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Triumph TR6 - Steering Rack movement

Have a steering question for you guys. I had been hearing a clunk when moving the car in and out of the garage (still not been out of first gear yet on the project). Pulled the radiator and noticed the steering rack moves within the brackets on the frame about 1/2 inch when reversing the direction. I am guessing these brackets need to hold the rack dead tight or I'll be in for a wild ride and a lot of tire wear. How is this dealt with? Do you simply replace the mounts? Any suggestions appreciated. Also have a call into TRF's technical line.
Mark Hauser

Hi Mark
Yup, she has to be tight or as you said....The rack clamps are accessed from under the car using an extended 1/2" socket. You should replace the 5/16-24 nyloc nut (x4). Now if the rubber mounting piece(s) under the clamps are history, you have 3 choices. 1.replace with same (last choice) 2. replace with poly (TRF 5-9944). 3. Replace with MOSS #667-288 solid aluminium rack mount conversion (complete kit). I used the conversion kit and it is solid.NOTE: do not over torque the conversion kit..it is aluminium). All 3 choices keep the lower mounting plate. While you under there check out your front sway bar rubber bushing then the sway-bar link rubbers then the A arm rubber bushes...well I think you catch my drift. I could not get my car certified till I replaces one A arm bush.. Said to heck with it and replaced all with poly. You will see that virtually all the rubber pieces are available in poly now and in "kit sets".
Have fun
Rick
Rick Crawford

Hey Rick

What are the advantages with the solid aluminium rack mount? I have seen some TR with this and wondered how it changes the feel or performance of the steering?
steven

Hi Steve/Rick C.

I don't have any experience with TRF's solid mounts, but I would think that it would transmit more road vibration to the steering column. Some would say that this additional road feel and 'zero slop' is desirable. I think that it would increase the wear/fatigue rate of the components. Triumph engineered the rubber rack dampers for a reason. I'm going to put new rubber ones on soon myself.

BTW, how difficult is it to access the four U-clamp bolts holding the center bushes on the sway bar?

Thanks.

Rick O.
72 TR6
Rick Orthen

Hi guys
I can not comment factually as I have no experience with the rubber vs solid. Mark is in the same boat as me. I did the rebuild going straight to the solid mount (the rubber was cracked).So the rest is subjective. If someone out there has experience in the change from rubber to poly or solid..please add your 2 cents. If Mark determines the reason for his question is bad rubber then one could say here is an advantage. (I reread Marks statement and he said moves within the bracket so the loose think goes out the window...come on brain!). I am not sure about the increased wear. Going over a sleeping(or is it dead) bobby will transmit the thump through the rack regardless of how the rack is held in place. The rubber will allow the rack to move more redily than poly or solid. Is this good? Will one fell more vibration? Do modern day autos have the rack mounted on rubber? Consider that 30 years ago poly was the name of a bird. The modern trend is to replace all rubber with poly...more solid ride less wear etc...The solid rack mounting kit says "eliminates all play in the steering rack mounting". Rick O; I think it is more of a choice between poly or solid. Both will eliminate the play. Which is better???? This is an easy job to do regardless of the choice. Make sure rack is pulled back on the mounts (left and right side same amount) before tightening NEW nylocs, when rack nuts are loose, do not let rack shift left or right/do not touch steering wheel or you will have to realign the steering wheel.
BTW Rick O not that difficult. Suggest 1/4" drive with 1/2" socket..car does not need to be jacked up....replace nylocs with new ones.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Rick C. Were you referring to the U-clamp bolts for the sway bar? On my car, the center sway bar bush bolts are sandwiched between the radiator and the radiator "protector" steel. Not a lot of clearance; may have to remove radiator to get at them.

Rick O.
Rick Orthen

Rick O
Ya know what...you are absolutly right. Sorry..again mouth before brain problem. I went out and took a look. My fingers are not that small.As you say, it looks easiest if rad is out. Thinking back on this one, I had the sway bar (and its u-bolts) back on before the engine,rad,and body went back on!! It was easy Rick!(yuk yuk). Hay Mark...since your rad is out......(did I just admit that yes I was talking about the u-bolts)?
Rick C
Rick Crawford

With the radiator out, the four bolts are right out in the open. Even with the radiator back in, I believe you have access though they would be hard to see unless you got your head way up under the hood toward the front of the car. I reached through the two openings under the grill and could reach them through that opening as well, though I've guessed from earlier conversations that some of you may have your oil coolers in the way. If a picture would help, I can take a picture and send it (gave my wife a digital camera last year-and frequently enjoy borrowing it).
Mark
Mark H

Mark
Check yours. Beleive me with the rad in, all you would end up accomplishing would be a red face and red knuckles!!
Rick Crawford

I had the same problem that you are describing Mark. I managed to replace the worn bushings with poly while the radiator was still in. Thought that would be the end of my troubles. Finally corrected the steering with new tie rod ends. This managed to eliminate all the slop from the steering.
Ashley

This thread was discussed between 12/02/2002 and 18/02/2002

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