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Triumph TR6 - Oil flow to remote filter

I installed a remote oil filter when I rebuilt the motor last year. Car has been run a bit every couple of weeks while I wait for the paint shop to call. I have good oil pressure 100 PSI at first and then down to about 60 when warm. I have a remote head oil feed and I know there is some controversy about it but I have all new valve train and it seems like a good idea to try. I can't resist trying new things. The problem is that the hoses for the oil filter and the filter never get warm which leads me to believe that the oil is not flowing to the filter. I have disassembled the hoses and the connection to the block and see no reason for the oil not to flow. Could there be air in the lines and this is preventing flow? I always fill the oil filter with new oil before installing. Bad oil pump but if so why the good oil pressure? Wrong oil filter? It is a Fram I can't rember the number but I got it from this list. I am 99 % sure I do not have the hoses mixed up and connected backwards. I admit I did not look to check but I was very careful about this when I installed the filter. Any ideas?
Dick
Richard Porter

Hi Dick,
Have you tried disc one hose at a time and using a pail or rag crank the engine for 30 secs...oil should flow out.
Maybe the hoses are insulated really well so it takes a good long run to warm them up ?
Charlie
Charlie

Charlie
Good idea. I am afraid of the mess but I may just have to try. I did plan to just crack open the incoming hose to minimize the mess and crank away to see what happens.
Dick (I am a memeber though the heading says not)
Dick Porter

Well I took off the filter and put a bucket under it and cranked away. Oil flowed like water. Thanks for pointing out the obvious Charlie. Once again my paranoia got the best of me.
Dick
Dick Porter

Hi Dick; Sounds like your problem is solved, but I would think that the filter should still get warm. Can you let me know the Fram part # ? To run a remote filter, you must have used a block-off on the existing system. I am just wondering about bipass pressures. Are you running an oil cooler? Better to be double sure with a new rebuild. Don't want an oops! Brian
B. Towne


Brian
Fram PH3600 with standard aftermarket block and remote adapters. I agree that the lack of heat makes me nervous. I next will losen the hose bringing the oil back to the block to see if it is flowing. I wondered about bypass pressure too but the filter is one of the recommended ones. No oil cooler. You are right, I do not want an oops even an obvious one. I appreciate all the help from you guys in Canada. I once took the Via from Toronto to BC. Your county is beautiful.
Dick
Dick Porter

Hi Dick

Not sure how your running your tests but first off oil will not heat up anywhere near as much as water and even less than coolant in an engine. After an average run about town you can pull the dipstick and wipe off the oil with bare fingers and only find it warm on most cars. Some with aluminum heads/blocks have different oil passages and oil does run hotter by design.

If your testing at idle with a good running engine minimal blow by and added external filter and upper oil feed icreasing flow and reducing time oil spends in the head. I doubt you will get the oil up to luke warm. Oil is not staying in the head long enough to heat in the older blocks nor in the filter with the additions. Never was designed as a coolant. Add external filter insulated from block temp by sealing rings. 1/8th? wall pressure hose fan blowing back on filter etc. etc..

Pull your dipstick and feel the oil. Then take into consideration it does not transfer heat well even to the filter?

Bill

Bill Brayford

Bill
Interesting, I never thought about oil temperature per se. Engines get hot and cars have oil coolers so I thought it must get pretty warm. My MGB in college had an oil cooler but perhaps it really was not needed. I bet luke warm is about right, my car is as you described. Thanks
Dick
Dick Porter

This thread was discussed between 07/06/2004 and 11/06/2004

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