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Triumph TR6 - rear camber
|I own a 72 tr6 and my two brothers also own 6's.Here's the problem,my brother rebuilt his rear suspension using the tube shock conversion(kyb),h.d. springs and prothane bushings.I also did the shock conversion and h.d. springs but I haven't replaced bushings yet.My car sits normal,just as it should,but his looks like an old beetle without the engine.could the problem be with the bushings?Any help will be appreciated regarding this matter.|
|My guess is- if you removed the T.A. bracket you got them on wrong?|
|I don't think he put the T.A. bracket on wrong,we compared it to mine and it looks ok.Could it be that he tightened the bushings while the car was on jack stands?Would that make a difference?Is there a proper procedure?Thanks Don,I have been reading this site for about a year and you seem to know 6's.|
|Erik, double check the brackets first. For arguements sake, lets say it is a later setup with a three notch bracket, notches up on the inner and a one notch, notch up on the outer (the later factory default set up). Using the handy dandy reference table in the Moss catalog, it the notches were still up, but the bracket positions were reversed, there would a devrease in negative camber of about 4 1/4 degrees. With every thing new and with the stiff bushings in place, this decrease in nagative camber could cross over into the realm of positive camber and give it the old swing axle bug look. The camber change is even greater if the earlier 2 (outer) notch and 1 notch (inner) bracket factory default set up is reversed.|
If that doesn't help explain the problem, then it is time for more work. Even if reassembled in the "correct" orientations, the poly bushing will not deflect like the rubber bushings and it is entirely possible that the bracket locations and notch orientations would need to be played with to arrive at the proper camber settings. At that point you need to figure out where you are for a starting point, then using the table in the Moss catalog, select a bracket combination that takes the camber to where it should be.
|Tightening the bushes while the wheels are unloaded sounds to me to be the problem. Try loosening them and rolling the car forward a few feet after taking it off the axle stands/jack - if the cmaber is then OK its not the brackets at fault. Tightening those bolts fully with the wheels fully on the ground is a pig without a pit...|
|Well my bro loosened the bushings as suggested,pushed down on the car,rolled it back and forth,and the car sits alot better now.Thanks for the suggestions,I will continue to read the advice and questions on this site,it is very helpfull.|
|Rebushed (with HD rubber) the trailing arms this weekend, as I figured the 30-year old inserts were shot as evidenced by some rear end steer during sprited shifting. This was not a job for those with little time on their hands. I was amazed at how soft the OEM bushes were compared to the HD ones. The handling improvement was noticed immediately.|
For others out there who haven't gone down this path before, I highly recommend it for at least two reasons: handling and SAFETY. When I removed the inner brackets from the frame, the center sections of all four bolts were badly thinned from corrosion. In my opinion, this was very unsafe as it could lead to detachment of the swing arm. Needless to say, I replaced those four bolts, along with the four from the outer brackets. So check your bolts!
This thread was discussed between 12/07/2002 and 29/07/2002
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