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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Headers for chrome bumper
| I am currently weighing the V6 conversion against the V8 and am inclined to go with the V8 for obvious reasons, but I certainly like the aesthetic appeal of the V6..any input on this would be appreciated.|
My query is does anyone offer a Header that will completely avoid the steering column with enough tolerance/space to allow for the engine (rock) without having to modify the steering shaft.
|The steering column will need to be lowered to avoid the back exhaust pipe on the header. I believe it's not a design issue, it's just the reality. There are several ways to effect the changes, in my case I retained all the original chrome bumper steering components (rack, column etc). I lowered the cone in the bulkhead, tilted the rack by filing the feet and used a Flaming River universal joint in place of the MGB one.|
If you are in the San Fran bay area, come on round and I'll show you what I did, I'm in San Jose.
| I have read here and there that there are designs out there that avoid it altogather..do you think that this is physically impossible?|
I appreciate the input on what steps you took..sounds like something I would do..it has been noted.
|In the chrome bumper, something has to give whatever you do. |
You can move the engine forward a bit so the rear exhaust port doesn't want to occupy the same space as the steering knuckle, but then you find the oil pan and the steering rack fighting for space. You can over come this by dropping the steering rack down, but then you change the geometry of the steering.
Another thing would be to seat the engine higher in the engine bay, which moves the exhaust port up, but then you have to alter the transmission tunnel by a large amount to make up for the tranny being pushed up higher into the tunnel.
Dropping the lower mount down as Tony suggested is a simple solution to the problem, and is the route I've taken with mine, but you can also re-route the steering shaft by making it into two sepperate shafts joined together with an extra joint, at the same time shortening the steering column, so the original knuckle is pulled back into the fire wall. The shorter column is what overcomes the steering/exhaust problem. I believe this is what a fellow by the name of Bill Jacobson did with his chrome bumper. With either of these options, you'll still have to modify the firewall, but they are probably the best route to take to over come the exhaust/ steering problem.
| I thank you gentlemen for your response. It seems what I have read about header designs was in all probability in reference to the rubber bumper.|
Incidently, I have posted under "Gearbox for rover V8", a link that will take you to a company that offers a transmission kit that is both compatable with the V8(torque)and requires NO tunnel modifications, although with the proper bellhousing the bulk head may.
It also comes with a heavy duty crossmember, a shifter that exits in the same exact place,and everything else associated with the trans.
I have yet to contact them. Here is the link...
I welcome any input in reference to the V8 vs. V6.
|I have just looked at the site and cannot find any reference to MGB with V8, only the standard 1800. With a chrome car and a T-5 box, all I needed to modify the tunnel was a latge hammer. There is none of the cutting and fabbing needed for the Rover box.|
| I will be contacting them on the compatability of it with the V8..but they do show what the torque numbers are for the trans and they even offer a "Heavy duty version recommended for competition use".|
I do like the fact that the kit comes with everything and particularly that the shifter is in the same exact place.
"The conversion is totally non-intrusive to the MGB. There are no holes to drill, no metal to cut or remove, the car can be returned to standard easily if and when required".
"A precision short-shift gear lever is supplied which puts the gear lever in exactly the same place as the original so the conversion is visibly undetectable".
"The MGB gearbox supporting cross member is replaced by a stronger stiffer crossmember stressed to take all gearbox loads and engine restraint loads due to acceleration and braking".
"The propeller shaft provided in the kit is to the original manufacturer's specification:
Torque: 570 Nm, 422 lbft (short duration) MAXIMUM.
Speed: 7000 Rpm MAXIMUM".
"A real bonus provided by this conversion kit is that the gearbox can be removed from the car without removal of the engine. This makes clutch servicing more practical and economical compared to the standard car"
...I may be contacting them next week.
I am curious, does the shifter end up in the same place?
I think I would much pefer the above mentioned route..I am anxious to speak with them next weak.
| I have contacted the company and as it turns out, they feel that their trans is not compatible with the V8 even in the racing heavy duty version.|
He had recommended the T-5..I have just ordered the book "How to give your MGB V8 power"..I am curious to see what they have to offer in way of shifter location.
Using the T-5 the gear lever is in the same position (give or take about 3/4") as the original for my car. As always though, it depends on where you locate the engine mounts
|Thank you for that..there is one other question, but I think I will post it in a new thread topic.|
This thread was discussed between 30/01/2004 and 03/02/2004
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