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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Front Hubs

I am trying to put 5 stud hubs on the front and after getting mgc 5 stud hubs I find that they are scrap!One of the bearing holes is a sloppy fit,and the discs do not run true,20 thou out on one! From what I can see they have been like this from the factory!
Does any one make new hubs/or another that will fit?
thanks Dave
Dave Lowe

Jag MK 2 hubs will bolt right on the front. I think Bill Guzman makes 5 bolt hubs that fit MGB's.
http://www.classicconversionseng.com/Hubs%20kits.htm
Jake

Thanks Jake.Happy holiday.
Dave Lowe

Jake I have looked up the front bearings and the Jag/MGB are different? the Jag Mk 2 has the same bearings as the XKE and XJ6, any ideas how they fit?
Dave
Dave Lowe

Dave,
When the subject of using Jag Mk2 hubs came up a couple of weeks ago, I checked the bearing part nos on a MK2 hub vs a MG hub that I had on the shelf - the inner and outer bearing brand and part nos were identical.
There are other differences between the two hubs that preclude making a conclusion that they are interchangeable and I have never physically installed, but I can say that the bearings are identical.
Graham Creswick

Thanks Graham,I looked in my bearing book(Quinton Hazell, a well known brand here in UK) and MGB-qwb129c Jag Mk2-qwb136c I doubt if the Jag Mk 2 exported to USA/Canada had different hubs? strange!
Dave
Dave Lowe

Dave,
I think you will find that to be a fairly common bearing set if you do enough looking. 70's Ford Mustangs use the same bearings, possibly the early and late ones did too. However the bearings are spaced further apart, leaving no room on the MG spindle for the cotter pin. They are just a tad bit of overkill for the MG but were evidently a very handy size to use. Do some checking, they could very well have been the bearing set of choice during that era. I've heard of everything from Jag to Porsche to Volvo hubs being used so it shouldn't be hard to come up with something suitable.
Jim
Jim Blackwood

Dave
You may be able to save the hub. As long as the area where the race sit's, is not scored or grooved. An old mechanic's trick is to peen inside the hub with a center punch, where race seats. Make several evenly spaced "peen's" all the way around and use some locktite on the outer surface of the race. I have used this trick in the past on rare hubs, and have never had a failure.
As for the run-out it can be trued up in a lathe.

Bill
bill jacobson

I should note, the area you peen is the inside surface, not the machined edge where the race bottoms out.

Bill
bill jacobson

Dave
I think I have two front hubs if you want to try afresh

Roger
RMW

RMW,where are you located,and price please.
thanks Dave.
Dave Lowe

If I try and machine my front hubs to true them up,whats the best way to mount on a lathe?
thanks Dave.
Dave Lowe

Dave,
You can do it several ways. Probably would be best to use a purpose made mandrel to pick up the conical surfaces of the bearing cups. You would need to machine the mandrel and NOT remove it from the lathe before completion of the machining. This will give you the best locating of the hubs, keeping everything square and concentric. It will be necessary to set it up with a 'drive dog' to make sure it doesn't slip. This is virtually identical to how a 'brake lathe' holds the hub to true/turn rotors. You can also use a 3 or 4 jaw chuck or a faceplate, but can spend a fair bit of time setting up and possibly it won't be as accurate.

Good luck,
Tom
Tom Sotomayor

But isn't the problem here that one the bearing races is a sloppy fit? Or has that problem been resolved, and you're trying to turn the brake rotor down to fit an MGB rotor diameter?
greg fast

Greg,
You're right. If that fix wasn't done first the rest will be for naught. There are a few ways to repair it, some of which are better than others. Loctite makes a bearing "adhesive" for just this purpose. Staking has been mentioned too. Other options include machining out the damaged/oversized area and pressing in a sleeve, then final machine to size. Metal spraying, or welding, or plating, followed by grinding will also work, but gets a little pricey.

Some of the runout Dave saw may be caused by the "sloppy" bearing cup. It will depend on whether the cup is just not a 'driving fit', free to rotate or free to move radially.

Tom
Tom Sotomayor

Not sure if this is possible since it's over 20 years since I worked with bearing design in construction-type equipment, but seems to me that bearing races/cups came in various sizes. Perhaps a similar race but oversized on the outer diameter to what we use can be found, and the hub machined to fit the new race. Non-standard, of course, but it may salvage the hub. I don't have easy access to industry standard catalogs as I did before.

Just an idea.
Wayne
Wayne Pearson

This thread was discussed between 20/12/2004 and 11/01/2005

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