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Triumph TR6 - Real Axle Bearing Hub Specs/Reassembly Procedure
I just had both the drive flanges pressed off both of the rear wheel bearing assemblies of my work in progress 1969 TR6 with the intent to install new bearings and oil seals.
I note that my 1974 Haynes manual is strangely quiet on specs or procedure to put them back together. Can anyone point me to or provide some detail so I get the tolerances right the first time.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
|Michael P. the obsessed TR6 rebuilder|
|The information is in the Bentley manual (reprint of Triumph factory manual) sections 64.15.xx. This is not a task typically tackled at home, as a result it has been glossed over in the Haynes manual. The bottom line is that you adjust the end float to .002" by means of the double lock nuts on the back side of the bearing housing and lock ererything in place with the locking tab washers. There is a collapsible spacer in there that will have to be renewed while you are at it. Don't over tighten as you then need another collapsible spacer.|
|My 2 cents worth:|
there are 2 jobs that a backyard mechanic owning a TR6 should not do...rear diff rebuild and rear hub rebuild. It is a very complex job and requires special tools and there is more room for error than success and in the end will cost you more than having a pro do it.
Many on this site, even some who attempted to repair it will say 'DON'T DO IT' it is best to send in to a specialist
|I'll tip a cold one to that!!|
|My two penny'orth. If that bearing shaft fractures due to clumsy fitting the wheel comes off complete with the hub and brake drum, the trailing arm digs into the road and can flip the car over. It's happened here to sevral owners and there are rumours that replacement shafts are not as good as the originals.|
|P H Cobbold|
|Thanks for your input. Sounds like a job not to take lightly. I evaluate my options at this point.|
|I need a clarification. |
I may be wrong, but It seemed like Michael's original question was regarding reassemblage of the driving flange not the hub, do these 'don't touch' comments apply to the driving flange/inner axle also? After all the perilous warnings I just want to be clear.
I'm about half a step away from that effort so it would be good to know if I should seek professional help...
Unless the rear hub has bearing play or noise or other problems I'd leave it undisturbed. Mine have both covered nearly 250 thousand miles without attention and with no problems. They are really robust. But while you're in that area renew all the universal joints (something you get used to!) and grease the sliding splines well. To do this you'll need to unbolt the hub carrier from the trailing arm, but I would not myself dismantle it further. When refittng the hub to the trailing arm make sure you do not overtorque the 6 bolts - the ali threads strip easily. (the torque setting seems very low for the job those bolts do!.)
|P H Cobbold|
|Yes, indeed! Be careful! Those threads will strip very easily!|
|It is a very delicate area, use locktight for the studs and torque the nyloc nuts to 12ft/lbs. If you are doing the service on the half shafts, it is a good idea to remove the studs to inspect the threads as there is a corrosion that occures because of the 2 different metals in contact with each other (steel and aluminum)|
It is surprising that 6 small nuts torque basically to finger tight actually does the job.
|Brings a thought to mind about different wheel fitments on the rear. Using bigger wheels, different offsets, or larger tires must have a negative effect on the ability of the hubs to handle torsional loads. Can anyone supply links to the Corvair conversion?|
|There's a small UK firm that does kits for replacing the drive shafts and hubs complete (ready to bolt to diff., trailing arm and wheels) based on a modern Ford shaft I think. Probably a more recent design than Corvair? Can't recall their name right now, but will hunt for it if anyone's interested.|
|P H Cobbold|
Please try and find the information on the newer style, the Corvair stuff is getting kind of hard to find. Out of curiosity, is the set up you reference a u-joint or a CV joint half shaft?
|Rick O. can add that to his to do list.Must be retired or a lotto winner.|
|Hey Don--Just trying to stay on the learning curve with the Corvair inquiry! I've too much to do already.|
|Steve, I think it is a CV joint type of shaft. Its 3 or 4 years since I saw one, so I'm a bit hazy. Will look through mags to try to find them. Doubt they are on the www.|
(apologies for the PH bit! tried to change it to Peter but with no success!)
|P H Cobbold|
|I had thought the the name was Peter, but couldn't remember so played the safe bet with "P H." I asked as I had been looking at some old BMW half shafts that were gathering dust around the shop. Every time I see them, thoughts of adapting them to the TR6 pop into my head. Then I think about all the machining to be done and the though disappears in a puff. You know how it is "Now if drive flanges were machined for the differential and new stub axles made that fitted up to the CV joint pattern," .......puff.|
|Here we are, copied from a posting by Andy Moltu on the TR Register's TR6 Forum:|
"There are a few alternatives for the shafts around-
Revington did/does one with a ballbearing spline alternative (I think)
There is another type which seem to be a beefed up version of the standard type with or without teflon coating on the splines. (Classic Racecraftand I think Cambs Motorsport)
A third type from one of the Stag people uses CV joints to do away with the sliding joint altogether but there have been the reports of breakages in the TRs - particularly the race tuned cars.
As for the Hubs I believe that some of these are modded Ford parts (Cosworth I think) but these are pricey. In your area, Jon Wood at Classic Racecraft may be the nearest to you near Northallerton."
|P H Cobbold|
|David Wingett Is the one to contact about Corvair conversions. email@example.com|
This thread was discussed between 11/01/2003 and 23/01/2003
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