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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Lowering blocks

What is the general opinion on lowering blocks to lower rubber bumber cars? I already used new "lowering springs" from Victoria British and had them dearched another inch by a spring shop. The result is that the rear is at nearly the same height as it was when I began, about 16 inches from hub center to bottom of chrome strip.

I'm really not in the mood to take the springs off again. Do the blocks adversely affect the stability of the rear end and the handling?

Thanks for your help.

Allan
Allan

16" is a little high. Yes, the lowering blocks will work but the springs will likely "tramp" a little more, so you really ought to try and fit some traction bars (be _very_ careful about ground clearance though, when using the lowering blocks and these bars).
Ted

Of all the MGBs listed at http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_suspensionframe.htm and click on 'Ride Height' only one is above 16" and that is with 'stock' springs. 16" *after* lowering springs which have been de-arched as well is very wrong, like the springs are to completely the wrong spec.
Paul Hunt

Paul,

I have to agree that the springs are the wrong spec. But they fit just fine when I installed them, and the car rides and handles reasonably well, I just don't want to have to replace them again. I just want to get the rear down to the same level as the front where the "lowering springs" worked just fine.

Will blocks, such as Moss's 1.25 inch, reduce the stability of the rear, perhaps by increasing side to side movement? I use my car strictly for the street.

Thanks.
Allan
Allan

Allan,

My '77 roadster 3.5 RV8 EFI has the blocks installed with stock springs. Center of hub to bottom of chrome strip is 14.25". I can sense some side-to-side movement of the axle when cornering hard (mild tire rubbing which may oor may not affect you car as I'm running 15" alloy wheels), but it not an issue with regular driving. I plan to add anti-tramp rods and a Panhard when I save up enough $. The whole rear end seems a little 'loosey-goosey' to me, but I've only had the car a few months.

Edd Weninger

Can't comment on the effect of lowering blocks, but I do know that a rear anti-roll bar as per Ron Hopkinson makes a significant improvement to axle location. I have a standard roadster as well as a modified V8 and I have never felt the V8 axle moving about like the roadster does. I've also driven a standard V8 and noticed axle movement on that. Then a few weeks ago after doing some work on the engine I was testing it rather exuberantly and could feel something moving about, I stopped and checked the wheel tightness, but it wasn't till I got home that I discovered both drop-links on the rear bar had corroded and snapped. Got a pair of new drop-links and everything is nice and tight again.
Paul Hunt

Living in Kansas City, I wanted to lower my GT and went to VB to buy the, 'lowered springs'. The first was at regular height and when I bought a second, they weren't any better. I finally mixed and matched before using lowering blocks, too.

David
David

David,

Do you feel that the blocks are creating any problem for you on hard cornering, or are they OK?

Allan
Allan

Allan,
I re-located the front of the rear springs back up to the chrome bumper position. Drilled some new holes 45 to 46mm higher up & slightly closer to the back edge of the hanger. Because of the steep angle you need to drill slowly and carefully , but the whole job from "start to test drive", took less than two hours. The only thing you need to unbolt are the two "front of the rear spring" bolts.
I took this aproach because;
I was worried about blocks (the loosey goosey effect!),
I was concerned about effecting the ride on the rear (both kinds) with heavier/flatter springs,
it was easiest/quickest to do
and it was cheap (ie cost only some new sharp drill bits).
Peter

This thread was discussed between 27/04/2003 and 30/04/2003

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