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Triumph TR6 - New + Questions

Hello, new to this forum and Triumph motor car ownership. I just picked up a 1974 TR6 last night that hasn't run in over 8 years. I sold my 1979 Triumph Bonneville to get her. I'm a previous RWA Midget owner and have an 86 Jaguar XJS 5.3 liter. I know about the archive but thought I'd say hello and ask a couple of initial Q's. I used to use 20/50 in my MG and I'm assuming thats the standard for the TR + what do you recommend for the gear case? I'm sure to have ton's more Q's in the near future. Thanks all
JTsmks

I use 20w50 in mine but others do use other weights to control oil pressure.

With 20W50 and engine hot I get 50 psi at 2500-3000 rpm and around 25 psi at 1500 rpm. (Right in the spec)

Let us know your first name. Can't guess from the post.



Regards
Mike Petryschuk
Michael Petryschuk

J
I use CASTROL 20W30. Most use a heavier weight (20/50). My oil pressure is high so I stick to a lighter weight.
There are many post on the use of ZDDP as an additive to new oils. This should be considered.
Synthetic oil is your choice. IMHO we pamper our cars and syn oil is a waste of money. My oil and filter is changed virtually every 2000 miles.
I do a quote form Roger from down under in an old post back in 2004. Covers what to put in your tranny.

"Roger H, Western Australia, Australia
A quote from the Redline site may answer your question:

"GEAR AND SYNCHRONIZER WEAR PROTECTION
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant. GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions
because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5."

One thing to remembere is you do not use a synthetic oil in your tranny.

Rick

PS what does J stand for?

Rick Crawford

Rick, I'm interested in your comment about synthetics in the tranny. When I changed the fluid in mine a couple of years ago, the only GL-4 I could find was Redline, which, as I recall, is a synthetic. I found that the shifts were smoother, and the tranny a lot quieter. Are you thinking there could be long-term issues?

Tony
A. J. Koschinsky

J- A response from a TR3 owner on another forum about the tranny oil.

"As I'm sure you've noticed, there is no clear consensus on this topic. As I see it, almost any of the suggestions will work reasonably well, particularly if you don't drive the car hard.

My personal preference is for Redline MT-90. This is a full synthetic, GL-4 oil that has been specifically optimized for synchronized manual gearboxes, and does not contain the "active sulfur" additive that can attack yellow metal components over time."
DON KELLY

Thanks for the inputs...all appreciated. I'm Jim but most people who know me call me JT so I figured that would be simple enough to decipher. As an avid British Bike nut and ex owner of an MG and several Jaguars I'm no slouch when it comes to British engineering in respect to an automobile or motorcycle. I know about the bronze issue with respect to gear lubes and some MG guys/gals run 20/50 in their manuals (I'm pretty sure I did) This car hasn't run in 9 years so I'm getting ready to embark on a lengthy processes of ensureing all systems are go before even attempting a start of any sorts. I'm sure to be quite the pest in the future with technical questions. Thanks all once again.
JT White

First question to me is whether or not the car has OD. If it has OD, I would think in terms of either a non-detergent racing oil in 20W50 or a straight 30 wt.

If it's not an OD tranny, a dino GL4 would do, but they can be hard to find. If you go the synth route, a friend used Redline MT but I'd probably lean toward the Motorcraft full synthetic transmission fluid under part number XT-M5-QS. It was developed for some Ford cars that were fitted with a rather notchy German gearbox. It's also a big hit with the Miata crowd for their six speed boxes which also tend to be notchy. I use it in our Miata, good stuff. If you decide to try it, take the part number with you and make sure they don't try and tell the differential smutz is the same stuff. Retail is about $19/qt, you might be able to find it for less, I have a local source where it's about ~$14.

Rick, Rick , Rick, speeding on I-75 thru Mayretta and missing the Big Chicken. Maybe next time.....
SteveP1

The car came with an O/D "J" type out of the car but has a 4sp non-O/D in the car.
JT White

Tony
Comments from the past say that there is a possibility of the tranny popping out of gear on rapid deceleration....this comes from a guy that raced TRs. Now I do not suppose we drive them as hard during daily driving so probably not an issue.
Tony, Don K says that Redlines synthetic GL-4 does not contain chemicals that destroy (eat) yellow metals so go ahead and use it. I bought a Jug of GL-4 from NAPA (I think) a few years ago so possibly still available.

Steve
At 80, everything is a blur...and I am not talking my age Don.

JT
If you can, put the OD back in. It makes a LOT of difference at speed. Engine RPM is obviously lower and does not make you feel like you are running the engine hard.

Rick
Rick Crawford

JT , Put in a 5 speed then you'll have the best of both worlds and it won't leave it's shadow when you drive away
DON KELLY

Whoa, I've got to get it running first before I even consider shifting gears...one step at a time.
JT White

Sorry JT. We all assumed that it being a TR6, getting it going, would not be a problem.

Rick
Rick Crawford

Someone come tell my car that! Still no joy starting. It's nice and shiney though! ; )
JT White

Started today...t'was the coil. Now if I only get her to idle...one step at a time!
JT White

Hi JT

Took me 6 or 8 hours to get the timing and carbs adjusted so the idle wouldn't hunt (speed up slow down speed up slow down etc.) after rebuilding the engine and carbs. Its a back and forth process. Adjust timing, adjust carbs , go back to timing, adjust carbs etc etc. You will need to be patient. Once I got it tuned right it has run great for 4 years now.

It runs better now then it did in the 70s when it was on the road.

Have fun with it.

Mike
Michael Petryschuk

I just purchase a Gal. of Sta-lube gear oil 85W90 GL-4 from Napa this past week.
I paid $35.00 if I remember correctly.
Dennis Silance

This thread was discussed between 03/03/2010 and 13/03/2010

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