MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

TR parts and Triumph parts, TR bits, Triumph Car Spares and accessories are available for TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR4, TR4A, TR5, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire and Stag and other TR models are available from British car spares and parts company LBCarCo.

Triumph TR6 - The unkown - engine

Ok folks
The challenge..The frame (ex Chris Trace) has now been realigned etc. and will be back in my hands this weekend.

Chris Trace kindly sent me a (sort of) put it back together list..which I put onto MS Project and then produced a series of work sheets (jobs to do etc). One item on the rebuild is to put the engine in, simple you say and yes with a frame off it will be. Now the hard question, before I stripped the car the engine did turn over and thats all I can say...no fuel lines etc, clean oil. What should I do before the engine goes back on the frame?????? Seal/gasket changes????

Thanks
Les
lw gilholme


Hi Les

I'm assuming it has been a long time since this engine ran. Is the mileage on the engine known?

Short of doing a full rebuild, which sounds like you're trying to avoid, you could do some checks while the engine is out. You could mount it on an engine stand, if you haven't already, and remove the oil pan and check crank end play as well as main and rod bearing clearances. Look at the bearings and see if they are the original and if they are worn through to the copper. Check the crank journals for scoring.
If these are okay you MIGHT be alright as is. You could do a cylinder leakdown test with compressed air to verify rings and such.

Unless you do a rebuild it's a bit of a crap shoot. You won't know of other problems until you get it running.

That's my 2 cents. Let's see what others say.

Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Les:

Don't forget to check the thrust washers on your crank. Inexpensive part that could prevent a catastrophic failure. Check your oil pump too; not expensive but a potential problem. The Haynes manual has good info on how to check this out. Good luck.

Bob
1976 - TR6
Bob Evans

Gents

Very good information for the uninitiated (like me), I shall have to get myself a Haynes Manual...Is this better than the Leyland-Triumph Manual? or is it easier to read?

Les
lw gilholme

Les, time cash in some of those RRSP's to free up some
spending cash. Rick C. and Pete R. have both just recently re built their engines pretty much by themselves except for hot tanking the block.
I know Rick has some very accurate numbers on what it cost.
Chris
Christopher


I rebuilt my engine by myself too. It's been a couple years but I think I can remember most of it.
There's a wealth of knowledge on this site so ask away.
HP Henry Patterson

Les
I put my project back together with an UN-KNOWN engine. I put the body back on the frame/engine assembly and I guess you could say ...well lets see what the engine can do. I drove it for a year with 25 LBS oil pressure. One year later I pulled the engine and tranny ( just as easy to pull both at the same time). I was totally lucky I did not put a rod through the block with what I found. I bought all my engine rebuild parts from BPNW. Now my complaint is too high oil pressure. I think I will go down to 10W30 and EOS instead of 20W50.
OK point is. If you question your engine...if you have no idea what it will do...if you are unsure of thrust washers...if you do not know engine mileage or know it is high (45,000 Miles)...if oil pressure was low before the restore then:
Do NOT hesitate, rebuild the engine. It is very easy to put the tub back on the frame with engine. It easier to do this than pull the engine later.

PARTS:
Scott Helms thrust washers
BPNW engine rebuild parts. Make sure you go with the VP2 replacement bearings( more expensive but very good OE equipment). I think I was around $2500. I pulled engine apart. Took it to engine re-builder. He had to line bore it ($250.00) because I needed to replace one main bearing cap (instead of new block) and he reassembled the head ( I had the head rebuilt before...$500.00).

If I had to do it again, I would not guess on engine quality ( I had absolutely no clue..not even an engine turn over)...I would go straight to the engine rebuild.

Rick
Rick Crawford

Les, I would definetly rebuild now while it is much easier. I pulled mine out and rebuilt myself. It is a pitb pulling out and putting back in, so you are in a much better situation now. Just my 2 cents worth.
ps an old Acadia guy from 1964
Cheers
Pete
Pete Russell

Les:

OOps - forgot the Leyland manual from CD's I & II. 'cause I had the Haynes open on the desk when I read your thread. I too am rebuilding my engine from the bottom up with most new parts. Rick, I've got the County bearings & hope they are up to the job. Good luck Les!

Bob
1976 - TR6
Bob Evans


Bob,

When I started rebuilding my engine I ordered county bearings. I just ordered them without doing any research. I ended up sending them back. Through my research I found the best bearings are the original Vandeville (sp?) but they don't make them any more. BPNW supplies a heavy duty bearing, made by King Bearings, that are made to the Vandeville spec. I believe they are the only bearing out there that is made that way. If you get them and compare them to the county bearing as you hold them in your hand you will see and feel the difference. A much more "stout" bearing. Even though the county bearings will work I decided since I have the engine apart and had the crank nicely reground why not use the best bearing I can find. The extra price was worth it to me.

By the way.. The VP2 bearing that Rick mentions is the same one I'm talking about.

Henry
HP Henry Patterson

This thread was discussed between 15/03/2007 and 18/03/2007

Triumph TR6 index