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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Manifold replacement

That day has finally come... I need to replace the manifolds and downpipes to pass the coming MOT. Just when I can't really afford it. :(

Can anyone recommend a relatively inexpensive means to achieve this? The mild steel tubular set in the MGOC catalogue seems like the best bet at the moment (at 200ukp + 45ukp y-piece), but some recommendations would be appreciated.

My mechanic has suggested sourcing an original cast set, but I've yet to find anyone offering such things. A mechanic in Leeds suggested manufacturing a set, but I've yet to find anyone willing to take this on...

The rear section is a two year old stainless one, if that has any influence on the matter?

Additionally, given the re-occurence of hot-starting problems, what do people recommend to keep the heat from the pipes from the starter? Exhaust wrap has been recommended by my mechanic, and I suspect the addition of the heat shield might be a another option.


Thanks in advance,

Guy
Guy Harper

Look at the 'cast iron manifold thread'. All the arguments are set out there.

If you are staying with block huggers - go the stainless tubular route but make sure they are well made. Clive Wheatley would be the first port of call.

Roger
RMW

Guy

http://www.v8register.net/subpages/clivewheatleyad1.htm

MGB Hive are reasonably priced and do the job.

I would not wrap MS, ceramic coating is expensive although DIY version is available.

Paul
Paul Wiley

Thanks for the input.

I've spoken to Clive Wheatley, and again to my mechanics, and it seems nobody wishes to recommend fitting MS manifolds.

I guess the extra 200ukp to fit SS may add a little value to the machine, so it looks as though I'm gonna have to find it from somewhere...

Clive did offer me a very reasonable deal on all the bits, so I'll likely source parts from him.


Cheers,
Guy
Guy Harper

I have Clive's SS tubular manifolds and I am very pleased. I was like a kid in a toyshop when I was there a couple of years ago.

It is nice to be able to take either side off in 20 minutes.

cheers
Ian Buckley

If your gonna spend 250 on huggers which will still get real hot and one day crack even if they are SS then would it not be worth spending a little more to go RV8. More power and considerably less heat under the hood.
Les Cole

Actually, I have a set of SS huggers with 230,000 miles on them, imported from England, with no cracks or leaks, & they run on a hot running 4.2. They were built from sections welded together rather than runners made from a single bent tube. This, I think, eliminated the stress inherent in 1 piece mandrel bent tubes that shows up with heat, & accounts for the long life without cracking.

The 2 sets of mild steel huggers on my first roadster cracked within 20,000 miles & were welded many times until they could not take any more welds.
Jim Stuart

Well, I'm about 1000 pounds lighter in the pocket (there goes my new bicycle), and I have a car that I don't recognise, to listen to. I thought 70's sports cars were supposed to sound loud and obnoxious? :o)

Given that I've only driven it about half a mile so far, I can't really say whether it feels like VFM, but it felt *considerably* smoother to drive, and quiet as a mouse.

The extra expense (I was quoted for 6-8 hours to replace the manifolds) arose when it transpired that the engine mounts were so flat that to get the new pipework in, the mounts needed renewing. I've been charged 4 hours labour for that, plus a few other spurious MOT items.

All in, they've charged me 12 hours labour, at London rates, so I suspect I'll be eating beans on toast over Xmas. :o/

Further testing to be done when I have a valid MOT cert, and some petrol in the tank... assuming I can afford any!
Guy Harper

This thread was discussed between 07/12/2003 and 19/12/2003

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