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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Instrument Guages Upgrade
|It obvious that the V8 conversions thread has run out of steam so I thought that I would post my question so as to get things moving.|
I am in, have been for some time, the process of a V8 conversion to my GT and would like to upgrade to modern guages even if it means changing the dash layout.
Who out there has gone down this track and what was used and how did they do the conversion. By the way I have a new wiring loom from Advance Wire in the States.
I am running 3.5lt rover motor with Hot wire EFI.
|Mike Cook has done it take a look http://www.britishv8.org/MG/MikeCook.htm|
he used Dolphin gauges
Here's another cool example:
"Cyberdine Digital Gauges (which display 0-60mph time, quarter-mile time, quarter mile ultimate speed, and RPM recall). The gauges are installed in the factory dashboard, as shown below."
|Bill Guzman of Classic Conversions recommends TPI instruments. They fit the later dash. For the early dash with the larger dials I found these adaptor rings from a marine supply company that will enable you to fit the smaller gauges. http://www.livorsi.com/catalog/powdercoated_accessories_bezels.htm#FLAT_BEZELS|
LED INDUCTIVE SENSOR (M8)
Smiths Classic Electrical Gauges
Smiths Classic Mechanical Gauges
|SMITHS SPEEDO (Hastighetsmätare)|
(MGB K-series EL5)
|Caerbont Automotive Instruments (Smiths)|
|I am using CAI gauges - the Telemetric range (see the link in Ingemar's posting). One advantage is an electronic speedo so I can dial in the correct ratio and adjust it if I get the maths wrong! I have a Range Rover speed sensor to provide the input signal. In my opinion the gauges look good in a traditional manner, are better illuminated and should work well. You have to get CAI to alter the fuel gauge to suit the MGB tank sender. The dual gauge is entirely mechanical - no electronic senders are needed.|
I'm also using an Auto Advance harness and hot wire efi, but I can't tell you if it all works as the car isn't finished yet.
|I went with the VDO Cockpit Royal and a Hall effect sender.|
They are much brighter than the original. I had a white decal made up for the oil pressure gauge.
Nice gauges but I wouldn't recommended the distributor.
|Thank you for your input, photos, links guys.|
All the best for Christmas 2008
Sorry but I can't help with the gauges question but I have one for you.
What are your thoughts on the wiring loom?
Email me direct if you would rather.
Merry Christmas and a Happy and especially safe New Year.
Cheers , Pete.
I have a complete new wiring harness from Advance Wire in the US which I brought when the Aussie $$ was riding over the USD$.80 mark. Through that this was a worth wile move as I was rebuilding from scratch.
Have a safe of tomorrow guys.
I have the Dolphin Shark Gauges with the electronic pulse generator to fit the T5 transmission. They are not installed in the car yet. I had to machine an adapter ring out of aluminum to fit the smaller tach and speedo in the larger holes. It is a '77 roadster converted to '70 chrome split bumper with a 3.5 Rover. Photo shows the gauges set in the dash but not permanently installed yet.
|Phil- Where did you get the beige dash? I've many years wondered about beiging-out the dash, console and steering/ignition box. Your setup is beautious. VEM|
I used SEM Color Coat. It's available directly from SEM but I think I got mine from Eastwood. My dash was the standard issue black but I wanted to lighten up the interior. The console and steering/ignition box is done as well. I have Fiero seats done in a medium tan leather and this colour (Palomino #15323) came the closest to matching the leather.
I cleaned the items very carefully using SEM's plastic prep before spraying the colour, then used a low luster clear over the colour for extra protection. Time will tell how durable the finish will be. The car will be on the road next summer.
A DPO "augered" a nasty hole in the lower left of the dash for some reason. I may mount the Audiovox cruise control there or make and colour plastic bezel to mount a light switch.
|Phil- 2 Things ol son. How has the color change dye/paint held up on that gorgeous interior?|
Your sporadic comments of late on the SC car needs a summary please. Last memory was the engine was out and you were fixing (?) detonated piston holes. Did you finger-out the 11* one tooth off trigger wheel and develop a map for the MS2.2 to advance on.
I have joined "On The Road Again" Classic Car Restoration as the "Knew Products" head. We are assembling a complete-every nut, bolt, wire extension, etc., etc. kit for the MGB EDIS. We have one using the flywheel for the trigger, but realize the H Balancer mount, behind, will finally rule the day. We offer the MS 2.2 built or not ( for my money, the prebuilds for $125 extra are worth the doe. It took me 14 hours to wire up the part pack, and at least a day to test things, all this BEFORE the advance graph is set!
I'm still flouncing around in unknown territory as I baby step around the EFI on the MSX cross flow, using the Suzuki GSRX EFI setup, 4 ITB ( 38 mm flops) and a home made air box. Don't ask me how it runs as I haven't known for 2 years!
Fill us in o wild one on the SC fine tune and secrets or advice on getting her to run. Regards, Vic
As I mentioned in my early January post, the re-dyed dash isn't installed in the car yet. Still in the final stages of paint prep. Now in epoxy primer and hi-build waiting for warmer weather in this part of the world for final paint. My latest project is a custom grill make with 1/2" hydraulic tubing (powder coated)and polished 1/8" SS TIG rod - pic attached.
As for the holed pistons and EFI questions, I think you've confused me with someone else posting here. I'm a bit of a fossil and am comfortable with fossilized parts (carbs!) and have a traditional 3.5 Rover with an Edelbrock setup.
My engine installation. A close friend did the machine work, I did the rest, including the ceramic and powder coating. The block and heats were baked at high temperature, then powder coated satin clear. A Rover 3.5, 20 thou over with 10.5:1 pistons (ceramic coated tops & dry film lube skirts), custom Erson cam and valve train (with DFL), heads and intake port matched, ceramic coated combustion chambers, ceramic coated headers, early Mustang rad, custom air intake, custom motor mounts using early Corvette trunion bushings that just happened to be on the shelf, compact alternator from Kobota diesel tractor, T5 with 0.63 OD and Weber HTOB. Dual ceramic coated exhaust with x-pipe. Both exhaust pipes exit in original B location through a custom built resonator with SS tips.
|Phil O- Truly a very pretty piece of work. Do you have a story you told in the v8-V6 forums and/or magazine? I tried a T-56, but could not really get it shoehorned between the 2 seats in the space provided ( it is very available to anyone who wants to try to monkey wrench that badboy into the tunnel). I did some damn fine sheetmetal hacking though. I moved the gas tank over 3 inches to get the 1 3/4" dual exhaust out around both sides of the tank. And those separated exhaust tail pipes quietly tell the story. The startup burble sounds much like a v-8 though.|
May I ask regarding your exhaust pipe treatment? Ceramic coated in and out by you?!? Your own oven or UV light strips? I know I did mine quite swiftly, using the 27 inch oven box on the converted electric range oven to bake the header/collectors, then the "H" piece crossover, and then the rest of the out tail pipe to the single damper box before the gas tank.
Are you up and running? What stories will you share with us? Cheers, Vic
The car is not running yet. The drive train is complete and has over an hours running on jack stands. The body is done with exception of the trunk lid and in epoxy primer and hi-build primer waiting for warmer weather in this part of the world for final paint.
I wanted to have my exhaust system to look as close to stock as possible and to avoid moving the fuel tank. I think that at first glance from the rear of the car, it looks like an aftermarket system for the stock B.
My exhaust system was fabricated using 2" tubing and custom bent at a friend's muffler shop. The welds were done with TIG.
There are ceramic coated heat shields installed over the glass pack mufflers and over the top and gas tank side of the rectangular muffler/resonator. The whole system (outside), including the block hugger headers, was ceramic-coated using coatings from Techline in TX. I'm told that this is is the same product used by JetHot and others. It was baked in the oven of a regular kitchen stove with an insulated extension and auxiliary heating element (electric charcoal lighter) to enlarge the oven. I used this oven to powder coat my block, heads and even the front cross member.
The rear muffler/resonator was not initially planned but when running the engine for the first time with the 2 glass packs, it was very LOUD and harsh. The rear muffler has fixed that but left a nice v8 sound with a bit of authority when pushed. It will still be a bit stealthy around town if I don’t get silly with the pedal.
You may notice a long tube projecting from the left pipe in front of the transmission. This is a temporary plug (actually an aircraft spark plug) in the 18mm oxygen sensor bung. I have an oxygen sensor and a digital fuel/air ratio gauge which I can install temporarily as needed to set up and tune the engine.
I do have some photos posted in a journal on the British v8 website at this link.
This thread was discussed between 10/12/2008 and 17/02/2009
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