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Triumph TR6 - Thrust Washers

How exactly are the trust washers replaced? I heard the engine would need to be pulled. Your feedback is appreciated.
TJ

It is possible to replace the lower end bearings and thrust washers with the engine in the car. However, this is operating under the assumption that they have not been allowed to wear too much such that there is work required on the crank or the block. It is fiddly and a bit of a bother, definitely not as easy to do when the engine is out and on a stand, but then again, you didn't have to pull the engine either, so it is a more than fair trade.

If are not currently scheduled to be on the receiving end of one of CDs, post back for further discussion/copy of same. It includes a version of the old factory manual which serves as the basis for the Bentley book, plus many other items of interest. If you do not have and would like a hard copy of the Bentely book, contact Tom or Lamar at Atlanta Imported Auto Parts (hey, they're in Decatur).

SteveP

TJ- The thrust washers can be done in your garage w/o pulling the engine I believe.Become a member(painless and free). There is a great archive in this BBS and that subject has been discussed several times by different people.12.21.26 of the Bentley manual describes the method
Don K.
DON KELLY

Hi TJ,
I'm assuming you did the end float test to check the thrust washers. If your engine has more than 60k miles on it then probably they are close to needing replacement. If your oil pressure is low then I'd also replace the main and crank bearings along with the oil pump at the same time...It sounds like a terrible job but it was fun and not all that hard...I did it the first time in 2.5 hours lying under the car. I did all of mine at the same time last year and it's well worth the extra effort
As for just doing the washers you have to remove the oil pan and # 4 big end bearing cap to access the thrust washers..they should almost fall out maybe with the help of a plastic cable tie or have a helper turn the engine over by hand. ( Remove the plugs, put it in 4th gear, put a jack under one tire to stop it from turning and turn the other wheel..it's easier with the tires on the car.
You'll probably find the rear one ( which bears most of the load ) will be worn or chipped and in my case that's the one I replaced on my car since I had no end float. I bought the alloy type from Scott Helms ..here's his link

http://users.arczip.com/zntech1/tr6.html

When replacing them make sure you note which direction the grooves on them face...the should face away from each other...this is crucial in allowing the oil to flow

As far as the bearings etc this page can help explain the steps..
http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6bearings.html

Hope that helps a bit
Charlie
Charlie B.

Hi TJ
It should take about an hour and a half, you need the car up on stands safely, or better still if you have a pit.
Drain and remove the sump,
Remove the rear main bearing cap,
Feed out the old thrust washers,
Feed in a pair of standard new ones making sure the bearing sides face out the way,
Check the crank endfloat is .004" to .008" if the endfloat is excessive oversize thrusts are available, [worthwhile having a selection]
Replace the main bearing cap and torque,
Clean all faces and replace sump with new gasket,
Refill with fresh oil,
As Steve says, this assumes the washers haven't worn to the extent of damaging the crank etc,
Ron
R. Algie

TJ
Like all have said can be done without pulling the engine. TR must be up on jack stands and supported with 100% safety in mind.
Just to make it crystal clear: THE most important thing to do FIRST is to check end float. Join this BBS and the subject is discussed in the ARCHIVES. You do not see this word at the top of this page because you have not joined. Or go to link Charlie says and there is procedure not to mention the source to buy the washers.
I pulled #4 main last week so as to get at the thrust washers.(my end float is .015"). I wanted to also do the bearings and new oil pump. I have put the TWs back in and #4 cap. I have to replace my washers the Steve P way. After discussions with Charlie B and Chris T....well simply put, the engine needs to come out. The crank requires turning. When you pull #4 cap off ( you must in order to replace the TWs) you will see the journal. Check its' condition. If worn/gouged/grooved then maybe you need to do same as me. Beleive me. I was not planning on this. But I would be wasting my time and money (and doing more harm to the engine) if I just replaced everything. What I thought was going to be $100.00 is...well....a few bucks more:) One thing to remember. The cap and bolts MUST go back on exactly as they came off!!!There IS a left and right side.

Like Steve P says...consider going over to another current thread TR6 cd(2) and asking pretty please...this subject is covered very well on the CD.
Good Luck
Rick C
Rick Crawford


Hey Rick,

I see you ended up where I did....wanting to do a minor bearing "refreshening" and winding up pulling the engine and grinding the crank...and new pistons, bore, cam, some new tools, NEED I GO ON!?!

My end play was also .015. Now it's .007 with just replacing the standard size thrust washers. I'm slowly putting it all back together. Had a reasonably warm day yesterday. almost 50 deg. (F. of course since 50 deg. C is what...around 120 deg. or so?) so I got a few things done.

Good luck
Henry
HP Henry Patterson

Once again sound advice from this group. As advised, I have joined the BBC and found some additional information in the archives on this topic and many others. Great information.

As warm weather approaches here in north-metro Atlanta, it's time to get this done. Thanks for your input. Hopefully it will not be like some of the other projects that start out small and become major. Who am I kidding? It will be-but I love it anyway!

Here's to spring and going topless!

TJ McCabe

TJ
To get rid of the non member still beside you name. After you log in go to the page before this (the list of current threads) and book mark it. Then go directly to it. You can then Customize the look and how your are seen. It is recommended you discuise your e-mail. Use AT and DOT to replace those symbols.

Good luck on what you discover.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

This thread was discussed between 05/03/2005 and 07/03/2005

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