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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - front springs

This is really an update on an earlier thread. My front end had started to sag & springs needed replacement.

Based on list info, I bought a set of new springs from BV, as they were the only vendor showing a listing for 73/74 GT springs which are slightly taller than the rest of the years.

The old springs were shorter than the new springs- driver side 1 1/2" shorter, passenger side 1" shorter. Hard to believe the 1/2" difference side to side. After installing the new springs & driving a few hundred miles, I find the side to side difference to be 1/4" which indicates that the body may have taken a set. This may or may not reverse itsself. If not, I will install a spacer. Overall, the front end rides 1" higher, with much better ride comfort. I am no longer bottoming out on the bump stops.

Jim Stuart

A leson for us all Jim - thanks
Roger
RMW

Jim,

What sort of spring heights did you have and do you now have as measured from the wheel center to the underside of the chrome trim. I presently use a rubber bumper cross member and Vicky British supplied springs for an early model roadster. My ride height as defined above is 14.75 inch left and right I only have a 1000 miles on these springs so I expect some settling in the future. These springs supply a nice soft ride with no bottoming. I also use Doug Jackson FRP springs in the rear. Standard rebuilt shocks all around.
James Johanski

"My front end had started to sag..."

More situps, Jim. :)
Carl Floyd

I took my measurements from ground to lip on fender where the top of the chrome strip would be if I had one.

Since I run 195/65/15 tires in front, the measurements are mostly useless to anyone else.

Measuring all 4 wheels, before the swap, fronts were 1" lower than the rears. Now, all 4 are almost identical. At installation, fronts were 1 1/2 higher than the rears. Took about 500 miles and a couple of high speed drives on DC streets(that's what the locals call them- goat paths with lane stripes is more accurate) to settle the new springs.

Jim- what possesed you to use a rubber bumper crossmsmber? (unless you have a rubber bumper car)

If your car height is level or slightly low in front, then you done good. If it is comfortable, you done even better. I run Doug's glass rear springs, & to take full advantage of them, I use his tube shocks. The tube shocks are a better match for the glass springs, as they react faster than the lever action stockers, matching the faster acting springs.
Jim Stuart

Jim,

I'm running the same size tyres as you,and rubber cross-member, but still have a difference front & rear.

Front ride height with lowered up-rated springs is now 24 3/4", rear is 25 1/2" ( measured bottom of trim strip to ground...includes 12" from hub centre to ground approx ).

This is the lowest I can get the car without hitting sleeping policemen.

Mike
Michael barnfather

Mike-

the difference front to rear on your car is not excessive, & probably gives the car the proper stance, even if not the "correct" factory measurements.

I really disagree with rubber bumper front x-members & lowered springs. I did this with my first V8, a 1977, & it had terrible ride quality compared with my later conversions. I did it because it was cheap & easy, but the car had limited suspension travel & a harsh ride, bottoming out on the rougher roads.

More work, but much better results by using the chrome bumper crossmember & matching springs.

If this does not get the front end low enough, I recommend an iron block 300 CI Buick engine with aluminum heads, bore .060 over to 308 CI & add a serious rear end. Rear tires are 215/60/15 to match the front diameter & add a bit more traction.
Jim Stuart

Jim,

Exactly how much more work if I am to start with a Heritage Rubber Bumper shell and CB Xmember (and assuming a SD1 sump)? Is it just the steering mods?

Dom
Dom

Yes, only steering mods. Use the rubber bumper rack & shorten the shaft after changing the angle of the 2 mounting bases to angle the shaft in the correct lineup with the steering column U-joint. Either take a hack saw to the aluminum mounts on the rack or cut & re-weld the frame mounts for the rack.
Jim Stuart

This thread was discussed between 14/11/2004 and 24/11/2004

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