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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Limited Slip handling

For those of you running a limited slip rear end on your cars, how does it handle compared to the standard setup? Any noticeable tire wear issues, understeer, or tire barking in corners?
Unless you are drag racing, are there any befefits to installing a limited slip setup? I have no intention of ever driving in the rain or snow either.

Thoughts?

Scott
Scott Wooley

Scott,
Once you get past, lets say around 125(?) BHP, you can break tires loose quickly on the MG B. From a dead stop, this is way too easy. I believe a LSD, and a good rear suspension are items that should not be overrlooked. Overlook the extra 20 BHP modification to the intake system on (whatever) engine you use and spend the money on a good differential setup. It is worth more than having an extra 100 horse power. Besides, you can always go back and get that better whatnot on the motor later. Right?

-BMC.
BMC Brian McCullough

Scott,

Depends on type of LSD but I use this type

http://www.quaife.co.uk/index2.htm

Paul
Paul

Scott--My V8 conversion is with a 5.0l Ford so a limited slip was an absolute. I am using a D & D GM rear end with posi and a T5.With this much power posi is necessary to get the power to the ground as you really cant get big enough tires to do that. Dale Spooner ran his Ford conversion for a number of years without posi but was running a C4 automatic transmission--he has now gone to a T5 and has a posi to install if he hasnt already.These cars are skitterish in the wet as most power cars are --but without posi would be undriveable.I dont drag my car --street only and tire wear has not been a major factor so far..its all in controlling the right foot and not hitting it hard in 1st gear--just my way.hope this is some help--all the best --Gil
Gil Price

I understand the obvious traction advantages to such a setup, but there must be some handling tradeoff. With the typical clutch pack arrangement, every time you take a corner, the clutches are slipping (wearing) or they're grabbing and your tires are wearing. Could it be that once you have a couple hundred horses or more in the MGB nobody really cares that the car no longer corners as well as it used to? Just a thought. I plan on using a limited slip, just looking for some feedback.


Scott
Scott Wooley

I have built 3 conversions with power in the 195-225 HP range, nothing spectacular. All had open rears- no posi- & the first was built as a once in a while autocrosser with M & G sway bars, tube shocks, uprated front springs, etc. It was a GAS to drive! scared the sh*% out of the local Porsch club. This car would out corner anything but a purpose built pure autocrosser & held its own with a couple of solo I cars, so don't say that no one will care about handling, or think that just because you have some xtra horsepower that the car can't be made to handle & still be a daily driver. I put 270,000 miles on that car before selling it.

That said, my latest is probably over 300 hp, has a Ford 8" with a TracLoc street locker giving a 50/50 split in power to the rear tires (factory posi is 70/30, plus or minus, but not close to 50/50). This is the fastest car I have ever owned, one of the fastest I have ever driven, but it does not like to go around corners like my other cars. Not that it is a slug, but it is not close to my first car. 2 equally driving wheels make the car want to go straight & it has a good bit of understeer. That is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, as opposed to oversteer, where you hit the wall with the rear of the car. The understeer is easy to control, just let off the gas peddle, & the front end comes right around. Most cars have a bit of understeer built in as a safety factor, but it is definately not a performance trait. I am learning to drive differently, abit slowly.

If you want straight line performance, go with the max HP & some form of posi. If you want handling, ease up a bit on HP, say 250 or less, & stay with the open rear- no posi.

Just my experience, other, wiser ones may have other thoughts.
Jim Stuart

Jim,

If I'm any wiser than you (and I think NOT!), it's only because I talked to people that are wiser than either of us. There are several different types of limited slip diferentials, and some are better than others for handling concerns.

They can generally be divided into three types: clutch, gear, and locked. For a street driven car, the locked is a definite no-no. The clutch type is ok on a street driven car, but if you really hammer it in a corner, the clutches will lock up and give the understeer you noticed. For high powered cars that need to corner, the gear type is best.

Even among the gear types, some are better than others. From talking with the folks at Curry Enterprises, and massive amounts of magazine reading, I settled on a Truetrac unit. Supposedly, this unit will apply power equally to both rear wheels, yet allow them to turn at different speeds to eliminate excessive under steer.

I hope so any way. If not, when I finally get my car on the road I'm going to be very dissapointed.

As Sgt Schultz used to say - "I know nothing." Just enough to know what I don't know, and enough to go looking to the people who do. Your experience with Tracloc should be helpful to those still looking, and if others with experience with different types would come forth, it would be a big help also.

The problem, as I see it, with running an open diff on a road car is when the inside tire lifts enough in a corner to break loose. If you can improve the suspension to where this never happens, or corner slowly enough that it doesn't happen, then an open diff would be adequate.
Dan Masters

This thread was discussed between 17/11/2003 and 18/11/2003

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