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Triumph TR6 - Mysterious 'Anti-Squeal Grease'

Is there a special unique application grease that is used to coat the anti-squeal shims for the front pads? This 'mystery grease',TRF #GISP1251, is no longer shipped with the anti-squeal shims or the pad fitting kit. What is this stuff? Can I simply use lithium or bearing grease?
Thanks,
Keith
Keith

You need a high temeprature grease for this application, lithium would be out, but the bearing grease might work. VW used to have something they called "non-melting grease" that was used for this under a VPW type part number. It came in tube like one used in a grease gun and was pretty much a lifetime supply assumed that you didn't lose it. I've been working out of the same tube tube for over 25 years now. However, you should be able to pick up a small packet of grease intended for use on the anti-squell kits at most parts stores.
SteveP

The normal stuff used on this side of the pond is copper grease which I would think would be easily available on your side
Ron
R. Algie

Another trick for squealing brakes is to chamfer the edge of the brake pad...use a file to put approx a 45 degree angle on all around the edge of each pad. I used my bench grinder ( wear a mask ) it takes seconds to to it and my brake squeal dissapeared.
I had first tried anti-squeal silicone type product which helped a little bit but the chamfering completely took it away.
Charlie
Charlie Ballard

Charlie
As I started to read this thread I was thinking I have seen pads chamfered and woundered if the reason was for anti squeal. Thank you. You answered my question. Out they come and over to the grinder!!!
How much / deep is your chamfer?
Thanks...looking forward to quiet brakes:) and geting rid of that embarasement:)
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Keith--Pick up a bottle of blue "disc brake quiet" found at most auto retailers and put the shims in storage. It's a goop that you slather on the back of the pad before installation. An aerosol product is also made for this.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick,
As I recall I came in on the surface and side about an 1/8" and angled it based on that.
It's easy to do and very fast with a bench grinder, even a handheld would work fine.
The only trouble I had was with the disc break quiet it got onto the rubber seal around the piston and although it did peel off it was a pain..maybe I used to much.
Every year I'd try it again but I never thought of removing the shims...since back on the road I've just put on a total of 100 miles of driving this morning and have had not one peep from the brakes....touch wood!
Charlie
Charlie Ballard

Thanks Charlie,

My Honda CBX has had front pad squeel since I put new pads on it (dual rotors so it's REALLY squeely) and I'll try your trick.

Under normal situations, were this on my TR6, the Goose honking would drown out the brakes, but they don't squeel.

The Goose won't ride with me on the bike.

Jim
Jim Deatsch

Charlie,
After grinding the pads, do you still install the shims?
Keith
Keith

Keith
Yes I did..along with a dab of disc quiet
Charlie
Charlie Ballard

I had a case of the squeaks which first occurred on the way back from a track day when I had used racing compound pads for the first time. I thought it may have been the excessive brake dust which filled the crevice in the rubber caliper/piston seal, preventing retraction of the piston from the disc. Took it apart, cleaned, reassembled, re-tensioned the wheel bearings etc. All was fine for about 10 minutes on the road, then EEEH, EEEH, EEEH ad nauseam.
Front end up, repeat etc etc, same result.
Filed the brake pad edges, same result. Tried a different brand of "disc quiet"- same result. Lubricated the pad retaining pins - 10 minutes of bliss, then the small bald patch starting to appear above my right ear started to get larger.

Turns out it was the stub axles! Almost imperceptible wear on the axles was causing wheel play in the vertical axis. Tightening the bearings did the trick for a few miles only.

30 years on the OE axles took it's toll. Manual recommends replacement of stub axles (100,000 miles?-I think). LBC has them at a good price - certainly cheaper than hair replacement!

Now happy
Roger





Roger H

If I were going to chamfer the edges of brake pads, I'd try not to do it all the way around. The front and rear edges should be the only offenders, and the top and bottom would be reducing the area for no gain IMHO. This would also cause the discs to wear more in the middle of the pad contact area, not necessarily a good thing. Probably picking nits here, sorry.

The last pads I put on my Caravan had chamfers, old ones didn't. The brakes should work better as they get more worn and the contact area increases. I didn't notice any more braking force required by the smaller contact patch of the chamfered pads. Don't really know why they made 'em like that never had a squealing problem with this vehicle. Maybe standard now to save comebacks.
Tom

This thread was discussed between 24/04/2004 and 29/04/2004

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