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Triumph TR6 - new finish for facia

I am restoring the interior of my TR6 en have taken out the dashboard/facia and applied new wood veneer. I decided to take "Maradona" veneer.
Can someone advise me on how to get a high gloss finish. Do I have to spray the varnis or is it better to apply this with a brush. Do I need to polish etc.etc. Having gone through a lengthy proces to get the veneer right, I do not want to mess-up with the varnis finish.
Would appriciate to learn from your experiences. Specialized links are also welcom.
Kind regards,
Erik
E. Creyghton

First off, the TR6 never had a high gloss finish, the TR4 did though. It was considered "dangerous" by the feds to have a shiney interior incase it 'blinds the driver' when driving on a sunny day. TR5 to TR6 had a flat luster finish.

To achieve a good finish the best is to apply the varnish/varathene in a dust free environment. Failing that wet down the immediate area where you are going to varnish cut down in possible dust contamination. Some general rules to ensure a good finish:

1. stir the varish, do not shake (opposite what James Bond wants) Shaking makes too many bubbles.

2. use a foam brush, do not use a bristle brush...again cuts down in the bubbles.

3. Affix a paper tent over the area where you are going to apply the varnish This stops airborne dust from settling on the sticky surface.

4. Sand in between coats with very fine sandpaper 320 grit up. use a damp cloth to clean off.

Hope this helps
Steven

Erik
Further to Stevens advice.
I am not sure what "Maradona" veneer is but if it is a naturally oilly wood you will need to prep trhe wood after sanding using denatured alcohol. Avoid touching the wood after sanding so as not to put oil from your fingers back onto the wood.
Pour the amount of varnish you will need for one application through a fine mesh paint strainer into a clean plastic container...gets rid of any contaminents in the varnish. Your first coat should not be at full strength. Cut the varnish 50/50 with good quality varnish thinner and after that coat slowly work up to 100% varnish ( 70/30,,,80/20,,,,90/10) . I used a plastic painters "drop sheet" as a tent over the dash for the air born dust. I also sprayed the air with a water mist and sprayed the work area around the tent to help reduce dust. I wore very little clothing while varnishing..I know sounds wierd but clothing gives off dust and lint which always finds its way to the varnish. You will obviously be sanding between coats..so let it dry for at least 48 hours before sanding. Your last 3 sandings ( or all if you want)will be with wet sandpaper...rinse off the wood thoroughly let dry and then use a "tack" rag just before you do the next coat. You will be up around 400 to 600 grit sandpaper.
I would line the holes for the gauges with masking tape as you will end up with a build up of varnish in the holes and you will have to remove it to get the gauges in. Remove the glove box door so that you can do the edges. Obviously the glove box door will have to be done in stages as you really can only do one side at a time. Do the outside first because it is a Bee to get a nice clean finish at a " join" in the varnish.
Finally you have the best varnish in the world made right where you live. EPIFANE is the BEST varnish money can buy and yes it is not cheap. It is a little more difficult to apply than normal spar varnish but the results and difference is dramatic. The difficulty in application is that you have to get use to NOT going back over it many times...IT WILL "float" to a flat finish. For all of us in North America EPIFANE is only found in a boating store.
One final statement...LONG LIVE HIGH GLOSS!
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Hi Erik

I like the high luster myself even though original in North America was low luster. If the wood you are refering to is Madrone burl possible difference in spelling between 2 languages. Nice choice. Nice wood and expensive. I think some Classic Jag Dashes used it. And lots of rich boats. Boat sights are the best to look at for finishing.

The only tip I can suggest is because the car is subject to weather make sure to coat and seal the back and edges first. Including the holes. Then fine sand any drips after dry on main panel. Sometimes the gauges and switches are a snug fit so make sure they will go in after sealing before starting on main face.

For the best finishing products especialy for dampness and sun. I would go to a marine center or supply. They will have the best products and most will come with application and mixing info. best for there products just like car paint.

Depending on the product and your equipment for spraying. Foam brush as per Steven or spray with fine sanding is up to you and the product manufacturer you choose.

Steven my TR250 was high luster to and it was much nicer than the 6. As far as the feds go thats about as clear thinking as that aproved navigator screen at foot level in my Daughters SUV. Gotta love safety improvements.:)

Should come out great Eric if you can E-mail me a photo when you finish.

Good luck
Bill



Bill Brayford

Yikes - I HATED the results from the foam brush when I did mine. For some reason it gave me too many bubbles.

Procedure: Stripped the old finish, repaired the separated veneer with urethane glue & vises, sanded with 600 grit, hit it with a tack cloth, then applied a satin urethane varnish with a good brush.

There would ALWAYS be some dust particles to muck things up, so the 600 grit came back out and I tried another coat. After 5-6 coats I decided it wasn't going to work, and sanded it down again. Then wetsanded with 800 grit. Of course, that finish was smooth, but not too pretty. But here's the secret - follow that with good funiture wax (I used Minwax paste). The results will please you - a low gloss finish that really looks good. Wax it every spring and you're set all year.
Brent B

Thank you all for your helpful advises.
Bill of course you are right the wood veneer is "Madrone". I was lucky to get it from a ships carpenter on a shipyard it was a left over from a custom build yacht for an Arabic oil sheik . I will be happy to mail you a photo when ready.

I do like the high gloss finish and do not believe there is legislation in the Netherlands what should prohibit this.

Most certainly I will look for the brand name EPIFANE selecting a varnish.
In view of the difficulties I might encounter I will have to get the needed dust free measures in place and move for a trial job first before to start on the new veneered facia..
Thanks again
Erik
E. Creyghton

Erik
A consideration for you. Take the dash to a boat refinisher. Try to find one that does older WOOD boat restorations. It might cost u a little more but it will look a lot better than you or I could do...lets face it...that is their job. This is a once in a life time job. EPIFANE has UV protection in it.
I agree with the rest...the dash was low gloss from the factory. It looks so much "richer" in high gloss especially considering the wood u have. I would not give it a second thought about it being legal or not.
Yes I would like to see a pic also.
Go to http://patriot.net/~gakona/index.html and follow the link to other stuff. There u will see that Greg has a beautiful dash. You will also notice he has done some other intersting mods to the car:)
Rick C
Rick Crawford

I will have a chat with the shipyard to see if they can help me with a dust-free job on the dash varnish. In view of all my work I do not want to mess-up now.
Rick, I will post you the result.
Erik
E. Creyghton

This thread was discussed between 25/02/2003 and 27/02/2003

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