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Triumph TR6 - What should I do?
| Ok here is the deal. The dash and wheel are off, the heater is out,and the wiper system is is out. Should I go a head and remove the facia and have it redone too (blasted and coated)? Don K. |
| DON KELLY |
| Don, Why not, might be the better question? How much more trouble can it be given you are where you are. BTW, I'm about at the same point, but have had a hang up with refurbishing the guages. Now have the necessary internal O rings; glass to bezel, so when I get these back together, the facia is the next thing to come out, get cleaned...glass beaded, maybe, then primed and painted and set aside anticipating reassembly sometime this year!! I've not taken the heater out yet, but that'll be next or soon on the list. Let me know how it comes out; particularly if you encounter any difficulty in getting the facia out. db |
| Doug Baker |
| Don, I redid the dash many years ago. My dash was a nice wood grain but nothing spectacular. So being a hobby woodworker I went to a wood supply outfit and looked at real wood veneers all wrinkled and about 1/32" and found a walnut veneer with a knot in just the right place (to be over the glove box). I sanded on the originial dash but only to rough it up and glued the new one on with the glove box door fixed in place. Then very carefully cut out and trimmed each hole and of course the glove box. The slight extra thickness is not noticeable. Then finished with satin finish thick enough to fill the grain. I was very proud of it. Has held up just fine, looks to be originial. Advice for someone with a lot of time. Walter |
| Walter Dobbins |
| Walter- My Dash is not in very nice shape and am planning on building a new one out of solid stock. I will also reconfigure gauges and switch set ups. All of this at a later time. I think about it occasionally and mock it up in my head. It was the metal backing plate I was questioning. Don |
| DON KELLY |
| If I am to do this does any one have NOS of the lower dash pads? It would be great to have a 69 or 70 pair. I have moved the ign. switch to the rheostat hole so the left hand pad I think on the older ones is bigger.(?) Don |
| DON KELLY |
| Don, Don't know if this'll help, but I will have (used, of course) lower dash pads from my 71, built in June 71. I decided to replace all the dash pads, although the lower ones seem to be pretty much OK. I don't have any idea what condition they'll be in after I get them off, but you're welcome to them. db |
| Doug Baker |
| Doug- Mine are fine,I just figure they will be destroyed removing them Don |
| DON KELLY |
Just wondering....if you are talking about the metal dash panel that is covered with the wood facia and everything else, how bad can it be that it requires restoration? I replaced my wood facia and when I had it apart the metal dash assembly looked fairly new. I figured it looked new because it had been covered by the wood and other pieces for all those years. Maybe I am lucky. Henry |
| HP Henry Patterson |
| Don, Do not use solid wood for your new dash! it will warp. Plywood will keep it's shape a lot better. Use a good quality plywood and then use PVA to glue on a veneer. Coat The plywood and the veneer and let it almost go off. (lightly moisten the other side with water to help prevent it warping to much before you apply the glue) Then use your wifes iron to press the veneer to the plywood, trust me she won't mind. The heat lets the glue bond the two together and dry without the need to keep pressing on it. The Iron pressed hard is enough. Then cut out your holes for gauges, switches and the glove box. My brother is a cabinate maker, and he taught me this. The veneer was purchased from my local woodworking shop and they had a size that was perfect for the dashboard. I have done mine and very pleased with the results, although I just re veneered the origional dash. Good Luck, Colin |
| Colin Wilson |
| Henry I think you right what Don is talking about. Don, give it a blast of anti-rust black spray paint and put it back in. Spend more time on the stuff that you see. Doug, my passenger side knee crash pad has a few specles of paint on it and a small tear right in the corner by the door. I am interested in that piece. Lets talk $. These 3 pieces come off very easily and will not get damaged when removed. Rick C |
| Rick Crawford |
| Rick- I have a motto "If you go to the trouble of removing it. Put it back in right" My powder coater and blaster is 6 miles down the road. Also my car spent 2 winters where water got up to the axles at least twice. I have rust spots where you don't see. Eventually the car will be totally disassembled and then that will be 1 less thing to do. Sounds like I am trying to talk myself into it. Don |
| DON KELLY |
| Don , I'm just echoing Colin and Rick, stay with the original plywood. All I did is sand down to the original wood, went to a wood specialty shop and picked up some beautiful paper backed veneer( no wrinkles or warps, very flat) and glued it using carpenters glue. Let it set, cut out holes very carefully and spar varnish several times wet sanding in between. Bit of polish and your done.Spar varnish is one of the only finishes that allows for expansion,(full hot sun,full shade)and takes along time before it shows its age. If you end up getting right down to the frame and if you have a chemical dip facility near you consider having the frame dipped. It will come back to you absolutely clean metal in side and out not a speck of rust on it. Sorry for spending your money but I have this disease that makes me disasemble everything I buy and build back together in order to make it "mine". Wretched disease but also love it. Chris |
| Christopher Trace |
| Chris- Part of my business is working with paper coated veneers that are 1/82 of an inch thick.My car will be a summer driver only I have conversed with a couple of people who have used solid wood and have not had any problems over the years. I plan on using a plywood piece as a mock up. I have contacts with a wood working shop that can get me anything I want. They will set up the jigs to copy a plywood mock up. My powder coater has both a blasting chamber and a dip tank for the frame and all the large body parts, I have almost all body parts brand new in my storage area. They will be fitted before they are dipped then they will be checked for imperfections and finished.The reason I asked about the facia, does it make sense to do it now with the dash and interior torn apart (see my pic on the TR6 pics).As it stands now almost any piece that can be removed has been powder coated. Sorry to ramble Don |
| DON KELLY |
| Don I'm envious, I wish I had powder coated many parts that I painted. As I remember the facia is spot welded in place. Eastwood has a neat little drill that cuts through just one side of the weld leaving the other side intact for the re-weld. You will never have her stripped down this far again so have at it. Is that Dan's wiring kit coming from under the dash? Chris |
| Christopher Trace |
| Don Holly cow Don, the word anal came to mind but it appears from your pic over at Charlie's web page, you wish to be more realigiously diligent in your project. That part, in most cases, never sees moisture but then my car was invited to board the ARK. Chris, yes that is Dans'kit. Looks like a holly mess.....EH? Don will have a devilish of a time sorting that out. Rick C |
| Rick Crawford |
| "Chris, yes that is Dans'kit. Looks like a holly mess.....EH? Don will have a devilish of a time sorting that out." Actually, it's not all that bad. It just looks scary, but if Don takes it one step at a time, it'll all work out fine. To see how another TR6er installed one of these kits, see: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Dans%20Wiring%20Harness.htm |
| Dan Masters |
| Ha Dan Do not take me wrong. I was not putting down your kit. Infact, I am glad to see someone is offering a "new and improved" wiring harness for a system that is 35 year old technology. You are on the CD as a supplier. I was having fun with Don K. Go to Charlie's BBS picture site and see who Don bought his car from. You will "get it" then:) Rick |
| Rick Crawford |
| Rick- Your "Ark" reference is spot on. After I wrote about the flood I realized I should have stuck a Noah joke in there somewhere. Chris.I thought the facia is bolted in,not spot weld. Do you have first hand knowledge of this? Don |
| DON KELLY |
| Don Totally forgot to address that when replying to Dans comment. The Metal facia is not welded in (sorry Chris). At least it was not on mine. Rick C |
| Rick Crawford |
| OK, you talked me into it! Don |
| DON KELLY |
| Boy, you got to be quick around here if you want to answer a question directed to you. Rick you cast a large net. |
| Christopher Trace |
| Sorry Chris...thought you would be busy putting an engine hoist in the back of your van. I will not let it happen again;) AHHHH...the wild and frivolous spending of money on our little toys...makes the heart sing. Quick-draw-Mcgraw |
| Rick Crawford |
| The facia is out. The bugger was pulling the steering apart. Seems the lower crash pads are bolted on, I figured they were glued on. off to the coaters. Don k. |
| DON KELLY |
This thread was discussed between 10/03/2005 and 13/03/2005
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