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Triumph TR6 - Sealing Block Blues

I've traced my abnormal oil "consumption" to a poor oil pan seal beneath the front sealing block. Both pan bolts that attach to this NLA aluminum block cannot be tightened due to stripped threads. What is the best fix for this? If Helicoil inserts are the answer, can it be done without removing the pan? Thanks.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

I'm not familiar with that setup Rick but could you go next size larger rather than helisert?

Just a thought.

Jim
Jim Deatsch

RickO,

It is a pan dropping and helicoil or other type of steel insert job. The good news is that dropping the pan on these cars is your basic easy peasy task. What I cannot remember is whether or not the fastener bores go all the way through the sealing block or not. If they do, make sure you grease up the drill and tap so the chips aren't expelled inside or just remove the block for the drill and tap portion of the operation.
SteveP

Hi Rick

Mines apart on the stand over at the shop if you can wait till tommorow I can check for Steves thinking they might go straight through. I can't remember either.

Mines a 72 but I doubt there are any differences there.

And yes Helicoils. If you don't have an air wrench lots of NF bolts on that pan to build up your wrists and yes easy peasy Steve has a shop full. :)

Easy but time consuming.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Rick....
Mine's apart, I looked at it a couple of nights ago when I took it out, and the holes do go all the way through the sealing block. Mine were leaking previously, and I pulled the bolts, cleaned the threads, used flat washers, and used a light coat of Hondabond on everything; no more drips. My bolts weren't stripped though. You probably should drop the pan if you do the helicoil thing, you don't want any loose pieces of metal running around in there. (More on that later)

Rod
Rod Nichols

Thanks all for your prompt responses. Is a main bearing cap on the other side of the sealing block? Since the holes penetrate the block, looks like I've identified winter project #1 for pan removal and general lower end rehab. For now, I'll put up with the Castrol bleed-and-feed and automatic underside rustproofing.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick

They go right through as you know. There is good room at back from cap.

My motor is not in car but getting a sraight shot at the holes with even a right angle drill may be a problem engine in. Didn't have time to check if crossmember in the way. Bolts are 5/16 NF 1 1/8 long.

If you go with the true Helicoil the master thread repair kit is 5/16-24 Helicoil PN 5402-5. Gives all required tools drill/tap/inserter and 24 coils. Thats an old # though.

Worth the investment as the trailing arm studs are the same size.

Or since I still have 22 of the 24 15 year old inserts in my kit that I may not use in this lifetime. Let me know and I'll loan you the kit. you pay the courier.:)
Bill
Bill Brayford

Bill--As always, your detailed answers are most welcome. Thanks for the offer to lend the kit--I'll check around for cost and compare to roundtrip shipping between Ontario. I believe you are correct that the crossmember is in the way, but a bit extension will work.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

This thread was discussed between 19/08/2003 and 25/08/2003

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