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Triumph TR6 - Pertronix Ignitor Ignition

Happy Easter Folks:

Hate to be obtuse (referred to as "stunned" in Newfoundland)but I'm having a problem figuring out my new Pertronix. I don't mind experimenting with most new bits but this ignition system was a bit pricey so I don't want to mess it up. The instructions indicate two applications; one with a primary ballast resistor and the other without. Without ballast resistor you just attach the red wire to the positive coil post and the black to the negative. I have a blue coil with an external resistor (at least that's what it appears to be as it's mounted next to the coil on the coil bracket). The instructions say to connect the red positive wire on the Pertronix module to the "ignition" side of the resistor if so equipped. However, there is only one wire from the resistor module to the coil so how could you hook it up any other way? It would appear that you just attach the red wire to the positive coil post along with the resistor. My car is a '76 with a '74 distributor as my original dizz ate some spare, loose parts. It is a 22D model as far as I can tell. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I notice that Pertronix says I can buy a 40,00 volt Flame-Thrower coil, which is compatible with the "Ignitor". Does that mean I do not need an external resistor? What should I be looking at here? Thanks.

Cheers,
Bob
'76 - 6
Bob Evans

DAJA VU ALL OVER AGAIN
DON KELLY

Bob,

Just finished installing my Pertronix on my 74 TR6 together with a new "flame thrower" coil. Installation went easy and the ignition timing is steady as a rock on any revolution.

My 74-6 is equipped with a load resistor being part of the wiring harness. The positive of the coil has two wires attached. A positive through the resistor and a second life wire hot, only during starting operations, operated through the ignition key. In fact the ignition key controlled second wire will short circuit the load resistor during starting operations supplying full 12+ volts to the coil.

To install the Pertronix you run a new wire from the fuse box. I took the bottom fuse in the green circuit because this one is switched on/off by the ignition key. This wire connects to the red wire of the Pertronix.
The Pertronix black wire runs to the negative post of the coil.
The positive of the coil remains connected with the original two wires.

Have fun,
Erik
Erik Creyghton

Thanks Erik:

I'm not very good on electrical. The external resistor, attached to the coil bracket, has one wire back to the positive coil post. The second wire on the positive coil post is from the distributor. According to what I believe you are saying, I'll have to add a lead to the fuse box. I'd then have 3 wires to the positive post. I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow. It would appear that the Pertronix instructions are not that precise. Should I just attach the red wire from the Hall sensor to the positive coil post. I looked at the other threads in the archives and did not see what I was looking for but may have missed something. Will keep looking. Jeez Don, all caps?????????

Cheers,
Bob
'76 - 6

Bob Evans

Bob,

The ballast resistor is within your wiring harness. The little round dohickey (technical term) you see attached to the coil bracket is simply a whatchamacallit to reduce radio interference from the ignition system. This is not the resistor.

I have a '74 and have the Pertronix red wire run to the fusebox. If you search in the archives, there's tons (metric) of posts on Pertronix. I know this because I posed the same questions to the group.

Should take you about five minutes to get the thing hooked up. Just be sure you have things done correctly under the cap or your investment wil be ripped to shreds.

Regards,

Don from Jersey
D Hasara

Don:

Now it's clear - the resistor is in the harness! No problem. Thanks.

Bob
Bob Evans

I just installed Pertronix ignition and coil. All modifications should be so easy!
Before I put the timing light on it thought I'd ask if anyone using Pertronix was tweaking the timing from original recommended setting?
I'm also about to buy new plugs and change to platinum. Any comments or recommended gap?
thanks!
Ian.
Ian Marlatt

What pertronix unit are you refering to? I am confused (whats new) by this thread in that I put pertronix electronic ignition in and there was no need to run a lead to the fuses box. Are you talking about second strike electronic ignition?

thanks'
bob
Bob Craske

Don
Ya goota love that "ballast vs non ballast ignition system"...what a hoot.
Yup At least a (metric) ton on this subject.

Bob E. the subject is also covered in the CD. Also in the schematics you will see where your friendly TR builder hid the ballast resistor in your wiring system. It is up under the dash.
MAN am I glad I do not have a ballast resistor!
Just to make it interesting Bob E, make sure you buy a HO coil that is for a Ballasted system.

Bob C do not ask...just be happy it works:)

Rick C
Rick Crawford

Thought I'd ask...

I'd like to bypass the ballast resistor and go with the sport coil. Does this simply involve running new from the switch fusebox to the coil? It seems like all I'd need to do it this and somehow cap the two existing wires running to the coil. Is it that easy?

Don
D Hasara

Rick:

Thanks Rick. Jeez I sure didn't mean to start all that up again but it is a pretty interesting topic and difficult if you are under an incorrect assumption as I was til Don H. set me on the right track. The only problem I found was that after finding a nice free lead on the fuse block (under the white/green striped wire) I found that I need to change the coil as mine had the screw posts and the Ignitor ignition has the spade connector and I'll need to change the neg connectors over also to fit the new coil.I needed a new coil anyway! Now, how did Bob C in a '76 bypass the fuse box? Not that I'm gonna try.

Cheers,
Bob
Bob Evans

Bob E

I just followed the instructions for the pertronix electronic ignition, its just a replacement for the old points...it uses one black and one red, both running to the coil directly...i think we are talking about different petronix products, the second strike looks like it requires a fused connection//
Bob Craske

Bob C
Interesting....yours should not be working the way you installed it. Was your wiring harness renewed during your restore to an older version harness? You might find that you only have 6-9 Volts at your coil when the engine is running.
There is only one version of the Pertronix for our cars.

Bob E, I agree on the confusing thing. Like I said ..glad I do not have that D@%& resistor. Part of the problem is that the Pertronix instructions show the resistor as something you are going to see as soon as you open the bonnet. Well not for '74 and new TR6s. Then you add "The little round dohickey" thingamajigs and adds to the confusion.

It appears that in a nut shell:
1: Pre ballast resistor (before '74) is simple. Pertronix Red to + coil... Pertronix Black to - coil. Done.

2: With ballast resistor..As Erik says above.NOTE!! this MUST be an ignition switched fuse otherwise you will have constant power to the ignitor. STRONGER NOTE!! I would attach the red wire of the ignitor to the White wire side of the fuse not the Green. The green side is fused and should that fuse blow..well you will think someone just turned the ignition off. Simply, the ignition system should not be fused. If you look at the '74+ schematics you will see that this is EXACTLY how the Pertronix literature says to do it (Red wire on ignition side of ballast resistor).

For those of you with the TR6 CD Under Procedures/Electricals/Ignition system..there is an article re this subject from good ol' Dan M.
Be aware that the ballast resistor does not necessarily have to be bypassed as there are HO coils designed for ballasted systems.
When I did the CD, I should have added more info for this subject. It DOES seem to come up a lot.

Don H. no need to bypass the resistor there is a HO coil for ballasted systems. See Erik's post above.
Finally, your plugs must have a greater gap (.030 to .040) to take advantage of the EI and an HO coil.
Have fun
Rick C
Rick Crawford

This link may be of some help. Look under Ignition System.

http://www.tr6web.com/Documents/tr6/tr6procedures.html
Mark Hauck

Mark
If you are refering to the Ballast vs Non ballast ignition link..it appears to be gone...but then all the lucky ones with the TR6CD have a copy of this exact procedure from Mr. Masters.
If it is the "Installing A lucas Sport Coil' then do this if you want. It is not necessary though as maybe back in 1998 the Flame thrower coil was not available. This coil is HO and is designed for a ballasted system.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick,

Good point, to move the red wire to the un-fused side. You definitely do not want to stall the engine due to a blown fuse.
I speak from experience, see my separate post.

Erik
Erik Creyghton

This thread was discussed between 27/03/2005 and 03/04/2005

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