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Triumph TR6 - nasty pins

Can anyone help me get those nasty little pins back in my window winder handle and lock release (trivial I know, but I've run out of proper jobs to do!).
Aidan Dearsley

Aidan,
Buy a rod of proper thickness steel and score a piece to the proper length (ie: use snips or crimps to almost go thru it) Jam it into the hole and then bend it until it breaks. This technique more or less quoted comes from advice given to me on this bbs almost 2 years ago. It took me 45min. to replace 1 then 20min to do the remaining 3. I hope I have described it adequately if I have left something out I am sure someone will join in.
Regards,
Keith
Keith Dixon

Spring roll pins in the proper size and length work as original. I think they are 1/8th for that aplication? Just take a drill bit and check. Then measure across handle stub for length. Good pin punch for that size works best but can be done with pliers for insertion.

If your pins are sloppy due to wear. Handle only flops around rattles carefull drilling out to the next size roll pin is a good cure. Heres a site for roll pin sizes and suggested drilled hole. Make sure the pin is easily available before you drill?

http://www.engineersedge.com/roll_pin.htm

Bill
Bill Brayford

Thanks for that, Keith and Bill, I knew you fellas would know the answer.
Aid.
Aidan Dearsley

I had the same hassle. Bought a pair of hemostats from a medical supple store. They are thin and lock down tight on the pin.
Mike Parkhill

Aidan, I spent over an hour on one of those a couple of months ago and was so smug when I thought I had it in. 2 days later, I found the pin on the garage floor--I hadn't managed to get it in.

So far, I just push that one window handle back on when it falls off, but I need to try the steel trick.

Can you get the steel at a Home Depot or Lowe's?

John
JL Bryan

also called 'roll pins' John. You'll likely find them at your local Home Depot under that name.

hth,

Jim
Jim Deatsch

I usually just use needle nose pliers to put the pins back in. The plastic shield/ring piece (can't think of its name right now) is supposed to keep the pin in place. The main thing is to compress the shield and spring against the door so you can see the crank hole to put the pin in.
Also, it helps to have the crank hole aligned with the hole in the shaft (it is all to easy to spend a lot of time trying to insert the pin and then find that you are 90 degress off - not that I have any personal experience with this!)

R.C. Blair

Aidan, I found the method described by Keith Dixon the best, any old nail the same dia as the pin will do, cut it through 3/4 with a junior hacksaw at the right length and break it off once it's installed, you'll do all four in 10mins that way.
Ron
R. Algie

I can not tell a lie I got this tip right here from Berry (albany). It worked great for me I still have a length of rod here to use when needed. He said it was on the 6-pack site as well as in a Moss newsletter. Home Depot for me I think diameter is 3/16 length about 9/16 cut thru about a third jam it in and break it off.
Regards,
Keith
Keith Dixon

Make that 1/8 inch diameter.
Keith
Keith Dixon

Make that Berry of Albany,Oregon I think.
Keith Dixon

Aidan
I used the Bob (RC) routine except for one exception. I asked the wife for help.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

I'm betting my wife could put the regular pin in, if I could get her interested. She's really good with stuff like that!

John
JL Bryan

If any of you ladies realy want to show off to the he-man mechanics.

Take a look at this for $34.95 each? Production grade of course.

http://www.bmmachine.com/bmmachine/rollpin.htm

If any have not bought a screw driver magnetizer 3 bucks or less get one. Little square block earth magnet with hole. Held together with rubber bands. Slide screwdriver or rod wire whatever through hole.

Magnetise suitable stiff wire. That will fit inside and through handle hole to align Kieth supplied measured diameter 1/8 roll pin. Not to thick to bind inside when driven home. Make a driver slide out of whatevers handy. Old brake tube? Rap it in. Easy one lady deal.

Reason most use a roll pin is they fill the crank hole without shocking it and widening it each time turned. A bit of rod or a nail will enlarge the holes and rattle?

Now think about it. Make this for him and go shopping with his money..:)

Or snuggle up in a TR door opening. Romantic eh? Looking at the average age of owners your likely to have a better time shopping?

Bill
Bill Brayford

Keith-Thanks for the recognition and I applaud your memory or use of the archieves. I believe it was about 2 years ago when you had a problem with the pins. Part of the entertainment of British cars is creating solutions to the frustrating problems we encounter. Pity the poor Miata owners, what can they do with their cars besides drive them?
Bill-I will put the idea of the roll pin driver in my mental file, but will probably make one, if necessary.
Berry Price
Albany, Or
BTP Price

Berry
Dangerious place to put a file...usually gets lost up there with old ----s :)
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Berry, I had to search the archives to find out where the info had come from. But as with most of my good advice on this board it is usually borrowed from somewhere, so give credit where due. I usually find myself using 2 hands and 1 knee when I replace those damn things. Happy to hear that John is having problems with his window down there in FLA. better fix it before the rainy season sets in. I drove around all summer the same way when the knob broke off.

Regards,
Keith
Keith Dixon

I've used a pair of curved needle nosed pliers to hold the pin in the first knob section (between the handle bearing and the knob) while pushing the knob on the metal end and compressing the spring. Push the the knob in, then with the pliers push the pin 'till it gets a bite in the hole, then release the pliers and push the pin in by hand with a screwdriver blade. That seems to be MUCH easier than getting those @#* clips in the door to engage.

BB
Brent B

This thread was discussed between 08/03/2004 and 10/03/2004

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