MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - Steering Column Work

I have a lot of lateral play in my steering column. Any how-to advice on replacing the two bushes and nylon washer on the steering column? Do the light/turn signal switches have to be removed, or can you just disconnect the inner column at the bulkhead connection and pull it out? Sure hope it's easier than the nylon bearings for the accelerator cross-shaft!

Thanks.

Rick O.
72 TR6
Rick Orthen

much saddness and condolences for you Rick, it is a bitch of a job.

The turn switches along with the o/d switch and low/high beam switch have to removed...actually this is the easiest part of the job.

The nylon bearings for the cross-shaft is not a technically difficult job, just requires strength, patience and some luck.

Most jobs on the '6 are fairly straight forward in fact downright easy (save for the rear bearings and diff), however most are very time consuming and sometimes way too many things need to be removed to get to the repair: eg changing bushings Fr and R (as brakes need to be taken out as with the half shafts); taking out the tranny (all the interior pieces); replacing the heater fan (consol, plinth, cucts and hoses radio and then the heater box and all the conections).

That is part of the draw to this car, besides the sound, looks and fun of driving it, one does not have to be a journeyman to be able to work on it and the most things are in grasp of the backyard mechanic. The same can not be said for other sportscars orf that vintage (Jag, Dino, A-M, Porsche)
Steven

I saw revington tr has some poly bushings for this job. Supposed to last longer. Good luck
Steve

Steven--Does "bitch of a job" mean there's a lot of stuff that has to be removed first and that this removal is straight forward? What about renewing the column bushings?

Steve--Thanks for the Revington tip on the "better" column bushings. I downloaded their catalog and they have a lot of stuff I hadn't seen before like an automatic between-shifts O/D disengager. Also news to me that silicone brake fluid should be renewed at 18-month intervals. What's it like ordering from them?

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick

Not an easy job and too much to detail here. I am not sure of the year of your car or what manual you use.

I suggest removing driver seat. Your back will be like you better.

You will have most problems with the stupid steering wheel locking ignition business if you have it. When installing. That shear bolt setup can be tricky so follow the manual very carefully.

Yes everything has to come apart but can be done! Good Luck.

Bill

Bill Brayford

Thanks Bill. My problem is I read the Haynes description first which makes the job appear relatively painless. The Bentley method, however, is scary. How can there be such a major disconnect between Haynes and Bentley? Guess I'll live with the column movement for now. I agree that removing the shear bolts (with a chisel) would be the hardest to do, especially having to work through the speedo/tach apertures in the facia. I'm not even sure you can buy replacement shear bolts either. Getting into this I thought all I had to do was slide the inner column out of the outer and not have to mess with the outer. Not so apparently.

Rick O.
72 TR6
Rick Orthen

Hi Rick

Go to the supplement pages in the back of the Haynes.

I am not much for poor design or stupid add ons due to some politician deciding the car required a steering wheel lock to prevent theft. Might stop the 13 year old down the street from joyriding maybe? I removed my ignition and lock business about 12 years ago. Placed ignition sensibly on the dash like my 250 had. Just looks better. And in a crash with a lot of keys on the ring I will be more likely to keep the family jewels! Not of course original!

The theft prevention is about as smart as my insurance evaluator coming to my shop and pointing out my Oxy/Acetylene cart had to be "chained" to the wall to prevent theft. When I demonstrated the concept of a cutting torch. His best answer was thats what the book say's. I now have a useless obligatory chain and lock? True Story go figure.

If you don't require original and don't have a thing about sticking your keys in a stupid place to start your car think about alternatives.

Bill

Bill Brayford

Rick-Just a few thoughts on replacing the steering col. bushings. If is good weekend project, not fun, but doesn't require wallowing in grease. I used a die grinder with cutff wheel to cut the shear bolts(cut was made between the clamp halves) and just used regular bolts for replacement. If the lock mech is getting worn now would the time to replace it or you could be left stranded with locked steering. An alternative is to disable the locking mech. Later, I went the same route as Bill and mounted the ign. switch on the dash. I saw a tech tip in a Moss flyer that uses a toggle bolt to pull the bushings out and this did make the job easier (write for details).
Berry

Berry or Bill,
My key doesn't turn in the key cylinder anymore. I'm afraid I may have to replace the ignition lock/switch. I like the sound of relocating the new switch on the dash. How did you go about doing this. I looked at The Roadster Factory's catalogue and saw parts from the early years that may work. How did you do the wiring? Where on the dash did you put the switch?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve

Steve-If you look in the green TRF catalog, page 305, there is an illustration of an early dash with the ign. switch. The switch is located in the hole occupied by the heater control on later cars, then another hole is added for the heater control. I used a TR4(same one as the early 6) switch and had to enlarge the hole to 3/4"+. Next a cable of about 28" is made up to extend the wires to the dash switch. I used 12 or 14 gauge with female spade terminals on one end and male on the other and wrapped the full length with tape. The col. switch was removed by cutting the shear bolts with a die grinder and cut off wheel, making the cut between the two halves of the switch. Save all the bits and the change can be reversed by buying a new 4 hole plinth,if originality is an issue.
Berry

Good job Berry

That pretty much covers it. Be carefull drilling. Your Dashwood is likly laminated. So put some masking tape around when enlarging the hole and use a sharp bit carefull of other wires. Measure twice.

You can also check out ignition switches from TSC as in Tractor supply. Or elswhere. All you need is acc./off/on/start/. Get a good one. I like the TSC stuff because it carries a good load and is designed for outdoor duty. Roadsters are damp. Plus it eliminates trying to find a key blank.

Let us know
Bill



Bill Brayford

Just did the ignition switch thing on my Nov 73. Switch from NAPA,part # KS6180 $15, took a 3/4 hole saw between the middle two pull switches on the plinth below the wood dash, and did not have to extend any wiring, it was plenty long enough when snipped right at the old switch.Easy easy.Removed old one as mentioned above. Peter G
Peter G

Guys
Thanks for responding.
Sounds fairly simple.
Steve H
Steve H

Who has an aftermarket 13-inch steering wheel? I know that should provide a bit more legroom, but was wondering if the steering effort was markedly increased. Thanks.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

It will feel good - more effort, but more control. Peter G
Peter G

I bought the napa ignition switch. I'll install it where Peter did. I'm thinking I would like a push button starter switch also. All I have to do is run a wire from the ignition side to the push button along with the starter solenoid wire. Who makes a good push button starter switch? I would like it chrome or stainless steel and mount it somewhere convenient on the left side of the wood dash. I tried the one from TSC but was not happy with it. Too stiff of a spring and I'm not quite sure of its durability. Does any other sports car have a good one that is available? Porsche maybe?
Steve H

Rick O
I have purchased same bushings as I have play also...should have done it when doing the "put her all back together" thing. Did not know about these pollys so will have to stick with the rubbers. I guess I am lucky in that when I did the rebuild I just used straight nut and bolts so no "anti-theft" sheer bolts to deal with. I plan on doing it shortly but right now the temp in the garage is just a little bit to low. Will have to get out the big heaters! The car is not going any where soon so lots of time to do it. Will let u know how it goes.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

This thread was discussed between 07/01/2003 and 24/01/2003

Triumph TR6 index