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Triumph TR6 - roll bar

just bought a used full roll bar for my 74 tr6,
was checking the fit and the seat belt re-coil
appears to be in the way, is there a common solution
thanks ,malcolm
malcolm

Malcolm, check the archieves as I went in detail were to mount the re-coil that will work with a roll bar
Steven

Better yet, replace those (non-working) recoil belts with a static version. Removes the issue entirely.
johnston21

Malcolm, I installed a roll bar this year in my 72, which interfered with the seatbelt recoils. I repositioned them on the wheel arches with no real problems but I like the static seat belt idea because my recoils don't work that great either.
Rick W.

Just thinking of the roll bar install and was wondering if any owners can point me in the right direction to the correct installation. What I mean is the installation that transfers the loads to the chassis, not the parcel shelf. Are there kits available for this? Thank you.

Rick O>
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick

No Kits I'm aware of.

Package shelf TR6 is not bad support for a roll bar. Probably strongest part of the car. Frames 16 gauge and platforms 18.

If the bar mounting supports underneath preventing tear away are good shelf will hold any of the street versions I've seen? Good for a minor save the scalp tilt and skid? If you get into a pole vault situation end for end. The standard street bar will likley fail first?

My opinion

Bill



Bill Brayford

Thanks Bill. I know the common install is the shelf, but wanted to hear about experience with the frame attachment.

Rick O.
Keepin' the Dirty Side Down
Rick Orthen

So would I. Currently doing frame off. No better time to redesign. Anybody out there with info?

Bill
Bill Brayford

Rick and Bill,
No there are no kits, but, the strongest part of the frame is right under the parcel shelf, the main diff
arch. You can easily bolt two or three points to it
cutting out the sheet metal and carpet and seal up with a rubber dam. Second an third mounting pionts
would be the frame under the cruifix plate and then the frame under or just behind the gas tank.
The farther out on the frame towards the rear bumper
that the supports are attached will give the greater stength.
When building the roll bar you MUST have a diagonal
cross bar that is welded to the top corner of the driverside rollbar arch going diagonally down to the
passenger side lower corner of the bar. This bar is
what will save you if you roll over. It is a must!
Anything else is just cosmetic.
Christopher Trace

Thanks Chris. How much clearance is there between the parcel shelf and the chassis at the "standard" roll bar parcel shelf attachment points? In other words, how much of a crush zone is there befor bottoming out on the chassis?

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick

Will measure on the weekend and post. Mines apart. Guess is about 10 inches.

Arch is 16 gauge formed steel. If you are building a custom race bar to track specs? Thats a different story. Will not fit under the roof to be effective. Custom steel and welding is usually required.

Bill
Bill Brayford

True, using the SCCA General Competion Rules (GCR) callouts for a roll bar would require structure that definitely would not fit under the top and many I have seen have the rear braces penetrating the body work behind the cabin of the car. As far as the tube stock used, the diameter is based upon the vehicle weight. If we were to use the street car weight of a TR6 as our guide, you would use 1 1/2" x .095 DOM steel tubing at a minimum for all tubes. Steel used is typically 1095, the CrMo steels require thermal treatments. A main hoop, front hoop and bracings fore and aft of those hoops is required. Connection between the front and rear hoop can be in the form of a halo ring or bracing tubes. A diagonal is required on the rear hoop. Dimensions for bracing, required clearances between tube stock and drivers head, angles, etc. are all described in detail in the GCR.
SteveP

Thanks Bill and SteveP. No, I'm not building a racer, was just curious about the installation in my daily driver. I don't want to install something that won't be truly functional. But I gather that a bar, even if attached simply to the parcel shelf, is better than nothing.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick

Yes anything that keeps the scalp on is good.

You can do a quick roll and slide with most roll bars unless you hit something that tears it off or bends it while dirt side up. That shelf is strong for street.

As Chris pointed out a diagonal not used on most street bars is very important. The shear off points as well. The Diagonal bar will help distribute the force of impact. Vertical and sideways. If you can find one that offers that its a better choice or you might have it added. Think of a wobbly old sawhorse?

Not the $200 variety as SteveP points out will give you a lot of safety playing on a track with like beasts. And reasonably thought out were will they go if they crash areas.

Non of the above will help if you decide to play with an 18 wheeler on the freeway :)

Hate to break it to you but the big guy rarely gets hurt. TR6 2300 Lbs. wet? Honda bikes maybe? Harley Fatboys are out! :)

Surface/Mass/Velocity.


Bill

















Bill Brayford

Thanks again for the wisdom Bill. I know I've improved my safety considerably by putting modern 205/70-15 rubber at the corners. This should lower the likelihood of getting into a rollbar situation.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

This thread was discussed between 29/05/2003 and 08/07/2003

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