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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Need help with flywheel
|I have a Rover 4.2, originally automatic and am fitting a Buick flywheel for a T5.|
I have removed the flexplate and am trying to remove the adaptor that's on the end of the crank. It's held on with 6 socket head screws (8 mm I believe, but maybe 5/16") and needs to be removed so that I can replace it with the stick flywheel. According to the manual these socket head screws are tightened to 80 nM (approx 60 ft/lb).
I cannot get them out, I have tried wrenches and air tools without succcess, I even snapped the 8 mm hex wrench I was using. The socket heads are starting to get chewed up so i thought I should stop and ask the collective wisdom of this group.
|Heat the bolt head with and oxy acetylene torch? The heat might break down any kind of thread locker that was used in there. I know it sounds kind of futile, but I have done it on occasion and it works.|
Success !! 3 came out with heat but I had to drill/extractor the other three.
Now I know the flywheel fits it's time for the clutch
Regards and thanks
|You are ready for the clutch, but you are not ready to bolt up the tranny, because when you do, you will lock up the engine. Been there, done that, have spare T-shirts.|
The back end of the 4.2 crank is approximately 1/4" longer than the earlier Rover, and Buick/Olds cranks, placing the pilot bearing that much closer to the tranny input shaft. When you bolt everything up, the pressure on the crank will force it against the thrust surfaces and the engine will not rotate.
You need to have the crank cut down, or add a spacer either between the block & bell housing, or between the bell housing and transmission. This applies to the later 4.0 and 4.6 Rovers as well.
I made a spacer to go between the engine & bell housing & replaced the 2 locating dowels with longer ones. If you do not want to make a spacer, D & D sells one.
|You can slice enough off the crank using an angle grinder/cutoff wheel with the crank still in the block.|
Jim & Carl are correct but it depends on what T5 and bell housing you are using. I used Ford T5 with adapter plate and bell from D&D and he makes the adapter plate in two versions. One for the old Buick and Rover and one for the 4.0, 4.2, 4.6L. The plate mounts between the T5 and bell housing.
Nice thing from the Ford T5 is you can buy one new cheaper than the GM, $1100 from Summit.
Thanks for all the support, I am using a GM T-5 and D&D bellhousing. Per Jim's previous guidance in the past, I have already purchased the spacer from D&D.
Am I right, I do need to buy a new pilot bearing?
|Yes, you will need a new pilot bush, Rover O.D., GM (or Ford) I.D. D & D will send you one for a few bucks.|
Thanks, how do I fit it, is it just a push fit or do I have to remove an old one first before putting the new one in. If so, how?
|Yes, you have to remove the old one, however, if the engine had an automatic transmission there probably was no pilot bush. Inspection first.|
To remove the old bush, pack the end of the shaft with grease, find a dowel matching the size of the hole in the crank, insert and hit sharply with a BFH. The grease will go behind the bush & force it out. Sometimes. If the dowel is the right size. Otherwise, drill it out. The bronze is soft & it will quickly break up. The first method is more fun when it works.
If Jims method does not work with the grease, you can use a small slide hammer with internal fingers. Most parts stores have these for loan out. I cant recall what they list them under.
Don't worry about it. There is no old pilot bushing in your crank. Put the new one in the freezer for a few hours before installing. Use an old tranny input shaft or a deep well socket just samller than the bushing & tap it in. Should not have to hit it real hard.
Doesn't look like there's one in now.
Without wishing to be crude, how far in should I shove it, all the way ?
This thread was discussed between 26/02/2006 and 01/03/2006
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