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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Engine Cost

You guys have me hooked on a V8 replacment. What can I expect to pay for a good running 215 Rover engine. Reason I'm asking is a co-workers Dad passed away and he has two complete engines in the grarage. Asked me to make him an offer. Is there anything special about these engines that makes them any more special/costly than any other small block?? Thanks!
Mike D.

I recently purchased a 2000 Discovery engine for my conversion for about $1500 and $200 for shipping. You can check out Rovers Canibal on the internet. They usually have semi new engines for $2500 to $3500 for the 4.0 and 4.6L. There is also a 215 engine block on Ebay that was running about $300 last time that I checked. I once passed up a complete 1962 (I think) Pontiac tempest car for about $900. I wish I would have got it for that price. One other of the "threads" have more information about engines and where to get them. I hope that helps. Would one of these engines have a Bellhousing attached to it? If you are interested in selling the bellhousing please let me know. I am currently looking for one before I purchase a new one.
Samy Cuzmar

I dunno maybe I got mine cheap, or you got screwed, but I paid $350.00 for a 3.5L V8 back in 1998 and rebuilt it myself. Nothing especially difficult or special about this engine.


'running' engines and gearboxes from rover SD1s can be scared up here for under 100. Condition variable.

Justin... the 4 litre engines are far more desirable (to me anyway) and are far newer so $1500 seems appropriate.

Oliver Stephenson

Well here's my thought: The 4.0L in its standard form has the oil pump up in the timing cover, and there's no distributor, and the crank is too long (oil pump up in the nose) so either you figure out a way to make the gems induction system work in the mgb, or you swap out for a new crank, new timing cover, new induction, new distributor, new oil pump..... damn, that's a lotta stuff you have to replace if you can't figure out how to get all that crap under the hood. a 4.0L short block seems like a MUCH better buy to me then you can do the Dan Lagrou stroker motor, or pop in a normal crank and revert it back to a cross bolted 3.9L.

HAS anyone figured out if this newer style motor will still fit in a b?


Sammy . . I used a stock 215 bellhousing on my 4.0. I also have a 215 engine and most bolt on components are nterchangable. Differences are mostly internal and in some features of the block. You can improve the oil system by using a mid 80's Buick V6 front cover and oil pick-up tube. They have 5/8" diameter passages to match the gallery in your block. You can also bolt on a steel oil pan from an earlier rover engine to simplify the installation and gain some oil capacity, unless you're intending to use the late cover and gems system. In that case, you have a lot of work to do. $1500 was a very reasonable price for a complete and good condition engine such as yours.
Gordon Elkins

Justin & Samy,

Yes the nose of the 4.0 and 4.6 L is longer but all you need is a spacer to use the 3.5L Crank damper, availible from RPI. The old style front covers can then be used but you have to change the cam shaft to the old style as well. Not much else is needed. As far as the FI, depends on the intake manifold. Latter square shapped ones are not able to clear the hood once they are cut down. The mid 90's with Currved ends though can be used. The FI ECU can be used provided you use the Range Rover flywheel and crank sensor as far as I know. Others may correct me on this.
I have a 4.6L that I got from RPI but have yet to fully install it.

Are you going to have problems with your lower pulley going through the front of your radiator with it being longer or did moving the motor back resolve that issue?

On a side note, my stepper motor went south of the border so my car is idling about 4000 rpm's right now.$170.00 for a new one! Yikes! Is there no rest for the weary on these projects?


Justin and Samy. . .the pulley is in the same place on the 4.0 as it is on a 3.5, just more crank snout sticking out. It doesn't extend in front of the pulley, though. The parts to change over to a different cover, distributor, etc. are all readily available in salvage yards at cheap prices. As Mike said, you have to change to an earlier model cam or an aftermarket one, but that's no big deal. Most people upgrade their cam anyway. The cylinder heads on the late 4.0 and 4.6 are supposed to be superior to all the earlier stock heads, so that is a benefit, too. It's really easy to put $1500 into the rebuild of an older engine. Still, I'm going to be hesitant to total up what I've spent on this project when it's done.
Gordon Elkins

This thread was discussed between 03/07/2002 and 04/07/2002

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