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Triumph TR6 - Stripped Diff studs

The 2 rear differential mounting studs on my 74 TR6 are stripped.
Any help would be appreciated
Mark Pinkstaff

Hi Mark,

I haven't done this for my differential, but you may be able to rethread this. Search the archives for "helicoil".

Ignatius
Ignatius Rigor

Hi Mark

How bad are they and what stripped them?

Heli coil has a hinged chase back kit for industry but very expensive. The TRs setup gives very little thread left if the problems right to the top. So I wouldn't advise buying unless you have some top thread left.

If the problem was caused by a NC or metric nut being run up a short way. It may be savable with a very carefull re-thread? You will need a thread gauge and a fine warding file to get die started

You will lose some strength depending on damage but a double nut should hold well if re-thread works out. Can't see the problem?

Give some feedback may be able to come up with something.

Don't panic if toast by the way. Frame off is not the only answer..:)

Bill

Bill Brayford

Thanks for the suggestions But I think we are leaning towards cutting off the threaded part of the stud then drilling the stud and inserting a threaded stud and welding together leaving the threads exposed.
Tell me what you think..
P.S. The threads are completely shot. No rethreading here
Mark Pinkstaff

Thats what I did. I removed the stud entirely and used some 3/8" threaded rod. The difference for me was that it was the forward mounts and I could access them from inside the car through a small hole over the differencial hump. I had to add a small wedge to compensate but it works fine.
BC
Bryn

Hi Mark

The mount is 9/16 the thread is 3/8ths so that is possible. I would suggest getting a couple of 3/8 grade 5 bolts the head is 9/16 the right length and then cut the stud to compensate for the bolt heads thickness. Weld complete bolt on dress up with a grinder. Should actually be stronger than the threading if welded properly and you won't have to fool with the centering and tap. Flatten bolt top first. Theres a good 1/16 play in the mounts so it should work fine.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Saturday the day after Hurricane Charley and decided to tackle the studs.
Decided to start with the least aggressive (metal removal) option so that if it failed I would still have some stud remaining.
It worked out great, I first cut off the threaded part and then ground the remaining stud to flat.
Next drilled it to 21/64ths, one inch deep.Using a series of drills starting at 1/8" Being carefull to keep the drill straight.
Then tapped threads of 3/8" X 24 into the center of the stud (use plenty of oil and take your time)
(I SAID TAKE YOUR TIME!!!)
Finished off with compressed air to clean the new threads. Then topped it off with new mounts, Washers, Lock washers, 1" long Grade 8 bolts with a little blue Locktite.
The procedure took me 3 hours (with a hurricane party hangover)
P.S. I was told that the TR-6's have a clunk in the rear and maybe this is so but mine nearly all went away with this repair so check your studs and you may find that you are about to have big trouble that can be avoided fairly simply.
Thanks for your help and support and good luck.
Mark Pinkstaff

This thread was discussed between 08/08/2004 and 15/08/2004

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