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Triumph TR6 - Steering Column, shorten?
|Has anyone shortened the steering column on a TR6? I am curious if this can be done without any undue pain and aggravation. I would like to see about 2 inches of reduction from the dash facia to the steering wheel. Thanks all!|
Yes, it can be done, and it only takes a few minutes to do it. I've done it in my own car. Basically, you need to remove the short spacer just above the first u-joint, and then slide the column down to where you want it. The only difficult thing about it is pulling the shaft out of the u-joint to remove the spacer. Once the spacer is gone, the column can be moved up and down at will by just loosening a few screws (some of them under the dash). It's been a while since I've done this, so it may be a bit different that I've described, but not by much. All in all, it's a simple saturday afternoon job, and completely reversible should you change your mind or want to sell the car.
Downside? When you move the wheel closer to the dash, you also move it closer to the edge of the seat, which will make it difficult for taller drivers to drive the car without the wheel rubbing their legs.
|BR-I did this a months ago at the same time the flexible coupling was replaced. As Dan mentioned, a 2" length tubing (spacer) had to be removed. I got the idea from looking at an early TR6 with the dash mounted ignition switch and noticed that the steering wheel was much closer to the dash. My wheel is about 7" from the dash now.|
|Thanks Dan and Berry It is good to hear something is as easy as rapping your knuckles with the peverbial monkey wrench.|
Drive til ya drop! Brian
|B.R.-One more thought. I had previously removed the ignition switch from the col. and moved it to the dash. I don't know if the switch and steering lock would interfere with moving the steering col.|
Just remember the bit about closer angle. And getting the keys in that stupid ignition.
That setup by the way is a collapsible steering post designed to move down slowly under force when either the front end comes at you or you go for the front end? Prior to that idea many drivers looked like a snack on a tooth pick after a crash.
Now going the Arnold Newton route of brakes that I like. Boneyard brigade. I do have a tilt column out of an old Hyundi that I grabbed for another project and never used. Now that might be interesting?
By the way before everybody screams Hyundi parts on my Triumph NEVER. Remember every guy that designs a car has at least one moment of brilliance. The rest are junk granted. But theres at least one great part on even the worst cars. Miata door handles the rodders dream? Right MR. Handles R Us?Guaranteed you can't find anything as stupid as that 6 ignition switch anywhere else though?
You're right, I had done the same thing, except I placed my (aftermarket) ignition switch in a home-made plinth where the old one used to be - much easier to get to with the key than stock. However, if I remember correctly, and I rarely do, moving the steering column down will just bypass the steering lock mechanism, with no harm. To see a picture of the inner steering column, see: http://www.britishv8.org/swaps/TR6ford.HTM Scroll down to the steering section. The steering lock plunger iteracts with the "lump" on the steering column. Moving it down would just cause the plunger to ride above the "lump" with no impact on steering.
This brings up another point, though, that I hadn't thought about. On my car, the previous owner had removed the upper steering clamp, which is fastened with "torque-to-snap" fasteners. These may be hard to to loosen if the fasteners haven't been drilled out. Like I said, it's been a while, so I'm not sure, and my spare steering column is in Michigan right now so I can't check on it. Anybody?
And Bill is right about the safety aspects of the collapsible column, but you only lose about 2 inches of travel, so I don't think it should be a major factor.
Tilt column? I have a friend who mated the top of a tilting GM steering column to the bottom of the TR6 column. Nice! He also has a Chevy 350 in it. NICE!
|Assuming that Dan means the steering column clamping block just behind the instrument panel for "upper steering clamp," these are not the torque to snap fasteners. This is a pair of conventional hex head 5/16 bolts into domed nuts. Clamp onto the domed nuts with channel locks, vice grips, etc, and wrench away on the bolts. I like to replace those domed nuts with conventional nuts so a wrench can be used on them for when I have to go back in there. |
The torque to snap fasteners are used on the steering (it was an anti-theft feature). Same principal here as getting rid of the domed nuts. If I have to fiddle with a steering lock on a TR6, I drill them out and replace with socket head screws. Makes it much nicer the next time in.
|Dan- I haven't been around for a couple of weeks and have only been spotty on the BBS lately, but, Are you new to our post or have I missed you in the past?. Love your book and sleep with it under my pillow!|
P.S. I still need to get more wire from you for my project.
|Steves right about the clamp bolts from my memory? But for Torque to snap security bolts if you need to remove. Rather than drilling full out. Just drop column as mentioned turn sideways and drill heads part way. Easy out then removes. Not tight at all. So no depth or possible thread damage needed.|
Dan now you've got me realy thinking. Would like to hear more on that? GMs are a bit large inside know them well. That Hyundi is trim. Plus wheel has a flat across the top like a Go-kart. Cute item thats why I grabbed it. Little disguise may work?
If my brain doesn't stop going off on tangents the frame might get finished?
This thread was discussed between 04/11/2003 and 05/11/2003
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