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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - michel, aix en provence france
I am very interested in all the modifications you've made to your B-V8, particularly your lastet profile of the hydraulic emergency brake. What cylinder bore did you use for the master?
Also, where can we see more pictures of all the mods you've done to your car -- do you have a website?
Sorry, unfortunately I don't have a web site.
I use CP2623 AP racing MC, short travel to cut off, with 5/8" (0.625")diameter. I use the same to the pedal box, I don't remember the diameters (different for front and rear).
The car is a V8conversion based on an american shell with 3.5 rover SD1 engine "slightly" tuned, LT77 gearbox close ratio, hopkinson suspension with bilstein shocks absorber. The car is built by me, except body paint and ally weld. It's a good car.
I am at your service.
Great ingenuity and execution. Really exciting stuff.
Do you have an e-mail address where we could talk off line?
I think I must convert to the hydraulic e-brake too.
How much does the car weigh?
Yes, I have mail.
Good question, I don't know, I will weigh it.
Have you made any camber adjustments to your car? Having just moved up from an Austin Healy sprite to a GT-V8, I find the steering considerably heavier.
The weigh difference between Sprite and MGB is considerable, particularly to the front. I have fitted 1.5° négative lower wishbone and 6x15 wheels, I have 13” steering wheel, I don’t have problem with the steering. A small kit , Frontline product, reduce the castor at front wheels.
The difference between the Spridget and the B is night and day. I too made that transition ten years ago, and I thought the B felt like a truck. My wife, who loved the Midget, won't drive the B because of the heavy steering.
The problem is the castor angle of the B. It has about 7 degrees castor, which apparently worked fine with the crossply tyres of 1962, but is excessive with modern radials. The Frontline kit Michel refers to consists of a pair of alloy wedges which go between the crossmember and the chassis rails to tilt the entire front assembly and so reduce the castor. They won't affect the weight at parking speed, but ought to improve it once rolling.
There has been some discussion of this on the MGOC bulletin board and at least one member is trying the wedge out. They are expensive for what they are, but are much cheaper than power steering, which the MGOC sell.
Ideally I would have a B and a Midget. The B for long trips, and the Midget for blasting around the lanes.
I had meant to write 'castor' not camber in my original note, thanks for reading betwen the lines.
Mike - I'm unsure which the MGOC forum is, I had a look on the B-Technical forum but couldn't find. Could you post a link to the discussion? many thanks.
You need to be a subscription member of MG Owners to use MGOC, but also discusees on V8Register
Ideally I would have a B "V8" and a "K"Midget. The B for long trips, and the Midget for blasting around the lanes.
|I have to question the use of hydraulics for an e-brake. The e-brake is your last line of defense in case of hydraulic failure and that is why they still use a mechanical linkage (cable). Do you really want to be without it when there is such a wide assortment of rear calipers with integrated cable brakes available? Not me.|
Michel, that appears to be a very fine execution of a conversion to a balance bar. I salute you!
As Paul says, you need a membership number to get onto the BBS.
|i have cked the frontline site, unable to locate the caster wedges. i am interested if someone has a CAD program for a similar product and the actual degrees of the wedges. read an article months ago regarding someone who shimmed the rear of X-member a few degrees to gain the caster. the wedges probably could be duplicated individually for private use if someone had measurments or an example. unable to determine how expensive since no info located to date. any help would be appreciated. probably would help a 78 RB "B" steer easier? michel has some great looking mods!|
|Isn't it the front of the crossmember that needs shimming down to reduce the castor?|
|Mike,you appear to be correct. i was in error due to thinking more, not less was needed to enhance steering at speed. i have cked other sites and the above link, the wedges (3 degree)install from the front and reduces caster. i suspect that CASTER & CASTOR are identical terms, just depends on one inclincation and training. others seem to feel 4 degrees total is near optimum with radial, low profile tires available today. unless i mis-read the other info. the "B" is 7 degree + caster and would benefit from a 3 degree reduction to a net of +4 degree. this was acheived by the 3 degree wedges at the front of each side of X-member. Are these above assumptions accurate?|
In one of your previous threads, I read that on your GT you installed nylatron rear shackle bushes.
I did this as well on my GT, but i'm suffering from a lot of squeling noise, although I greased them with silicon grease.
What have I done wrong?
I don't know, I don't have problems with Nylatron. I don't use any lubricant. Put WD40 to the shackles bushes for remove the squealing.
thanks for your reply
do you reamed your bushes to get a better fit?
i removed mine this morning to test the fit to the schackle pins.
I can slide them without to much effort on the pins.
I think that when i press them in the springs/chassis rail, they get a bit distorted, so that the clearence is not enough.
I have no idea to adjust the clearence, since the accesibility is so poor...
Best to is going to superflex...without the benefits of the extra lateral stiffening of the axle..
any more ideas?
This thread was discussed between 24/09/2005 and 09/10/2005
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