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Triumph TR6 - No guts no power any ideas?

Hi

I am taking the rest of the week and going camping but thought I would post this in the hopes by the time I get back on the weekend some ideas to find the problem will have been posted.

On the weekend taking a drive in the 6, I have lost power. In first it can get up to 4000 rpm but it seems to struggle at that speed and in all other gears, it accelerates very slowly and once in 4th overdrive, I can barely get it up to 3200 rpm floored.

Any ideas on what has happened to cause that? It was running fine when I started the trip.

thanks for any thoughts. Have a great week.
Michael Petryschuk

Michael, lots of "potential causes" come to mind, but all about fuel supply and carburetion. Might you have holes in your diaphrams?? Or a vaccum leak somewhere?
db
Doug Baker

Sucked some junk from the tank into the fuel filter? An easy swap out and possible fix. If not, a process of elimination step checked off.
Ken Shaddock

I checked archives Mike and see that Brent B in Memphis had a similar problem arise (in 2011) so he tried using thinner oil in his dashpots. It solved the problem. Another member chimed in that he used ATF in his dp's.
Ken Shaddock

Do you have no-lead heads? Non-seating or leaking old valve seats will drop power.
JT White

It seems from Michael's post that the loss of power came on suddenly. That has happened to me twice. The first time was a cracked diaphragm, so I always carry a new one in the trunk as a talisman against a repeat performance. The second time was some gorp in the float chamber blocking fuel from the main jet, likely the result of the car having sat for a while with old fuel. Either way, the car ran on one carb, just not very well.

Tony
A. J. Koschinsky

Thank you for your posts. I will be checking it out. I suspect diaphram or blocked fuel on one of the carbs.
Michael Petryschuk

Well it seems to be the diaphrams. Both front and back carbs have 3-5 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch tears and the rear carb has a 1.5 inch tear along the seam where it seals with the upper cover. I was surprised about the rear carb as the front carb seemed to have less resistance to motion when I tested it and I assumed it had the worse tear. We will see if new ones fix the problem.

I am disappointed though. The diaphrams were new when I rebuilt the car in 2005 and I have 20000 miles on it since. I seem to recall that the old ones I took out had no tears and I believe were original with 30000 or more miles on them.
Michael Petryschuk

Hello, maybe the diaphragms you have installed are not compatible with unleaded fuel, that's why they didn't last. I never had this problem with mine as I've bought it already done up for unleaded fuel. These CD carbs though are very inefficient and it's worth looking into a weber conversion.
Kypros Christodoulides

Michael-The quality of aftermarket parts might vary (I have noticed that the diaphragms from BPNW are much thicker than the originals) and ethanol in the gas might be a factor, but I think that 7 years for a diaphragm is actually quite a long life. I used to count myself lucky if I got 3 years out of them. Just storing the car for a few months seems to take its toll on rubber parts-o rings shrink and leaks magically appear.
Berry
BTP Price

Diaphrams replaced. Power back. Thanks for your help.

I have switched to 5W20 oil in the damper well vs. 20W50 that I have used since the car was rebuilt. I want to see if I can detect any difference.
Michael Petryschuk

Lots of etonal free pumps in 89+ octane popping up...there is one down the street I use to fill my XJS and TR6 as well as my lawn gear. I refuse to run ethonal gas as long as there is an option ava.

http://pure-gas.org/
JT White

It states in Canada all Shell V-Power 91 is ethonal free.....fill'r up!
JT White

This thread was discussed between 28/08/2012 and 08/09/2012

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