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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Engine Out
|I'm preparing to pull the engine out of my roadster in order to repair a leaking rear main seal (old rope type - boo!). |
I wonder if anyone has used the 1/2 ton hoist from Machine Mart? (I'd hate to buy it and find that it will not lift high enough, or something.)
I'm also planning to buy one of their engine stands and wonder if anyone has any experience of it?
Finally, the engine is fitted with two lifting eyes - one on the front of the left bank and the other on rear of the right bank. It seems to me that if I use these the motor will want to come out crooked? What have people done that works?
Thanks for your advice,
I too would like to know if the 1/2 ton hoist is adequate for weight, reach and lifting height, as I have a V8 to remove from a Rover SD1. I must admit I was leaning towards the 1 ton model for safety's sake. I think the V8 and transmission will weigh about 450 lb so the 1/2 ton should be OK weight-wise. The V8 on it's own weighs about 350 lb, so most engine stands should be fine.
I think to get the engine/transmission out easily it is recommended that you lift the rear of the car about 18 - 24 inches. If you hang the unit on the lifting eyes it is very rear heavy and you need the height under the rear of the car to give the required room.
I've never done this job (yet) but I do read a lot!!!
|I think you'll be better off lifting from all four corners of the engine. Otherwise, with the canted setup, the engine will twist, IME. I use the outer header bolt holes to lift with an engine leveler. You can remove the engine this way with the car flat, but it is easier to do it with the rear end up on ramps. With the rear end up, there is not as much need for 'reach' on your engine hoist. A half-ton hoist will do fine as that rating is over twice the actual load. |
|To qualify my statement about hoist capacity, as you entend out the boom on the hoist, the load rating goes down, but is still well over the engine/tranny weight, even at it's longest length. I've found it is rarely, if ever, necessary to pull the boom out to the last, farthest out, position. The height of my rolled-up garage door over the front of my car is usually my biggest headache, but although close to the end of my hoist boom set on the last hole, there's still room.|
|Thankyou both for your responses. Joe, that sounds like a great idea - I've just ordered a load leveler! Did you make some brackets that you bolt to the head using the header bolts, or what?|
I ordered two pair of lifting brackets from Eastwood, then had to flatten out the bend in them somewhat. I think in future I'd make them out of 3/16 or 1/4 inch plate. Four inches long or so, about an inch to 1-1/4 wide, and a hole in each end for attachment. Maybe a small jog to clear the valve covers, and that's it. In addition to the leveler and brackets, you'll probably need 8 or 10 feet of chain, a way to cut it, and 4 shackles for attachment. Makes a super engine pulling setup.
I have just bought the half ton crane from machine mart i am realy impressed with its quality and the height it reaches I have not tried it in anger yet so I cant comment on it weight capability but I am fairly confident it will be just what i need.I also have an engine stand and find it brilliant couldnt do without it
I looked hard at both the machine mart engine trollies and bought the four wheel item as i thought it more stable. it proved a good buy
|Thanks to all who replied. I have ordered the 4 wheel engine stand, the load leveler and the 1/2 ton crane. I'll let you know how I get on.|
This thread was discussed between 07/01/2002 and 08/01/2002
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