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Triumph TR6 - Turn Signals Slow, Blink Faster w/ Acceleration

My turn signals blink slow while idling. If I accelerate, they blink faster. Volt meter varries from approx 12.5 - 13.5. Also, 4-way flasher is verrrrry slow.

I'm assuming this is an indication that my (4-way)flasher needs replacing. Thoughts before I purchase one?

Thanks,

Peter Johnston

Update re: above, 12.5 - 13.5 is voltage displayed while idling. Under acceleration, it climbs up to 14.5.

A socket clean-up will be done this weekend.
johnston21

Hi Peter

What year is your TR?

Hazard switch is involved on most. Not used much and get cruddy. Sometimes just flipping on and off a few times after spraying switch cleaner makes a difference?

Do a cleanup of your grounds and sockets and flasher contacts. A good electronic switch cleaner may save buying a lot of parts.

Actual current flow will cause this. Mostly bad connections.

Bill
Bill Brayford

Bill
You forgot to mention dielectric grease:)
Peter if Dr Bills' good advice does not cure the problem, maybe the Alternator is not functioning properly and is need of a rebuild. Is your dash light on (slightly) at idle? Proper belt tension? Sounds like the good ol days of generators.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Yr is 1975. At very very low idle the ign light does comes on (slightly) untill acceleration.

Will follow the clean-up advise & check belt tension.

Thanks.
Peter Johnston

Hi Peter

Good points Rick. Clean your alternator connecors as well.

I am not sure if your aware of Dialectric Grease Peter. Older cars or anything for that matter elecrical connections corode. Yep you knew that.

Original they had a coating of anti-corosive on the metal. In most cases mild corosion starts as soon as there used just connecting gauls the stuff. Then after years and many reconnects and cleanings theres nothing but bare metal. Light sockets, bullet connects whatever.

A good size tubes about 8 bucks. Even C/T carries it or a parts store. Its a basic clean everything test and then dose real well with the grease in every area.

One tip. The first time you use it you will only use a small part of a tube on let say tail light connectors and sockets? The second time you take it apart buy 2 tubes. You will notice the areas you thought you used too much on the first time are perfect still. Dose it up. :)

I proved this to myself. For the DUH hundredth time. Helped a handi-capped buddy with a bad connection under the dash in his Firebird. Just before he put it away in dry storage last winter. If you have ever pulled a dash or worked under one, in a so called American sports car with air and every other bell and whistle. You can realy apreciate your TRs simplicity?

No Rick I did not use the Dialectric and repeated the same procedure a week ago. Car sat in a perfectly dry storage all winter and the cleaned connection was crap by spring. Didn't have to pull the dash went straight to it standing on my head.

My Buddys handi-cap by the way is purely mechanical. Smart boy though he always brings the right beer when he comes mooching. Holds mine while I work and leaves lots behind.:)

Bill











Bill Brayford

Resolved with a liberal spray of electrical cleaner, and a check of the belt tension.

Thanks all.
Peter Johnston

Peter
There are pros and cons to electrical "contact" cleaners. Your better choice where moisture can become an issue is dielectric grease. I can appreciate that if you took the spray to the alternator directly, that grease just would not do the job here.
Rick C
Rick Crawford

Hi Bill, Rick,

Can you recommend a spray switch/contact cleaner?

Ignatius
Ignatius Rigor

MG chemicals Super Contact Cleaner is what I use.
It cleans and has a protectant as well. In auto use clean and then use Dialectric as well. Nothing beats that stuff after the contacts clean.

What are you using it on?

Bill
Bill Brayford

Probably not the flashers since both are doing it, but on the off chance it is, most any standard 2 wire flasher will work. Just pull the one off your everyday car to try and see if there's a difference

Doug
D.W. Campbell

Hi Bill,

My rear brake lights quite working (although my running lights work). I thought it was the switch at the pedal, but that seems OK. I do have to wiggle/scratch with my ohm meter probe to get a connection in the light socket though, so I figured I had better clean this up.

Yes, I am also a big fan of dielectric grease, and will apply liberal amounts after cleaning.

Ignatius
Ignatius

Hi Ignatius

Your going to need hand cleaning for that. No electronic cleaner works that well that I know of. Carefully brighten up all surfaces.

Clean up the grounds if both lights are out its likely either main ground? Or the main feed wire from the switch. Check for voltage at the socket with brake pedal depressed to a good ground. There is a multi pin connector on drivers side just up in the left. Clean that as well.

And then hit with the dialectric liberally as you mentioned.
Bill
Bill Brayford

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2003 and 29/05/2003

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