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Triumph TR6 - Rear Wheel Camber
|I just adjusted the trailing arm brackets to get rid of some excess camber, and wanted to say that the updated bracket table at the Buckeye Triumphs site is pretty accurate. The wheels had -2 degrees camber with the "stock" 1u-3u brackets. Switching to 3d-1d brought it out to +0.5 degrees unloaded. With a little settling it will probably go to 0.0.|
It is good to hear that your camber adjustment was a success! I am planning to do this on my 74.5 Tr6 in the next week. So I have a few questions.
1. When you changed the camber on one rear wheel did it alter the camber on the other rear wheel? (in other words to I need to check the camber on the "unchanged side")
2. Was it very hard to change the brackets with the trailing arm still on the car?
1) I didn't check the camber of the unchanged wheel after completing the first - sorry. It shouldn't have changed much, but since the revision raised the ride height, it could have.
2) There was NO WAY the brackets could have been changed on my car by just supporting the trailing arm - the frame would have prevented the inner "pivot" bolt from being removed. I pulled the spring out and had to disconnect the trailing arm completely to swap brackets. It also gave me a good excuse to grease the half shafts. It was a job, but with good results.
Hint - undo the brake line tie-downs before you disconnect the trailing arm. That makes it easier to move around.
Hint #2 - If the bracket washers are "cupped" you'll want to replace them. The 3/8" grade 8 washers cost 17 cents each.
Thanks for the help!
|When I did mine, I reversed the inner pivot bolt, so in future it would be an easy task. Peter|
|Just curious, what was the condition of the bracket-chassis (not T.A.) bolts? When I did mine, the bolt shanks were heavily rusted and I replaced them.|
The bracket/chassis bolts and nuts were in excellent condition. The washers, though, had been "cupped" - I guess the bolt holes were just a bit too big. I only had to replace the washers.
|Thanks Brent. What folks should realize is the importance of checking those hidden bolt shanks for extensive corrosion. Nothing like a T.A. failure at speed to ruin your day.|
|A little late responding here, but all my bolts, nuts, washers were in fine shape. Figure the rationale for installing them the way they did was so they could not fall out on their own. I deemed it worthwhile to reverse them so it would be easy in future. One would have to be pretty out of synch with ones car to not notice a bolt working it's way out and all the looseness associated with it. Peter|
This thread was discussed between 02/08/2003 and 08/08/2003
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