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TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Need a LF Inner Wing

Need to replace my LF inner wing. Anyone have an extra they'd really like to get out of their way? Body shop labor rate tradeoff for new part argues for new part rather than straightening a few creases and wrinkles resulting from a DPO's error and poor repair. email: douglas.r.bakerATsaicDOTcom.
db
Doug Baker

Doug,

I went over to Google and typed in 'parting out TR6' and got a couple of "hit's". I'm sure you could narrow the search to your area. The inner fender would have to be cut out right? Could be a little difficult to get someone to do that though.

Check these out anyway.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t120065.html

http://motorsportsmarket.com/pages_new/parts.asp


Good luck
Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Doug,
Email me....
Rod
Rod Nichols

Thanks Henry. Tried the guy, but the email bounced. In box must be full:) Rod you have mail.
db
Doug Baker

Doug
You have been collecting all the little bits and pieces. You are deffinitely doing the restoration the right way. Time to get her together. Any luck on a NEW body/paint guy?
Rick
Rick Crawford

Hey Rick,
Good to hear from you. I had a guy look at the job on Wen. Taking the outer wings, bonnet, boot etc. to him tomorrow. A soda blast guy is set up not too far away to the prep. Still discussing paint. This guy wants to do polyurathane and suggested that the interior not get the same top coats as the outside, like acrylic enamel in the boot. Don't know about that. Gotta think about it. Anyway the deal is to soda blast the tub and peripherals, etch prime, fill prime, then color block sand smooth. Got three holes to fill, the battery try, bought one from TRF, but I'm thinking of just using a part of it since it did not come with battery hold downs; the drivers's pan which I guess I'll buy but only use about the front 1/3 of to weld in and then a couple of small holes in the boot for which I guess the guy will butt weld new metal.

We'll see how this goes. Stay tuned.
db
Doug Baker


Doug,

I had mine done in polyurathane and it turned perfect.

From what I learned from the painter there are a couple of polyurathane methods...two stage and single stage. In two stage the base color goes on followed by the clear coat. Single stage is basically the clear and color mixed so it sprays on once. You probably already knew this but I'm wondering if your painter is talking about using single stage on the interior and boot? Or is he talking about using just base coat? I know most base coats don't look very nice without some clear.

Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Doug
Make sure that you get multiple clear cotes so the car can be sanded down and buffed. This will give you a "flat" mirror finish not a orange peal look.
Rick Crawford

Henry,
I think that the guy has actually suggested a different paint for the boot and interior...acrylic enamel vs polyurathane. Since the boot'll be covered (the floor and side panels), he thought that it might be less expensive and not need clear coating.

Rick, we dicussed buffing and that's in the mix.
db
Doug Baker


Ahh yes...that makes sense. That paint is expensive. Seems like a good idea since the interior paint doesn't need to be perfect like the exterior. A little orange peel in the boot area wouldn't be a big deal.

HP
HP Henry Patterson

Hi Doug Check EBay theres a left and right inner front fender up for auction as of today Regards John
John O'Meara

John,
Thanks.
db
Doug Baker

This thread was discussed between 10/11/2005 and 17/11/2005

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