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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - General Questions

Hi All,

The engine and box are going in (hopefully) for good in Wednesday and there are a few loose ends I need to tie up.

It's a standard 3.5 SD1 engine and box going into a 1972 chrome bumper.

1. Where on the box do I attach the speedo cable clip? (the one that the cable clips to, to keep it tidy)

2. Where do you have your speedo cable entering the bulkhead?

3. Can I attach the reversing light cable to the terminals on the box after the engine is in - is there enough room?

4. Any other advice - anything I have to put in or do now before final fitting before its too late!!

Thanks, Liam
Liam

If the axle is already fitted, fit the propshaft before you put the engine and gearbox back in. Don't ask how I know...... Also, if your steering shaft passes through your engine mount, you might want to temporarily remove it in order to tighten up the engine mounting rubber nut. Found out about that too late as well!
Nick Bentley

I swapped my speedo & tacho around (american style dash) and my speedo cable goes through that big bulkhead rubber bung (in front of brake peddle box) after a single big generous curve through the engine compartment. This was to stop needle jiggleing.
Peter

Oh yes, I 'found out' about the tail shaft problem as well.
Peter

I assume you are referring to the heel plate at the rear of the trans. tunnel ? I chopped it off & bolted it back on using 3 nuts & bolts per side. I tack welded the bolt heads to the floor inside the cab. This made refitting & any future removals a lot easier. Barrie E
Barrie Egerton

Not a bad solution Barry,
If you (Liam) doesn't want to do this he should anticipate having to partially pull the engine again so he can move the gearbox out of the way to get the tail shaft into the tunnel. Initialy just put the engine in place so you are able to measure how long your tail shaft will need to be. Obviously you can't have this made up until you know how long it needs to be and you can't bolt the motor and gear box in place until the tail shaft is in the tunnel. Don't bolt up exhausts radiator etc. And there is no need to do up nuts etc.
Peter

Wait a minute. Are y'all saying that the driveshaft can't be installed last? Should be able to slide it back & up over the differential, then forward to the tailshaft of the trans. It's not fun, but I have had mine in & out a couple of times. I did not cut the fixed crossmember.
Carl Floyd

Is the rover with SD1 gearbox substantially different than the buick 215 and t-5 setup? I'm with Carl on this since I've had mine driveshaft out several times as Carl described. My rear axle was hanging on the straps.
Rick

Liam
I think a lot of your questions have been answered, with regards to the reverse cables you can actually fit the reverse switch in the gearbox after it is fitted, i found this out by not checking the switch before i fitted the gearbox and had to replace it, it is tight but i managed to get it out and a new one in in situ. I put some tape around the cables so i could screw it in without damaging the cables.It might be worth adding a little extra cable on the switch as my cables join on the side of the tunnel, and would be preferable to be in the footwell.

I got the propshaft in after fitting the engine and box by removing the gearbox end coupling and then passing the propshaft through the tunnel and re-fitting the end coupling.

My speedo cable went through the same place as the old one, i don't know if yours is different on a chrome bumper, the hole is near the steering rack on the bulkhead.

I haven't fitted the clip for the speedo cable yet as i too cannot see a good place to put it.

Make sure that your wiring loom that comes up from underneath up towards the brake pedal box is tywrapped in place before you fit the engine as it is difficult to get to the bottom area with the engine fitted
GLG Lavis

Couldn't get mine to go in last. Believe me I tried!
Could be because the supra box is quite short/small, so the shaft is longer than the MG one. It also has a longish slide on yoke.
Peter

Thanks for the tips. The engine and box are now in, not much blood at all really.

I have another issue, I renewed the front and rear springs which lifted the car up high which I did not worry about as it was basically a rolling shell, but putting the engine and box in have hardly moved the front of the car down at all.

Given that none of the glass, interior, exterior fittings, doors, bonnet, tailgate, anciliaries or anything else is in the car yet how much more can I expect it to drop when I get these in?

The hub centre to bottom of front wing gap is currently about 43cm.

If it doesn't drop further there is no way I can get the propshaft to clear the heel board!!

Liam

Liam

This thread was discussed between 07/08/2006 and 10/08/2006

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