MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - 302 ford in a mgb

hi i am putting a 302 in my 1980 mgb ..i am using the t-5 tranny that was bolted to the 302..and my ? is what problems will i encounter regards to space..i know i will have to get a custom made header or i can go with a later 289 cast iron exhaust manifold if i want to choke the motor do death ..he he he ..any ways any help would be appreciated
andrew pellerito

Andrew,
There are a bunch of us like you out there. I just 2 weeks ago slide my engine in for the 1st (I am told 6 is avg) test fitting. I noticed a few things.

1. have to cut out the OE motor mounts from frame.

2. If equiped you will need to cut 2 Ford Mo Co casting tabs off the block to clear the frame.

3. You WILL need to notch your crossmemebr and use a rear sump oil pan. (The recent article on Dan Master's website claims different, but they have engine way forward and up in car. I have also seen a 302 conversion that had motor mounts welded to the cross member to get them back and under the engine with room for propper issolation materials to damped engine vibration into chassis.

4. You will need to do a little bit of "dressing" of the tranny tunnel, I have not had engine set into final position, but I think I have a few places where I will need an extra 1/4" around the bellhousing area when the engine is as far back as possible.

5. You SHOULD be able to not use a HTOB for the clutch! I have sourced a mas produced slave Cyl that should bolt right up to the stock mustang clutch arm, thus saving the need for a HTOB with are insanely expensive.

6. UNFORTUNATELY, you will need (no matter what) to cut the wheel well to accomodate exhaust. this is my biggest sticking issue, and I am still researching, but hope is fading. the stock manifold will kick the exhaust to far out the back of the block, and will run into the firewall from what I have seen.

I have a set of Factor Ford Cobra headers en route and hope to investigate thier use further.. as mentioned I have only done one slid in fitting, I just got my mini starter (saves 10lbs and space..) once the headers are in, I will get them all together and drop it in again. OTherr than those issues, it is like any other V8 conversion, the 302 is a nice small package. The tabs are a problem as they will hit frame on both side if engine is strainght in car and low enough. once they and the stock engine mounts are gone, the engine will slide right down in the car.
Larry Embrey

Heh, should have my site in my signature..

www.larryembrey.com/mgb

check the tech section for my 302 conversion info, and progress.
Larry Embrey

Wow, my post sounds pretty negative. I AM a little dissapointed at just having to do a few of the above things, as I was hoping to do the conversion in such as way as to be reversible.

However on thinking about it further I do realise that once done it is extremely unlikely I will ever want to remove it, nor will I ever want to sell her. to me that is the point. Making the car so enjoyable that you never sell it, AND you always drive it thus promoting the marque..
Larry Embrey

Larry,

Do you think you can complete without steering or hood (bonnet) adjustments? Also how are you going about aligning the engine, tranny, and diff? I am about to start mine and will be looking forward to your site. Incidently, I am encouraged by your comments, since I was expecting more difficulties. I have been getting the 5.0 mustang mag and find quite an array of headers available. Prehaps an equal length shortie would work?



Stan A

The headrs are still my biggest hold-up. I have a set of Ford EO Cobra headers en route. I did see a set of equal length shorties that looked very good also.

I am not sure what I will do about alinging the engine. I need to get the headers and cut the assembly tabs off block before I can really take a look at that. From what I have seen people put them a little higher in the front? As far as steering, I am not forseeing any changes at all, though only time will tell. Hood wise I will not be doing anything. If I have to I will redesign how the engine is installed. I refuse to do bonnet bulge or louvering, that is my one absolute sticking point..
Larry Embrey

Larry, what the heck is an HTOB? I am very sorry to hear that you have to cut holes for the exhaust ... that's something that, even though good men have done it, I am flatly unwilling to do to my car. Not gonna happen. I think the 302 has been developed so much further than the BOP/R; at least the cyl heads are miles ahead in terms of development and parts are almost as common as for small Chevys. A 302 with an alu block (I grant you, probably fearsomely expensive) would seem to me to be a near ideal solution, but for those wheel well holes.

I still don't understand what you do for an oil pan/pump. I realize the pan from Econoline vans may work as it is deeper in the back. Do you just use the oil pump as well? Don't know much 'bout Econolines ... do they use 302s? Is there a way to do this without cutting up the MG's crossmember (not that I care so much about that)?
Jim

HTOB=Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing

Well, I am still fighting very hard to not cut the wells. in fact nothing has been altered on the car yet, and everything hinges on the exhaust right now. BUT having to cut the mounts makes it less "bad" to me since the car will not be returnable to stock for easily.

I also like the 302 for the WIDELY available performance tweaks, and here in US basic parts are easy to find.

Oil pan, I got a rear sump pan with the engine, and for a pump I just went to auto store and said I needed a oil pump with rear pickup. not sure what vehicles the pans are fron though I heard they are fron older mustangs...

I see no way for doing it without cross member cutting unles you cant the engine way forward in the car.

Alum block 302's are available, I think I remember it being like $3500+ for BLOCK only, no crank, or anything.
Larry Embrey

Larry,

I just started working on a '78 B that I brought over from CA last month. Not sure which engine to go with yet, even after all the research on the net this past year. Are you retaining the heater with your 302 configuration?
Michael Willis

Yes I will retain the heater. I am NOT doing any mods to the firewall, just possibly some dressing of the tunnel, and then the motor mount modifications if all goes well.
Larry Embrey

larry what do you mean by oil pump with rear pick up..my 302 has the oil pump at the front of the motor and the pick up tube at the rear of the motor ..now i am assuming that is what you mean but 302 came stock that way..and i have heard about the econoline ford van oil pan and i investigated it and there is really no difference except for back of pan is deeper then mustang pan but front is the same depth
andrew

It sounds like you have the correct oil pump/pick-up. all the late model mustabng 302 were front pump, front sump. the pan was very deep up front and very shallow in back..

my site is down or I would point you to it for pictures.. should be up a bit later..
Larry Embrey

larry you got me all confused here now...
andrew pellerito

OLD mustangs and some Vans have the REAR pick-up setup. Newer stangs have a front pick-up.. sorry, that was kind of round about earlier..

I think you have what you need already..
Larry Embrey

what kind of HTOB are you using? ...ie..model number ,make ,or what type of vehicle can it be found on?
andrew pellerito

oops sorry larry ..you have found a slave cylinder that will bolt right up to the stock clutch arm ...you have a part # for that slave cylinder or make ?
andrew pellerito

Made by WILWOOD, P/N:260-1333, they also have a rebuilt kit P/N:260-5524. Might be worth buying one to have when you make an order. http://www.SummitRacing.com has the slave Cyl for $55.00

Anyone trying to reach me try my alt email, my domain is acting up: lembrey@qwest.com


Larry Embrey

OK, now for a question back at the masses..

That sort if angle should I set the engine/tranny at when figuring out my engine & Tranny mounts? I seem to thing that the setup should be "nose high", but how much? I was thinking of using a Std level on the block from front-rear sitting where the intake goes.. should I maybe set it so the bubble is split by the leveling line with the front higher??

Any help would be appreciated.
Larry Embrey

Larry no clue but you might try that same technique on some common carb cars.When i can't figure something out i often look at various factory cars.They got tons invested in research and development so might help.I'd try an older mustang or similar..........Greg
greg phillips

heh I just happent o have a buddy with a '69 mach 1 and 302 heh, just HAVE to go over and take a look...
Larry Embrey

Larry, the engine/trans rotating centerline needs to be parallel to the centerline of the pinion shaft on the differential, although they can (and should be offset) so the universal joints on the driveshaft rotate through about 7 degrees max. for steady driving. This prevents localized wear of the universal joint needle bearings and driveshaft vibration. So you either need to set the engine angle to accomodate this, or the pinion angle, or both.

Wayne
Wayne Pearson

Well, my original header concept proved a failure. The stock Cobra shorties end just off the back of the block, right in like with the backplate/bellhousing, and of course right INTO the firewall. I am a bit bummed, but still trying to work it out...

I am thinking of getting them bent to point straight down which will point them at a nice opening between the block and frame rails. I will be buying a small piece of 2 1/4" exhaust pipe to slide through that opening on each side of engine with it in the car to make absolutely sure it will fit before I think about bending the headers. I also fond the Cobra headers are very choked down just like stock shorties and will not flow very well, so it may not be worth the hassle.

I should have some pictures soon, I will keep updating my site. (see signature)
Larry Embrey

ERRR, guess my little trick did not work..

http://www.larryembrey.com/mgb
Larry Embrey

Larry sorry about your experiment, life is one big experiment.
The engine should be level front to rear and side to side. high is critical for the alignment of the transmission to the differential, no more than 3 degrees, but 1 1/2 is ideal for U joint life and high speed vibration. The line drawn from the trans to the pinion should be paralellto each other. Use a broom stick etc.. Don't worry about it. Just make sure the engine is level.
Yes! make the checks without the carb, do it on the base of the manifold. The angle is in the manifold.
Go for it!
Bill Guzman

BTW Larry, I hope everything is well with you and your family, 6.8 is a big shaker. My Mon 93 year old and sister live in Kent valley, thank God they are OK, just minor damage to the house (cracks) Let us know if you need anything.
Bill
Bill Guzman

Nah we are all good here, Seattle and Oly got it the worst. because they are all cement landscaoe and lots of brick structures...

I was in the northridge quake so this one not to bad on me.. Thanks for the thoughts..

NOW back to the important stuff!

Thanks for the encouragement, I have not given up on the headers yet, but hope is fading fast..
Larry Embrey
Tacoma

The Aluminum Block F302 weighs 98lbs dry with the 1018 4-bolt splayed main caps. The SVO 4-bolt main A4/R302 block weighs in at 160lbs dry with the Nodular Iron 4-bolt splayed main caps. Newest on the list is the Ford Sportsman 302 8.2" deck blocks which have the Beefy lower end except it has the 2-bolt main caps.
Aluminum Heads without the rocker arms weigh about 22lbs each. By Using the F302 aluminum block and a set of Aluminum heads, 112lbs can be shaved; only your wallet and your goal can justify it.

$800 for the 2-bolt Sportsman
$1400 for the SVO 4-bolt
$3000 for the aluminum block.

The SVO 4-bolt R302 and the Aluminum F302 block's have siamese cylinder bores. (The Aluminum block has replaceable cylinder sleeves)

Late '60s 302's had the beefy lower end as did the late '70s blocks and the '86 GT block. The 2-bolt block can be beefed up by using stronger main caps and/or a stud girdle. The Girdles are made out of either aluminum or tool steel.

I am planning a EFI 5.0 or 306 motor, twin turbocharged of course and maybe be considered at least a GT2 racer when complete and at least $20k later...

Questions?
James D.

Where did you find all this information and terminology? I have never heard of a R302 or Sportsman 302 even with my research at various Mustang sites, please share!

I got lucky and have one of the Mexican 302 blocks that have the beefy lower section, mine is a 1971 one of the last.

How are you planning to fit the turbos in the car? I am guessing you are going to have hood bulges or scoops? The 302 is a tight (like a custom made glove) fit in stock trim...
Larry Embrey

The R302 name is a replacement for the SVO A4 block, why the names have been changed I don't know since it seems like the same block.

The Sportsman block was just announced in the April '01 issue of "5.0 Mustang and Superfords."
M-6010-B50 ,it's a limited offer. Maybe buy this block and some 1018 Steel Main caps and you will save about $700. (poor man's A4, but I don't know if the Sportsman has Siamese bores or non-saimese...)

The Mexican 302 block is a good block to build if not exceeding 500hp and of course if you can find one.
(stud girdle helps)

As for the engine placement, move the driver's seat back along with the dash then cut out the firewall and set the engine back. Move the Radiator to the back of the car and mount the turbo's about water pump level in the front of the engine. Hopefully no bulges allthough cooling scoops might be made to vent the hot air from the intercooler and turbine housings.

I also want to use the Mustang clutch Quadrant kit instead of a hydraulic setup.... but I dunno.
James D.

FWIW - The stock Ford 302 iron block only weighs 127 pounds, so only 29 pounds can be saved by using the aluminum F302 block. Mighty expensive, those 29 pounds!The aluminum heads save 50 pounds/pair, for a total of 79 pounds of weight loss. Total weight for the Ford 302, COMPLETE, ready to run, but without fluids, is 424 pounds. This includes flywheel, starter, alt, carbs, etc. (I have actually weighed a 302, so those figures are pretty accurate)

Larry, to align your engine, set it to where the carb flange on the intake manifold is level (when the car is level). This will put the engine at a downward tilt of about 2.5 degrees (at least that's what my 302 worked out to with an Edlebrock intake). Next, ensure that the input to the differential is pointing upwards at the same degree angle. This is vital to ensure vibration-free performance. See the "Design Details" section of my website for links to driveshaft companies for more details.

Oil pan - I'm using a "dual-sump" pan on mine. This has a small hump in the front, with a deep hump and the oil pickup in the rear. I cut the center out of it and welded a sheet metal filler in its place so the oil in front could be drained out the back, instead of having to use the front drain plug. ie, I only have one drain plug now instead of the standard 2 plugs. I did this because the front plug dumped right onto the crossmember, which would creat a mess every time I drained the oil. Plus, I gained an additional 2 or so quarts oil capacity. This is in a TR6, so I don't know if you'd have the same problem on an MGB (the MGB/302 conversion is next!)

Do you know of an oil pan/pump setup that doesn't have the front hump as well as the rear?

Sebring - Great show - wish you all could have been there.
Dan Masters

I am very interested in putting a 302 in my rubber bumper car,but it seems as though everyone is either just starting the project or has quit half way through.If it's that difficult I think I might just go with the Rover.Does anyone know of someone who has actually finished a Ford and put some miles on it?And will a kit become available from any source?Thanks.
David Libby
David

David, kits will eventually be made. The only reason I quit is $$ pure and simple, I would not be any farther had I done a 215, in fact I think my 302 will likely end up cheaper than a 215, but that remains to be seen.

Bill G will put out a kit, but it will take time as to put out a kit you have to make sure it is right and works for everyone..
Larry Embrey

I think the 302 conversion sounds like the cat's meow. Don't get me wrong I am grateful for the Rover, but one can dream.

>Do you know of an oil pan/pump setup that doesn't >have the front hump as well as the rear?

Dan, I would have thought the Econoline sump & oil pump would be just that, no? I thought that in order to use anything but a very old 302, one had to reverse the sump clearance since it would hugely foul the x-member, so the B/302 guys were using the econoline sump & pump.
David

David, I have done some research on oil pans, and the one that would work very nicely is from a Bronco or the late model fox body Mustang in conjunction with the timing cover and water pump which they are also made of alum. This will further help reduce some weight.

A road racing dry sump type pan can be use and the oil tank install somewhere in the car, the down side is $$$
Remember that the 5.0 is not a deep block so the oil pump is above the engine block oil pan surface, therefore that part of the pan can not be removed.

The more I plan the kit for the V8 Ford the more pieces I will add to the kit to facilitate the installation. I am thinking of offering a modified cross member to the kit, this will facilitate the
installation and would help to install the engine lower in the engine bay.

I met a very nice gentleman who can make a hood bubble like the RV8 from alum; this guy is an artist. This could easily be adapted to any hood. We are going to try it on the V8 conversion GT along with the suspension kit.

Yes David! your are right the Ford V8 is a perfect combo with the B Like Larry stated in the long run is cheaper than a Rover, and if you keep it siomple it can give you plenty of fun miles.
Bill Guzman

Well the pan I am using, I am not sure what it came out of. Mine is banged up and thrashed and is just for test fitting purposes. I researched with a mustang buddy and he pointed me to a pan Summitracing has. $60 (dealers want $125). They are what I hear called a "dual sump", they have a small chamber up front that is required to clear the pump itself, and then a deep sump area in back. you will need to get a rear sump pickup tube to mount to your oil pump. I will be trying to use plasticiene or somthing similar to test how much clearance there is between the pump and oil pan. I heard someone say they cut the front hump out and replaced it with sheet steel which allowed them to not notch the crossmemeber as much..

BILL,
The timing cover and water pump, are you talking about the ones that use the serpentine system? I would be concerned in that I believe they have a dipstick mount in the timing cover, which is bad since the oil resevoir is the in the rear...
Larry Embrey

I think I have heard of a 302 powered B in St Louis maybe?I could be wrong,I don't remember exactly.Has anyone heard about this car? I really want to talk to someone who has done the whole conversion to get a feel for what I'm in for and if it's beyond my limited ability as a mechanic.I want to get started soon,got the itch so to speak,and don't want to start collecting Ford parts if it's a real big job.Thanks everyone for any help.
David
David

You are looking at a job that is just as complex as a 215/rover install. they really are about ht esame in terms of what in involved. The Ford DOES require notching the crossmember which 215's don't normaly require.

only completed 302 i know if that fits under the hood without bulges or scoops in Dale's, you can see his car on my site. He used a Auto tranny on his, but plans to switch to T5 eventually. go to the photo album section..

www.larryembrey.com/mgb
Larry Embrey

Larry,for whatever reason I can't access your site.Do you have an email address for this Dale?Have you seen his car?I'd love to talk to him about it if you think he wouldn't mind.Thanks again.
David
David

Only talked to him via email as he lives in VT. try my site again, sometimes it goes down..

I will forward your email address to him and let him contact you..
Larry Embrey

Larry Embrey, In a recent post you stated that an article on my website claimed that it was not necessary to notch the front crossmember to install a Ford 302 - can you tell me where that is on there? Yeah, I know, it's my website and I should know, but I can't find it. BTW, Ted Lathrop has just finished fabricating the prototype for a complet new front suspension setup for the MGB - complete with unequal A-arms, tube shocks, and light weight disc brakes (I have photos of it if you are interested). I saw it at Sebring, and is looks to be a super nice design. The cross member is shallow, so it should handle the Ford oil pan with no problem. You can contact Ted at (fastcars@accn.org) for more details. He also offers comple rear axle assemblies, with disc brakes. You can see his Chevy powered TR6 on my website also.

David Libby, You asked if anyone knows of any completed, road tested, Ford conversions - there are three on my website(http://members.aol.com/danmas), with links to several others. Just browse around in there, and you'll find several. Dale Spooner's name was mentioned by Larry as one. I have seen Dale's car on several occasions, and I know he drives it all over the country with, apparently, no problems. It is a very well done swap. Dale is a very decent guy, and I don't think he'd mind at all sharing his knowledge with you.

David in NJ, If I'm not mistaken, the Econoline pans have the dual sump. The front sump is very shallow, just enough to clear the oil pump, while the back is quite deep. Even so, the shallow front portion is what creates problems with the Ford and the MGB crossmember.

Larry Embrey, You said you have found a clutch slave cylinder that bolts right up to the stock clutch arm - how are you mounting it? I thought all Mustangs used a cable for clutch operation, which means that it pulls the clutch arm, rather than pushing it. This means the S/C will have to be mounted in back of the clutch arm. There just isn't room for this in a TR6, and I would have thought there would be even less room in an MGB. Details, please! I'd like to save the hassle of a HTOB myself. An article for the V8 newsletter?

James D, You just might be able to get by with the Mustang clutch quadrant on an MGB, where I couldn't on the TR6. The M/C on a TR6 is facing forward, whereas it is facing to the rear on the MGB. When you press the clutch pedal, the upper arm on the pedal moves towards the rear of the car. It shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket to connect clutch cable to the stock pedal assembly. If you do, please let us know, as I'll be facing that problem myself when I get to the MGB/Ford conversion next year (hopefully, next year!). An article for the V8 newsletter?

Everyone, I got a chance to drive Mike Moor's Buick 350 powered MGB at Sebring this month. No, that's not the aluminum engine, that is the cast iron lump! I don't know the weight of that engine, but I'm pretty sure it's a LOT more than the Ford 302, but I can tell you, the extra weight on the front was not a factor - the car drove like a dream! From that, I'm convinced the Ford will not be a problem in terms of weight over the BOP/Rover engine. My prediction? It's just a matter of time until Ford swaps outnumber BOP/Rover swaps.

Dan Masters in Tennesse
Dan Masters

Dan,

Mind if I help with your typo?

<<Everyone, I got a chance to drive Mike Moor's Buick 350 powered MGB at Sebring this month. No, that's not the aluminum engine, that is the cast iron lump! I don't know the weight of that engine, but I'm pretty sure it's a LOT more than the Ford 302, but I can tell you, the extra weight on the front was not a factor - the car drove like a dream! From that, I'm convinced the Ford will not be a problem in terms of weight over the BOP/Rover engine. My prediction? It's just a matter of time until Ford swaps outnumber BOP/Rover swaps.>>

Mike's engine is a '64 Buick 300 (iron block with aluminum heads). It probably weighs very close to 302 Ford w/ aluminum heads and intake. I would think that Mike's & Dale's cars are close in weight and about 60 lbs. over stock. A very good trade-off considering the gains.

I agree with you, Dan, if I could have a crossmember like Ted's, a Ford swap is the way to go. And I'm a Chevy man!

For that matter, it's not that big of a deal to notch the stock crosmember. After driving Mike's and Ted's cars, I want more horsepower!
Carl

DAN,
I will see if/what I can find on thar article. I know they mounted the engien higher up. they welded a "ear" to the top of the MGB frame to mount the block to. That will put it a bit higher than my and Dales blocks.. I will get you a link.. YES send me pictures of his front suspension. I have already notched my crossmember, guy next door Tig welded it, came out darn nice!!

As for the clutch slave, yes you are right the mustang uses a cable. This slave Cyl is made by wilwood, it is a literal cylinder that pulls itself small when pressure is applied. As I have said before, my conversion is tabled for the winter and I just finished re0installing the 4cyl yesterday. I know it will be tight fitting this cylinder, but I never got far enough to get it mounted. I am already seeing that I will have to "relieve" the driver-side tunnel a bit, probably 1/4" to maybe 1/2" to clear the arm. I want to go away from a HTOB as awell. You can get them as ford made certain vehicles with T5 and an HTOB, but everyone I talked to said to run away from HTOB, then there is the one FROM D&D, $250 is just a bit pricey for my taste (no offense D&D, I have seen it and it is a robust and beautifull piece, no doubt worth it..) Here is the wilwood, summitracing has them for $55. http://www.wilwood.com/products/slave_cylinder/slave_cylinder.html
Larry Embrey

Yes Larry, the oil deep stick on the late model timing cover would be plug. It appears that that this timing cover is also shorter.
FYI Larry, I am working on the best location for the motor mounts, I don't want to have to add any steady bars to the engine etc. to keep it from rocking like some Rover V8's. So location and type of motor mount is important. Next are the headers.

Bill Guzman

Bill,
I assum you have seen Dale's car? His mounting is unique and I like it, but it does require some "free form" fabrication..

I saw you mention including a crossmemeber in your kit. That is a GREAT idea! Since we know it HAS to be notched (at least so far) and it makes a good mounting point. I would think you could to a "core charge" type thing. People would send you thier crossmember up front, or if they had car on road, you could have a spare or two from parts cars ready to modify.. then when they swap out they send you thiers and you give them a core refund. Just an idea..

I ended up cutting up the bottom of my parts car crossmember (car was in accident and it was warped) to make the panels for my notched one. I will try to take some more measurements this week on how big the notch is.

HEADERS - I tried stock shorties and some various hybrids of them with no luck, the 302 is just wide enough that there is not roon between block and frame (even in back corners) to route exhaust. So ti will be out through the wells. I am going to make my own headers either to simulate the RV8 type or maybe collect in the engine bay and have a single pipe exiting..
Larry Embrey

Larry,thanks for the tip.Dale sent me pics of his conversion,looks great.I do like where his mounts are,just like they would be in a normal V8 car.The headers look like a pain but he said he did his in a weekend and has have never had any problems so I think this summer I will start on it.Seeing a finished car gave me the motivation I needed!
David
David

YEs it sure does, so does goin to a club meeting and hearing where other converter are at... I am now going to build my own exhaust also.
Larry Embrey

all this talk about slave cylinders..i just mounted the stock MGB slave cylinder on my 302 and it works ..i will send u a pic larry and you can post it with my other pics
andrew pellerito

PLEASE DO!!!! using the stock one would save me another $55!!

FYI - My conversion is back in action. I just confirmed the sale of my 1800 motor, so I have $$ to continue,,,

Larry Embrey

larry ,the only thing that i need to find out and i will as soon as i pull out my 1988 5.0L mustang out of storage is exactly how far that fork arm must travel to engage the clutch from its non-engaged position
andrew pellerito

Well, getme picts of what you have... I'm dyin over here!!!

Next weekend I lose my 1800 engine, so I want to get busting on the 302...
Larry Embrey

How much of a problem is the EFI system causing (hight, width, etc)????
J

The EFI on a 5.0/302 will be to high to fit under a stock mgb hood. You would need to put a bulge in the hood for it to work. Not impossible though.
Larry Embrey

Larry,
How many inches?
J

Does anyone make a fiberglass MGC hood in the States? I remember someone mentioning a purchase of one awhile back but he couldn't remember the manufacturer.
James D.

James, there is a place in Orlando called British American Motors that sells them. I personally think the people who own the company are some of the most assholic individuals I have ever had the displeasure of speaking with (they actually would not tell me how to best install a part they'd sold me unless I agreed to pay for their advice -- literally -- when I'd recently spent hundreds for a hood!) but I can confirm that they do make fiberglass C hoods. The quality is pretty good.

... BUT, remember that a C hood won't get you any additional clearance until you are way out near the radiator!!! Take a good look at one and you'll see what I mean. I paid about $400 for one including the beastly shipping charge and I felt like a complete idiot because it didn't buy me a doggone thing clearance-wise -- I needed it back at the air cleaner, not above the *&%^ing radiator!!
Tony Soprano

J,
It is quite significant, at least with the truck set-up I had. Compared to a drop base air cleaner I thik it was on the order of 3 inches taller. Again, I did not bother doing an acurate measure as it was plain to see it just would not work for what I wanted.

One note for all looking at a 302, is rack clearance. If you set the engine back, the balancer will land squarely on the crossmember which put the engine high in the car. I ended up moving mine 1/4" forward and am going to have the rack between the balancer and oil pan, this sis cost me about 1/2" which made me have to get the drop base cleaner.. Also the crank pulley will land right on top of the swaybar. There still is the possibility of spacing out the damper or lowering the rack. I will see what I want to do in the nxt week or so.. Good news is that right now I have room for a mechanical fual pump which saves so wiring of a straonger elect one.
Larry Embrey

$400 for a hood? The Fibrglass MGB hood costs $150 or so, I think i'll add a 3" cowl induction to it since that would be cheaper. I thought about setting the engine BACK and using a low profile 7qt pan, with those two I should have the engine behind the front cossmember and dropped low. The hood has to clear a Edelbrock Victor 5.0 EFI intake, which is a bit big.

I have most of the EFI stuff, I am working on collecting the brake/suspension components.
Porsche 951 or 993 front brake calipers, rotors, hubs, and spindles. Plus, another set of front rotors and spindles for the rear. I am getting ready to pick-up a Ford 9" to use as a centersection for a IRS assembly. (a cross between a '85 Corvette and Jag)

oops, maybe I should finish the conversion then show and tell before someone else beats me to the finished project? (Car is somewhat going to be like the Twin Turbo MGB that is in Australia)
James D.

James, how in the world are you going to get the engine behind the crossmemeber. Only way I can think of is to cut back the firewall pretty severely. My head are against the firewal and my oil pan reaches to the front of the cross member. I am using a "shallow front" oil pan on mine, the issue is that the pump is in front, so you have to have a certain depth of pan up front, so the oil pan should not help your plan, but I look forward to seeing what you do!!
Larry Embrey

James if you want to see an actual finished car,write to Dale at MGV8VT@aol.He did a 302 years ago and sent me several great shots.I think he's one of the few thats been there,done that!He is very helpful and will answer any questions you have.
David

Yes, Dale is awesome and very helpfull. his car is featured on my website. He completed his car 6+ years ago and it has been reliable ever since....

www.larryembrey.com/mgb

go to the photo section, then V8 conversions, his will be listed....
Larry Embrey

This thread was discussed between 22/02/2001 and 20/04/2001

MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical BBS now