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Triumph TR6 - Starting Trouble

Had a bit of car trouble today. I just got this car and it has a manual choke, which I've never had on a car before. Thus I have a couple of questions:

Leaving work this evening, after the car had sat for 8 hours, I tried to start the it (pulling out the choke. The car did not start. I pushed the choke in and tried to start it again...still nothing. Afraid that I flooded the carbs, I let it sit for an hour. Tried to start it again...again it wouldn't start.

First question: How do you know when to pull the choke out when starting the car?

In an effort to see if I was getting a spark, I pulled the spark plug wire off the number 1 plug and tried to start the car. This time it started up (though it was missing). While still running, I pushed the wire on the plug and got shocked.

Second question: Any idea why it would start like this?
C S Norcross

Manual chokes can be a real pain where you sit sometimes!

Assuming all is adjusted as it should be the general rule is colder temps equal more choke.
Even though the car has been sitting for 8 hours full choke may not be needed if the temps are reasonably warm.

When it did start did it run without the choke?

In the Mini I owned full choke was needed only in the middle of winter and even then for a very short time.
The normal drill was : Pull out fully then push in until the end of the choke handle was level with the first joint of my index finger on the dash and hit the starter leaving the throttle well alone.

You mentioned this is a new car to you so it may just be a matter of trying various combinations until you hit the one which works best for your particular vehicle.

Hope this is of some help.

Pete.
Peter Thomas

CS

Thanks for the wee laugh on the spark plug thing:)

Pull the choke out when the car has sat for an extended period of time...like 8 hours. You do not necessarily need full choke if warm climate.

There are many things that might give hard starting.
Timing is off. Bad Gas. Plugged fuel filter. Carbs not synchronized.bad plugs.Choke not actually choking when pulled out (OK you can all stop laughing now). High voltage leak in ignition system. Dirty(pitted) points/not properly gaped. Bad coil. dirty carbs(need rebuilding).
Pulling the #1 plug wire off and it starting was a fluke...getting zapped was not.
The car is new too you. Do you know its' history as far as maintenance is concerned?
Good luck, I am sure this is a minor fix.
Rick
Rick Crawford

you only need to choke it when it is cold. you got shockd cuz 30,000 volts needs someplace to go.
cold outside temps probably below 40 degrees.

birdman
birdmann

CS, which part of Tejas? It's a big place. I ask as there are several good regional VTR affiliated clubs in the state and if you have not already, you should consider hooking up with one. They can help you get familiar with the cars and their quirks, provide assistance/guidance and recommend shops in your area in the event that you would rather have someone else spin the wrenches for you.
SteveP

central cyber space......new location to me on this planet.
Yup... cold is below 40*F...one might say it is even getting close to freezing.
I would be pulling the choke out long before 40*F...heck I might not even want to be starting the car at that temp!
Rick
Rick Crawford

Before you go any further disconect the choke cables from the carbs, and check that the cables are free to move both ways. This is a 1 into 2 cable that over time can get a strand break and get very tight and not return correctly on one or other of the carbs and makes tunning them impossible,Once you have them adjusted and free all you will need to start from cold is full choke NO throttle and she will fire up, Its pointles pumping the gas pedal as these carbs dont have an accelerator pump, Its a good idea to syncronize the opening of the choke useing only 1 of the cables and syncronize them with the crossover link between the carbs
C Parker

This thread was discussed between 10/11/2006 and 11/11/2006

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