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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Engine Steady Bars

Have my engine/tranny installed for final modifications....need to build engine steady bars...figure both sides from up near top of engine down to frame rails...anybody got photos, plans, ideas?
anthony barnhill

You should only need a single bar on the driver side to prevent the engine from lifting under torque. I made an L shaped bracket bolted to the cylinder head using one of the bosses. A second bracked was welded to the frame & a sway bar link with poly bushes is the connecting element. The length of the link (actually, just a super long grade 8 bolt) determines the placement of the frame bracket. These links aere available in 1" increments & can be threaded & cut to make an intermentant length.

Jim Stuart
Jim Stuart

This is an easy one, The steady bar that was under the old 1800 gear box will fit exactly across the back of the V8 motor.From the back of the head to the top of the foot well. The rubber bits will locate pretty much under the hinge so it takes up no room at all. The longer steady bar help soak up more vibration than a shorter one. The rubber bits need a square hole to attach to so you will need to either make a square hole in a small piece of angle or cut the mounting point off the gear box cross member and weld it to a piece of plate. You need a piece of plate underneath the bulkhead to bolt to.
Peter

This might not help you Tony, but could be useful to anyone with block side mounts.

In cases where engine-to-crossmember mounts are used, the BOP mount can be through-bolted, doing almost exactly the same thing as a steady bar. Only difference is that when the engine lifts on that side and hits the bolt you have a hard stop. (steel connection from engine to frame) I've never been able to tell any difference in noise or vibration when that happens though so it is a good upgrade.

Jim
Jim Blackwood

saw this and thought of you.
http://www.vord.net/cars/mgb_mods/engine/steady_bar.html

hope it helps
andy heston

Thanks, andy...but it won't work for me as I've pushed my engine all way to rear of engine compartment...plus, I've modified the inner fenders so that hot air is pulled through them into the cavity between the monocoque body & outer fenders...then through them via 1949 Buick port holes to atmosphere

...my steady bars have to be on the front of the engine!
anthony barnhill

A quick and simple method and it works. Both of my engines in my V8's are Rovers but it may be the same for the Buick's. At the front of the right head there is a bolt hole that it exactly above the rack and pinion bracket, One grade 8 bolt, one length of 1/4" stainless steel cable and 2 stainless cable connectors and you can make a quick and simple torque "bar". Attach the cable from the bolt and around the bracket, if the cable stretches just move the connectors and adjust, in four years both have worked with no problems.
Hope this helps someone.
Regards Mike Cook
mike cook

Think I like your idea, Mike...I'll talk with you off-bbs....but, passenger side of engine? That's where my alternator is located.
anthony barnhill

If you are using a cable, surely it must be on the drivers side (LHD) as it will then be under tension when the engine rev's up?
Tony Bates

I made a crude but successful stay bar out of an aluminum angle that runs from the passenger side head to the rack mount on the cross member. It works great and didn't take any time or money. I will have to see how long it lasts but it does keep the engine still. Now the whole car moves when I rev it. You can see photos of my stay bar at http://www.rebornco.com/mgbv8/newmgbv8.htm and go to the Engine section.
Evan

... or for those of us that drive on the right side, a cable must be on the left ...
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 21/11/2003 and 25/11/2003

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