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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - MGB V8 engine mounts + gearbox info

Hi,

I'm after a set of MGB V8 engine mounts, anything considered.

I'm also after any info regarding the Rover LT77 gearbox and fitting it to a 3.9V8 (Rover). I have most of the parts, but don't know what's missing and how to bolt it all together. I've had no luck with the internet either.

Any help greatly appreciated!

thanks

olly

ollyhayter @ hotmail.com (remove spacers)
OT Hayter

Hi, Olly.

I'm not expert at anything other than (maybe) Google. The LT77 and 3.9 were both used in the SD1, right? Have you got a repair manual for the SD1? Or TR8? They used this combo, too.

However, if you don't, I think this site looks like it might help:-

http://www.roversd1.nl/sd1web/

TTFN



Derek Nicholson

Olly, I just came across this site. You might find it useful. Be sure to check his other pages, too.

http://www.vord.net/cars/mgb_mods/updates.html

TTFN

Derek Nicholson

Olly,

you can use the BGT V8 engine mounts, they are o.k. for the job. Take care that you are offered these for the V8 as the ones for the 4 cyl cars look the same but are softer.
With the LT 77, the mounts used on the SD1 will work sufficently too and fit the crossmember.

Depending upon the year your car was built, there are different mounts on the chassis rails and on earlier cars you have to change to the post 1974 1/2 type design.
The gearbox crossmember also has to be repositioned for the conversion with the LT77.
There is a very detailed discription given on mgcars.org for all of your questions.

Ralph
Ralph

Olly,

You definitely need the harder V8 engine mounts, try Clive Wheatley, or V8 Conversions (Dave Vale).

Even then a steady bar is advisable.

Avoid RV8 mounts as they are V expensive.

You're more than welcome to check mine out (I have a pit) if you're anywhere near Blackpool.

M Barnfather

Olly,

Contact Clive, http://mgv8.homestead.com/index.html

you must have a bellhousing, clutch arm, bearing,slave cyl, flywheel, pressure plate and disc, pivot ball, from a SD1 or TR8, I would also suggest you get a copy of How to give your MGB V8 power by Roger Williams.


Bob
BOB FISHER

RPI Engineering does a lot of work with the Rovers so might be worth a look at their site or contact them.

Clive Wheatley is a good source (I used quite a few items from him on my conversion). I'm using a 3.5 + 5-speed in my car out of an '80 SD1. AFAIK the 3.5 and the 3.9 are the same block so the LT77 should bolt right up. Did you get the engine and gearbox out of the same vehicle?

As Bob mentioned, the LT77 was used in the SD1, the TR8, the TR7 and some Land Rovers. Parts are readily available for this unit.

Any questions, ask away.

Cheers
Simon
Simon Austin

I like Clives alloy motor mounts for a nice simple fit.
I used two short RV8 rubber mounts to help limit the motor movement. I did have to shim them up a bit.
For the trans mount, I used the stock TR-7 rubber mount in the stock crossmember. It's worked well so far.
Kelly
Kelly Combes

Talking of steady bars, i have got a Clive wheatley steady bar and can not work out how to fit it, has anyone got a picture?

Possibly having a blond moment.

Thanks
Graham
Graham lavis

Hey guys,

Thanks for all your replies.

Derek - thanks for the websites I already have them as favorites!

The old engine + box came from a SD1 - with a twin turbo conversion! I'm confident in thinking I am the first person in the world with a twin turbo V8 MGB GT!

Engine has been uprated to a new 3.9 top-hat linered block, custom stage III heads, fully balanced, high-torque cam etc etc. Currently running 2" carbs in draw-thru config, but planning on changing to blow-thru with a Weber 500 or even EFI if I can afford it.

Current power is estimated 290bhp & 320lbs/ft.

I was actually after some exploded diagram-type thing - which I got off the Rimmer bros website eventually!

Turns out I'm missing the clutch throw arm, release bearing and a few bolts from the gearbox. Just need the engine mounts & a new bit for the oil pump for the engine - plus figuring how to wire it all up!

Should be entertaining fun for the coming winter months. This is my first build - and I'm in the deep end with concrete shoes lol! Not bad for a 26 yr old.

Wasn't supposed to be like this, but my engine builder has shafted me so I'm doing it all myself now!

Will keep you all posted - I'm sure I'll be on here almost daily for advice!

many thanks

Olly
OT Hayter

Oh yeah - I just got Roger Williams book (3rd Ed) - its very good!

Already have the cross-member mounted to the gearbox. Also got a diagram for the clutch hydraulics and I think I've got all the bits.
OT Hayter

Glenn Towery's (Towery Foreign cars, in america) engine brackets set the motor futher back than most and lower. Alot more bonnet and radiator clearance. Might be worth a look.
I adapted the 1800 motor and gear box steady bar and rubber mount. Mounted it across the back of the motor from the head to the top of the opposite foot well.
You'll need another rear end with that sort of power!
Peter

er, yeah the trans and diff/axel is at about their max limits.

Still no luck in finding engine mounts - I already have the rubber bits mounted to the chassis - I require the wierd angled plate things that bolt to the block and then to the engine mounts.
OT Hayter

Olly.
you also need the sdi slave cyl pushrod, try James Paddock Triumph spares they are about a quarter of the price of anyone else at around £5-£6.
good luck.
Arnie.
A.D. SKIRROW

Hi Olly,
Because I wanted to use Edelbrock carburetion and manifolding on my SDI to 1981 RBGT conversion, the engine has to sit lower and further back than the factory mounts would allow.I also wanted to use the SD1 harmonic balancer pulley on the crank.The engine was therefore positioned in the engine bay on jacks, such that the pump drive pulley was 5mm behind the 7/8" roll bar. This left about 5mm between the unused rear pulley and the rack.The engine was lowered to a height of 95mm from the chassis rail to the centre of the #1 LH cylinder front exhaust bolt exhaust, and with an inclination of about 3 degrees down to the rear.RH bank cylinder head clearance to the bulkhead is about 15mm.Water pump pulley had to be spaced forward with machined alloy spacer to suit.
50mm x 6mm flat bar plates were fitted to the engine on each side and bolted to the existing engine mount holes. 4mm plate was fashioned up to mount on the V8 engine mounting rubbers, such that the inner edge could be tack welded to the flat bar. The included angle is about 30 degrees. The tacked assembly plates were then removed,braced with additional plating in the Vee and finish welded.

Took a while but the result is good ( no bonnet bulge).RV8 manifolds must be used as there is no space for block huggers.

A cranked gear lever for the LT77 must be used to bring the gear lever out in the right place and the gearbox rear support cross member is also further back than normal requiring new bolting holes and tapped plates.A custom 65mm dia propshaft of the correct length is also needed.If you can get one, use the R380 unit rather than the LT77, especially on an uprated engine (generally stronger), and run it on full synthetic 75w/90 gear oil such as Castrol BOT130M.

Best Regards,
Tony.

TONY FREW

Local weird engine brackets
http://mgv8.homestead.com/v8con.html
Peter

Cheers for that link Peter.

The engine and box have both been in the car - I just have to refit them with the correct missing parts. Engine position etc is not even a problem - if you'd seen my bonnet you'd know why lol!

Also in the process of gathering parts for using MegaJolt ignition - very nice and very cheap :)

will keep you all posted, cheers for the info so far
OT Hayter

right, sorry just checked that link and I already have the chassis mounting brackets and the rubber mounts to bolt to them - the website does not have those brackets-to-block bits that I am on about - does anyone make them or will I have to fabricate them myself?
OT Hayter

whoa my bad, Clive's just sorted me out.

Anyone got a spare clutch release bearing?!?
OT Hayter

Olly,

Dave Vale V8 Conversions Farnborough Kent, usually has the plates you need Tel 01689 858716

He is also quite familiar with your car and probably supplied most of the original conversion parts.

Glad to here you are making good progress with the re-build.

Hope you got the V8 rubber mounts, the standard one's will tear apart very rapidly, especially if you don't use an engine steady bar ehich really is essential.

Re the induction side I would personally look for a good complete hotwire system, they come up on e-bay from time to time for about £300-£350 which is not far off the price of the Weber without the Performer manifold and fitting kit. If you intend to use the turbo's you could use a megasquirt controller which is fully programmable, essential if you are going to run a reasonable boost level to insure it doesn't lean out at the top end and blow the engine.

Good luck.

Kevin Jackson.

Kevin Jackson

Hi Kevin,

I already have the Weber and Offenhauser - just need a carb spacer, carb hat, fuel rail thing, rising rate regulator and linkage kit (and obviously set it up).

Would love EFI, but I don't have any bits for it whatsoever (including pump etc) and Megasquirt would cost more than the MegaJolt ignition management I'm planning on getting. Plus I'm a complete novice at all this so at least with carbs its somewhat simpler.

All in, I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible.

Already spoke to Clive and he's gonna sort me out with the clutch bits, engine mounts and a steady bar in the next few weeks.

I'm planning on bolting the engine/box together and getting it in the car, then worry about the wiring/ignition and carbs later.

Turns out the weber needs about 5psi to work, and I'm not running more than 8-9psi at the very most so I'll get away with a simple carb-top hat.

cheers

olly
OT Hayter

This thread was discussed between 04/09/2006 and 13/09/2006

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