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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - HOT STARTER
|Went for a drive today stopped to get gas and had to roll start the car. Got home, battery was fully charged, starter made an eletrical noise like half the power was there. Pulled the started, hooked it up, it spun but lacking power. Pulled the cover off and there was some kind of junk in there that was comming off of the windings and it did smell burned up. Its a gear reduction from Clive Wheatley its three years old with only 4000 miles on it. It was also very hot even after the car sat before I pulled it. I have RV8 headers an I don't see how that could overheat it. I know it should last longer than it has. What can I do to avoid this in the future and I'm hoping that this starter can be rebuilt with better parts and still cost less than $225.00. I like that you can pull it out of the car in ten minutes. Denny|
|Sounds like the engine was spinning the starter because the bendix did not fully disengage after starting...just guessing. Alyn|
|Alyn I opened up where the armature goes around windings that are mounted inside the case it's that part the windings that are burned up. On a motorcycle there is a rotor and the stator this would be like the stator. There are some thin flat wiring right underneath the brushes and this is whats burned up and the other part I stated before is all black,so I dont know if the starter was just bad or it needs a heat shield. It get's hot under the engine bay. Anyone not running a heat shield with RV8 headers whose starter has lasted more than 4000 mile in three years. Denny|
|This is interesting to me as I am considering a hi temp gear reduction starter to replace my stock Buick aluminum nosed one. Currently it starts fine if the battery is fully charged, but once it gets past 195°, I either need to wait for it to cool down or pop start it, as the starter cranks over very sluggishly and will drain the battery in a number of tries. I am running block huggers so I imagine my engine bay temp and the proximity of the starter to the header are to blame. Too close for a heat shield.|
Has anyone else had problems with these small starters? Would like to get one but the cost is prohibitive if its going to be a defective unit that won't fix the problem.
|Jake this starter never let me down, not once did it ever fail to start . I did't even smell that eletrical burn smell. I took it to a rebuilder and asked them to see if they can tell if the starter was bad or could it be getting to hot from the engine bay. I belive it will be cheaper to rebuild than new. They had a starter there for $178.00 but the part connected to the engine is off some degrees but they could put my engine side part on and I would have a starter new, cheaper than what I paid for this one. Denny|
|60,000 miles on a Buick 215, 22,000 on a Buick 300 both with gear reduction starters from D & D, no problems.|
There are at least 2 different starters being used as a basis for gear reduction starters by the various suppliers to the V8 conversion market. Some other suppliers claim a more powerful starter than the one D & D supplies, sorry I forget the actual numbers involved, but more important than the power ratings is the accuracy of the adapter. I say this because it seems all have plenty of power to spin the engines, and I have read of some problems on this list with engagement issues.
|Jim, do you use a hear shield. Do you have a way to remove heat from your engine bay to keep it cooler. If not than it was my starter not the heat. Denny|
|I found out today when the battery is low the plunger stays engaged on to the contacts too long and welds itself to the contacts and then with eletrical current going to it it burns up the starter and you get to buy a new one. I need a SDI starter that works the right way and will fit my car any suggestions. Denny|
|years ago I used a heat shield with block huggers & the old Vega starter.|
With RV8 headers, I see no need for a heat shield, especially with the smaller gear drive starter.
At the very least, I would find a new source for a starter & compare with the one you have, to get a different unit. Ideally, you want an OEM starter that has been modified to fit your V8 rather than an aftermarket unit. I say this because it is rare that an aftermarket unit is of the same high quality as OEM.
|Here is where I will buy my starter. www.britishstarters.com. Its a 1.9 Nippondenso starter I have heard good things about this starter and it says liftime guarantee what ever thats worth these days. Read the story of who they are. Denny|
|Ted at TS Imported Automotive said the guy above uses a different housing so the gearing dosen't line up quite right and Ted's is a special made Nippondenso. His is also $225.00. To be fair D&D is someone to look into also I'm not sure if there is another who support's this group quite like Dan and his family.|
|The only thing Wrong with a hot starter is I get HOTTER than that gear starter!!! I have tried 2 & thay bOTH WENT UP IN SMOKE!!! & I was HOT!!! 750,000 miles on my V-8s & with the lucas, buick high tork starters I have NEVER had one go up on me. I would rather have to push the OLD CASTIRON (10 lbs. heaver) starter than through $200.+ away!!!! I will not use the vega, alu. noise starter, I have seen problems with them. The OLD VERS.the NEW? witch way do I go???? I know how I go, every start for 23 years!|
|Glenn where do I get the starter you are talking about to fit my Rover 3.9 RV8 headers engine. And how much. Denny|
This thread was discussed between 05/09/2005 and 10/09/2005
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