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Triumph TR6 - Soft top parts

When I bought my car, the previous owner's efforts at restoration were limited, but troublesome. He first removed the soft top, then started attacking surface rust with an angle grinder. Leaving aside the damage done by getting rid of surface rust and then leaving the metal exposed for a couple of years... He told me that his plan for the soft top was to simply buy all new parts, except for the frame. He threw out everything except the frame - the handles, seals, webbing, everything. I didn't plan to use the car in the rain, so I didn't worry too much about the lack of a roof. I bought a tonneau cover and I figure that I can just cover the interior with that if I leave the car outside to protect it from light rain and such. This has served me well for the last couple of years.

I am currently awaiting delivery of Uncle Jack's Miata seat brackets and I think I have found a set of Miata seats not too far away, so the totally collapsed original seats are unlikely to see those new foams I bought last year (anyone want a set?). This leaves me with two obvious options for weather protection - I could have a trim shop modify my tonneau cover to fit the higher Mazda seat backs (anyone know if they could be reclined to fit under the tonneau?), or I could finally sort out the soft top.

Could anyone tell me if there are NLA parts I need to look out for on ebay or similar? Other than the top, handles and the seal/webbing kit from TRF, what do I need? As usual, I would like to do the job myself, but with no experience of taking the top apart, is this at all realistic? Assuming I go to a trim shop for the top installation, what should I take to them? Would I be better off buying all the parts at TRF or letting the shop supply them? I would be grateful to hear of any experiences you may have had, either of having a shop do the work or doing it at home.

Thanks, as ever
Alistair
A Hewitt

Hey Alistair,

My TR6 came to me in about the same condition...bare top frame and I had no idea how it should look. I just used the exploded drawings supplied by the big suppliers and winged it...it wasn't difficult. If you can measure and use a pop riveter you will be fine. Patience is the key. Feel free to email me off list if I can help.

I'd be -really- interested in the seat foams...ping me with details please!

Rob
Rob Brophy

Hi Rob

Patience? Doesn't sound like my cup of tea!! Actually I think I will start collecting the parts for the roof this summer and hope to have it in place next spring. I bought the crash pads when they were on sale last week and I have all the windscreen seals and such already, so maybe the dashboard will finally get the attention it needs! The seats are part of that "project", and I think the roof will be included too - I can justify leaving that all winter to avoid stretching the top in the cold weather (not Ontario cold, I admit, but it is still pretty cold for me!).

I sent you an e-mail about the seat foams - they are for the '73 on seats, so probably no use to anyone on this board, since you all have '71 cars!

Cheers
Alistair
A Hewitt

Alister,
Looks like Rob beat me to the seat foam, but then I have a 71 and they might not work anyway, but if Rob doesn't need and they'd work for mine, I'm interested.

Send my your email address...dbaker04atAOLdotcom with the normal changes and I'll send you some instructions/info/data about installing soft tops. May be on CD 1. Don't remember if we put it on there, but if so, it'd be in the Tech stuff.
db
Doug Baker

Alistair,

Patience is kinda important for this job. It might be worth paying a pro $300 to install it. Another option would be to pick up a $20 used top at a swap meet and practise on it.

You'll need chalk, a cloth tape, an awl, pop rivets, and some 3M 77 spray adhesive.

And be sure to get the latches on the correct side...I'll just say it's faster than a power top if you don't :-)

Rob
Rob Brophy

This is odd - I replied yesterday but apparently it never appeared here... Oh well.

Thanks for the advice. I was just joking about patience, by the way - I expect my winter projects to take quite literally the whole winter!

Doug - you are right about the CD having some good information on installation, including Nelson Riedel's write-up. Looks like I will get to have a go myself!

Thanks again
Alistair
A Hewitt

I don't think this is worthy of starting a new thread so I'm going to take the liberty of piggy backing off this thread. Can someone tell me how you're suppose to install the top seal in the 3 channels? My mechanic/part supplier said (I thought) to install one edge in the channel and then push the other edge in? Is there a trick to this, because it's not working.

By the way, he said he would charge 6 hours to install a TR6 top, normally for some of the other british cars it's around 4 hours, but he said the 6 takes longer.

Mark
Mark Wright

Hi Mark...I just inserted one edge and used a 1 1/2" putty knife (with a blunt edge) to push the other side in. Some of my channel had to be straightened before installing the seal...check to see if someone 'adjusted' your channel to pinch the old seal.

Rob
Rob Brophy

Thanks Rob,

I'll give it a try. If someone needs an old top, I've got one that is usable. No tears in the vinyl, but the windows are yellow with a little tear. I don't know how much work is involved in replacing the windows, but I know Rimmer Bros. sells new windows or maybe even an upholstery shop.

Mark
Mark Wright

This thread was discussed between 30/07/2008 and 31/07/2008

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