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Triumph TR6 - Radiator differences

Can anyone tell me the differences between radiators for various year TR6's? I have a '72 that could use a radiator replacement and have a line on one in another part of the country. However, the person selling it doesn't know what year it is from.

How can I tell the seller what to look for in order to identify what year TR6's their radiator would work in and, obviously, if it will work in mine?

I suppose I could take measurements off of mine but I didn't know if there were other differences not quite so obvious.

Thanks.
scott

Scott-Try using the illustrations in vol. 1 page 141 of the TRF catalog as a reference. Notice that up to 1972 (cc 75000) the top oulet is straight, whereas on the later cars, the outlet makes a 90 deg. bend. Also, the drain tap was eliminated on the later cars. If you are buying a used radiator to replace a leaker, it is a gamble unless it was recored recently. It might be better to have your present rad. recored if it isn't damaged and have a drain tap added, if it doesn't have one.
Berry

Thanks for the info. I forgot about looking in the TRF catalog as it is rather thorough. My radiator took a hit with the fan blade at some point in time and a bunch of the cooling fins are folded over in a circular pattern. The previous owner of the car (which is not currently running) said the radiator worked fine. However, I'm skeptical and thought I might latch on to a decent used one.

Thanks again, Scott
scott

Scott - Ask around at a couple of your local radiator shops for a quote on re-coring your present rad. Add the drain valve and have them use all the other parts from your present rad - assuming they are good.

Then you will know not to pay more for a used one which may be wrong, already leaking, shipping costs, etc.

I had my rad for my TR3A re-cored locally. I had them use an up-graded core which adds an extra row of tubes for cooler operation. That was 10 years ago (55,000 miles) and it's still like new.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
Don Elliott

Thanks for the advice. Do radiator shops typically or can they repair fan damaged cooling fins?
scott

Scott-Amen to what Don said. I have bought used radiators that looked good, but soon developed leaks. The cooling fins are part of the core that is replaced. I had one done about 10 years ago, seems like it cost about $160.
Berry

Scott - "Re-coring" means that your local rad shop will take your rad all apart. They will throw away all the tubing and fins that you say have been squashed by the fan during an impact. Then they will cut a new core from new stock that they would have and re-solder the whole thing back together again.

So you will have a "new" rad made from this new core - with all your original side frames and mounts, top header and bottom section with the same re-fill spout.

It was the new core that I had them put in with an extra row or the tubes for more efficient cooling.

Don Elliott
Don Elliott

Scott
Do yourself a favour and do what Don & Berry say.....recore. If buying a used rad you are getting a 30 year old rad (asuming not recored recently). I had mine done @ $150.00. Looks brand new. Agree with Berry, make sure drain plug at bottom otherwise lower rad hose becomes your drain plug.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Thanks for all of the advice. I was unsure what was included with the re-coring of a radiator. Since the cooling fins get replaced, this definitely sounds like the way to go. My fan-damaged radiator does have the drain plug.

Thanks, again.
scott

This thread was discussed between 10/04/2002 and 11/04/2002

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