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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Original Buick 215 V8
|I stumbled across a complete Buick 215 V8. It appears to be complete and bone stock. It was under some packing material in the back of an older gentleman's shop. It has the original automatic transmission still attached. I bought it for $100.00. I was able to turn it with the starter motor. No unusual noises. I plan to have the engine professionally rebuilt and keep it a replacement engine for my MG BGT V8. Are there any major differences between the two engines that I need to know about?|
Thanks for any help.
There are in fact some differences between the MGB GT V8 block and the Buick 215, one of which is the engine mounting bracket holes. On the GT V8 and Rover blocks, there is an upper mounting hole near the head mounting surface. On the Buick/Olds versions, this hole is not there, so a different set of mounting brackets will be required, the type that bolt with two holes horizontally. My block is a '63 Buick, and I mistakenly bought some of the type that will mount a Rover block, so that is how I know. The GT V8 block also has a one piece rear main seal whereas the Buick block has a two piece rope seal. There is a Ford two piece rear main neoprene seal that can be used instead of the rope one or you can have the rear main seal area machined to accept an one piece seal. Lets see, other differences...If the engine you found is a 4 bbl version, the compression ratio is probably higher than the GT V8. Thats all I can think of now, I'm sure there is more.
|Jake - Thanks for the input -. The engine i found has the original 4 bbl and it still has the original cast manifolds. The only thing I remember reading is that something was different on the oil pump housing. Something about clearing the steering rack. The current engine is noisy for the first 10 seconds or so until it builds oil pressure. I would like to get the engine I bought rebuilt while I drive the car. I believe the engine in the car to be the original engine. If this turns out to be the case, I will probably get it rebuilt later on. Time to do a little reading.|
|The GT V8 engines also had a unique engine code all their own. The oil pump base is what you are refering to with the steering rack clearance. All you have to do with that is change over the oil pump base from the GT V8 to the Buick oil pump, it will straight bolt up. Make sure it isn't too worn also, if it is you can always get it surface ground.|
|Jake - I leave to pick up the engine in the morning. I had it delivered to a friends house in Gilroy, Ca. I did not want somebody else outbidding me on the engine.|
My friend is retired and has too much time on his hands. He cleaned the dust and found that the air cleaner was the original one with the "Rocket" lettering still intact. Still has the original generator, distributor and wires. Fresh oil has neen put in and I would guess he has turned it over a few times. I have found an article that says that the engine should be about 150 hp stock. Seems to be from a 1962 / 1962 Olds Cutlas.
Can the oil pump on these MG BGT units be changed / serviced with the engine in the car?
I know the pump plate can be removed, thats the part that you need to change over, its held on with 6 bolts, but I don't think you can pull out the driver oil pump gear and shaft, as it will be too long and may hit the frame rail. Just a guess, can anyone else back this up?
|Bob, a noisy start-up does not necessarily mean there is anything wrong with your present motor. Drain back from the oil filter depending on your configuration can cause this. There is much info in the archives. Some have called it the "death rattle". However, nothing wrong with having a spare available just in case. Good luck.|
|Jake - I was just curious. I have done an engine every winter for the last five years. I was in no big hurry to pull this one. I will buid a spare.|
Edd - Thanks. I feel better already. I have driven the car enough to know that the oil pressure is where it needs to be.
I will do a search on the "death Rattle."
I know that the oil filter is up high. It is at the top junction of the left fender and the upper radiator support.
I see that you are in California. Do you know of a good shop for rebuilding these engines?
|The lifters are different. Rover lifters don't have a hole in the base & are no good for BOP engines. BOP lifters will work in a Rover though, with a supposedly slight drop in oil press. Barrie E|
|Bob, try using an oil filter with an antiflowback valve incorperated(they're fairly common, K mart etc). Failing that try moving the oil filter further down. My filter locates just below the bottom of alternator level, which is only a little below std, and has only very rarely rattled (and only for about 3 seconds) on start up (twice in 4 months). |
In his book Roger Parker suggests locating the oil filter in the guard below the headlight for easy filter changing. This would also place the filter down low which would be a big plus for start up oil pressure.
(the $100 motor sounds a good deal, bit of a find)
|You might be interested to read the articles posted here:- |
Click on "Magazine Articles" and look at Page 7.
This thread was discussed between 04/12/2003 and 07/12/2003
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