never parked for a long time with the parking brake on after being told it can cause the drum to freeze. Myth or reality?

Don from Jersey
D Hasara

Actually, Don just gave me an idea - Check the parking brake cable - it may have frozen in the "on" position (although I have never seen the parking brake lock the wheel tight, but that plus drum rust could lock the wheel).
R.C. Blair

I have had the problem twice after storing TR3's for a long time. The first time, I just took the drum off (came off quite easily) and put it back together, no problem since. I don't remember if I had the parking brake set or not, but I don't think I did. This was after a year or two without moving the car. The second time, different car, the drum didn't come off quite as easily. But as soon as I got enough leverage between the drum and backplate, the shoes did release from the drum. I turned the adjuster way back, didn't seem to help at the time. I might just as well have sprayed a bunch of penetrant in there this time, as the friction material had come loose from one shoe and quite a volume of rust had built up between the shoe and lining. Many years of storage (18?). Had to get them relined, of course. Amazing how steel and moisture react, isn't it? Maybe next time, a big ziplock bag and a bushel of silica gel? (For the whole car) Maybe vacuum packing?
Tom

D.
Do not forget that the 2 slotted screws on the face of the drum MUST be removed first before drum removal. These sometimes can also be frozen.
Rick Crawford

Don,

My .02. Typically the 'freezing' can be the park brake cable. Moisture CAN get into it and cause the very issue you describe.

I always just parked in gear.

Jim
Jim Deatsch

Jim,

When I was much younger, I remember pushing my '78 Ford Fiesta (cool car, I know) down the gravel driveway with my stepfather's Massey-Furgeson tractor in hopes of getting the left rear wheel to unfreeze - it took about 50 feet before it turned properly. To my surprise, I didn't damage the car or tractor.

I now park in gear only. If it's a long-term park, I'll chock the wheels.
D Hasara

Now, now. You be nice to that Fiesta. THAT, my friend, is the car we get our Bosch alternators from that are a direct bolt on and plug in for our TR6s and Spitfires and other LBCs.

So there. <G>

Jim
Jim Deatsch

Well i did remove the set screws on the face and still the drum is not free. Tried a wheel puller and the has failed. Wheel still frozen. Next will try to drill out the drum
D. McNeil

Before going to drastic measures I would try to move wheel cyl. with a mandrel and a hammer. As I wrote earlier, the wheel cyl. is supposed to move by counterforce of the single piston. The rule seems to be that they get stuck in one pos (rear braking with one shoe only). Could be be that you once apply the brakes unusually hard which moves the more or less stuck cyl. to a new pos (brakes applied) where it will stay.

Difficult to explain, hope this makes sense. Goran..
G Wennergrund

If it's that stubborn, I suppose I'd spray a bunch of PB Blaster or whatever in there, wiggle all around, repeat. Pretty soon the shoes will give up their grip on the drum. The sideways pressure is all you really get, but should be enough once there is some juice in there to break the bond.

Again, if it runs, get the wheels back on the ground and rock it with engine power. Maybe a 10 foot cheater on the axle nut or bolted on 2 wheel studs would get it rockin' enough to break it free.

I hope you don't have to drill, but tell us how it goes. How about heating the drum with a torch? Be careful, but determined.
Tom

This thread was discussed between 16/07/2004 and 06/08/2004

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