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Triumph TR6 - park lights on

Well after replacing my ammeter and fixing my oil pressure tube I have put back the dash. The electrical bugs are now showing up. I got everything working but when I turn the key off and take it out the park lights are still on. They do not want to go off. I have to disconnect the battery. When I connect they are on without key in. Head lights turn signals all work, Hazard switch does not. I don't think that is the problem because they are not on the same curcuit. Any ideas??
G Batt

You need to start disconnection parts to that and trace it to the fault
DON KELLY

Difficult to say G but I would suspect your headlight switch. It is powered from the battery direst and if faulty (or connected wrong) may allow the parking light to be on all the time. I assume that when the key is on - the park lights are on as well regardless of position of the headlight switch.

If not the switch, then you have to go the route of Don and follow the wire
Michael Petryschuk

Guys, do the lights work by grounding out?
DON KELLY

I think I had the same issue once, discovered I plugged a wire into the wrong terminal on the switch. You might check that before you do much else.
Rod
Rod Nichols

Found it! the feed wire for the lights was connected to the little tab connection on the ammeter putting power to the lights all the time. the wire that comes from the key that is suppose to be brown/white is now red and was in the rhostad. Switched these and lights out. now when I turn on key the lights go on (not head light) even when steering column arm switch is in up position.. Still something amiss. Next step is to check the seven wires coming out of the key ignition.
G Batt

I am working on a schematic I got for the dash wiring. It has every connection to the dash with colour coding and shows which gauge and which light socket every connection goes to. It is not quite done but will post when it is done so all can add it to CDII.
G if you send me an e-mail address I will send back the rough draft...looks like you could use it.
rjcassocAT@lynxDOT.org remove the upercase letters
Rick

PS G we tend to be on first name bases here.
Rick Crawford

Don't see any upper case letters
DON KELLY

Talk about bein' fussy OK SO reMove thE at aND the dot LOWER CAse LeTTTERs.

Thanks for pointing out my error Don.

Rick
Rick Crawford

Rick,
You know that Don would have made a great corporal for Napoleon!
db
Doug Baker

tried to send you an email but it bounced back. Iam with DoN I don't see any? Can you post the adress again thanks.
Here is the email I sent.
Thanks for the offer. The red wire that goes into the rheostat feeds the running lights
and should also feed the rheostat and dash lights, it goes into the harness and I think
to the fuse box. There must be a wire unhooked somewhere between the sterring column
headlight switch arm and this wire.I can not get my dash or running lights on in any
position on that arm but my headlight come on.Iam going to check the fuses again tonight.--
Gary is the name by the way.

G Batt

Gary, if your not particular about stock. I'd get rid of the rheo. Bad juju in that thing
DON KELLY

Found it! After taking apart the steering column I followed then the red/green wire and it changed to a green wire. It then went to the bottomm fuse in the fuse box and there was a loose connection there. Also on another stream, the pins on my ignition key on the column is strange. In the car manual there are two setups. When they show the number position and power routing the pins are setup up differently about four or five pagings on. One has three left and four right and the other 4-l 3-r?? When I test power, key out there is power to bottom right two and top left two, position 1 on change and position 2 -all except bottom left have power. position 3 bottom left (starter) power. I have my ammeter and lights on bottom right, double white to dash lights (oil/pressure) and a green? on top right, red going into wire harness top left, and White/red in bottom left. Question should my double white be in top left or top right and I think that position 5 (top left) should not have power until position 1. Got that??/
Any ideas.
Gary
G Batt

OK let me spell it out.

remove the "at" and the "dot"
rjcassocAT@lynxDOT.org
Does that help?
Gary, no one wants to post real e-mail addresses because of bots that look for e-maill addresses to steal.

in any event.
"The red wire that goes into the rheostat feeds the running lights
and should also feed the rheostat and dash lights"
Glad you found the problem. There is a little problem with your quoted statement. It kinda answers your question unless you really do want your running lights dimable:)
What car manual are you refering to? Is it the Bently or the Haynes manual?

The offer still stands Gary.

Rick
Rick Crawford

Rick , do we really need to worry about that kind of thing still. Doesn't seem as prevalent lately. Maybe the better spam filters
DON KELLY

This thread was discussed between 12/04/2011 and 19/04/2011

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