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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Ford oil pumps

Just passing along some info for Ford guys.Some of you may know I had recent oil pump failure,I found out why today.A small piece of the gasket between the pump body and the pick-up screen broke off and the pump sucked it right in,locking it up solid.I've heard of it happening but have never seen it.Naturally I had to see it on my own engine.I caught it in time,it did no damage at all but I wanted to build a new motor anyway.This motor did it's job for the last 7 years,no complaints.Looking closer at the pump I have decided that it is a design problem that could happen anytime.When the pick-up screen is manufactured a hole is drilled in a flange then the tube is welded onto it from the backside.The end of the tube is tapered on the OD so the inner part of the gasket is unsupported and hanging,exposed to the oil flow.When a pump makes pressure it pulsates every time the teeth engage so this probably causes the gasket to bend and retract constantly until it fatigues.I looked at possibly machining the pump or screen for an O-ring but no room.I think the new motor will get no gasket and a thin smear of silicone....


Thanks for the heads up.


Pete Mantell

Don't use silicone, it will not hold up to the oil. It will soften and eventually get sucked in by the pump. Permatex "Right Stuff" would be a much better choice, preferrably the one in the caulking tube, not the cheese whiz can as the sealant is denser.

Jim Blackwood

This is a very unusual situation. Perhaps the gasket was aftermarket and the hole was smaller than OEM. You could just trim your gasket back until "nothing was hanging out there". Not to say that Jim's suggestion wouldn't work, but in this area, that stuff makes me nervous.

Wayne Pearson

I have not seen or heard of an issue with our mustang guys out here and many of them are using high volume pumps on thier firebreathing 5.0's. I will ask around though.

Larry Embrey

Has anyone looked into doing a dry sump on the 302? It seems to me the parts would have to be out there, it would eliminate the need to cut the crossmember, and though a remote tank and filter would have to be used it shouldn't be too hard to sort that out and it's a pretty easy thing to weld up a tank and to cut and weld the oil pan.

Jim Blackwood

That is always an idea. They can be a bit cost prohibitive though? I saw some special dry sump blocks on summit. Also the pumps themselves looked spendy? $1000+? I have not looked into it much, but that is what it looked like to me. then all the fittings, accumulators etc..

Jim, have you dealt with them before?? Fill me/us in if you have some info or experience..
Larry Embrey

If I may Larry, the dry sump system requires an addional pump and the stock pump to scavange the oil from the pan that is return from the block, an oil tank has to be added for the oil that is injected into the engine via the external pump which is driven by the crank, this pump is a two stage minimun if the stock oil pump is eliminated. Some minor mods to the block and to the oil filter area on the block are required. Dry sump oil system on the street is not practical.
Bill Guzman

Most dry sumps I've seen use no internal oil pump, used 2-3 scavenge pumps, and a single stage pressure pump.

An alternative would be mount an extenal oil pump (similiar to a pressure pump for a dry sump) running in a wet sump. Fix your pickup to the pan, with a fitting leading to a pressure pump. Feed it into a filter and cooler if required, them into the stock feed system.

Eliminates the scavenve pumps, deareation tank, and a bunch of plumbing required for dry sump.

Yes, I have seen them work. It would eliminate the requirement for any front sump, as the entire oil pump is moved outside the engine
Greg Fast

Probably allot more work than notching the k member. Seriously folks, notching the K takes all ove 1-2hrs if you have the means to cut and then weld it up. It took us 10min to cut mine, then a little time shaping the new plates, then maybe 30min welding up. Then you work on mounts for the motor. Once all done then take it to powdercoater and you have a nice unit.

Larry Embrey

This thread was discussed between 10/09/2003 and 21/09/2003

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