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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Rear axles - again !
|I've looked through the archives but cann't see an answer to my queries.|
I expect it would be too much to expect that MGB halfshafts have the same splines as a SD1 diff ? I'm thinking if they were the same then simply weld the MGB axle tubes to the SD1 diff and use the standard halfshafts.
I know you in the States praise the vitues of Ford 8" etc back ends but it's not as simple over here to find such an item so it's a case of working with whats available - and cheap !
Has anyone tried a TR7 rear axle. Another thought is that they are four stud wheels and it would make redrilling for the MGB stub pattern easier than the SD1 five stud. It would also be easier than removing the SD1 pinion extention tube and fitting a TR7 item ! Looking at Roger Williams book (on page 68, photo 6/2)I'm not overly impressed with having to convert to MGB brakes because, I asume, the SD1's are too big ? I think the TR7 axle might be a better choice - the SD1 gear set can alway be added if the ratio's aren't right.
Another choice, for me, is a Volvo 1800S item that I I have lying around from a car I scrapped last year (I've also got a Jensen bodied P1800 so kept everything for spares). Anyone tell me how I can tell if it's a LSD unit and the ratio (it's off the car).
The diff' is the next thing I'm going to look at, is the Volvo axil the right width/length? Until now I had considered using somthing with an offset diff' as a cheap way to go. You only have to shorten the longer tube to match and no respling ect. One of the Nissans I think, various ratios, disk brakes and limited slip diff'. Appologies, I've forgotten which model. Anyone else know?
|The Volvo axle I have 54" between the wheel mounting faces. |
There are no seperate hubs but rather the drum carries the wheel studs.
It needs a special (or HD) puller to remove the drums from the half shafts to work on the brakes.
The one I have would still need shortening - but I've already got it which is better than not !.
I've got a Volvo 240 as an everyday car and although the rear discs / drum handbrake is a good system it's too much, in my opinion, for such a light car as an MGB. I prefer the rear drum brakes of the earlier axle.
I'm converting a 1970 leaf sprung front axle to take disc brakes using parts from a late model 110 Defender. I need to have half shafts resplined and find that most small engineering compaies can do the work - not just specialist in automotive engineering.
|I have just read my previous message and wish to add -|
"I'm converting a 1970 leaf sprung front axle to take disc brakes" relates to a Land Rover and not an MGB incase anyone thought I was building a 4x4 MG !
|My "inherited" Midget V8 has TR7 rear end cut n' shut...I've yet to get it running but it looks a good job and an std cut down SD1 prop will fit.....Unfortunately you'll have to wait a year until it's finished to see how it runs..At least the diff ratios are good for 13" rims....|
With regard to Ford rear end have you tried Burton Power or
I have my doubts about the strength of a resplined axle but Shot peening has been recommended
Stuarts halfshafts are interesting, I'll have to let Stuart explain.
I use a SD1 shortened axle but the resplined halfshafts could not take it and ended up with Halfshafts made by Strange engineering with Quaiffe SD1 LSD.
Went to the Elgamec site and left an E mail to see if they can strengthen half shafts,
Prob is once they have twisted you need to spend dosh to have a new set resplined and shot peened, and you still can't guarantee they will not twist again.
As you know they have probs on the SD1's without resplining.
My Strange shafts are still working but I have not checked to see if they have twisted but if it ain't broke.
Interested to know Elgamec views.
Got a reply straight back,.... not promising.
"It would seem from what you say that there is not sufficient margin with these shafts for them to be reliable. It may be that, in the long run, the specialist part from America would be cheaper and more reliable"
It looks like I will be going down your route, as my axle runs very quietly, and is the ideal ratio for me ( although Terry Brown still has that LSD hanging around at his place) !!
| Peter of Melbourne, I've gone for the offset way using Ford 8" centre & MGB halfshafts & brakes & I do not reccomend it.It was certainly cheaper, but it caused other problems.The drive shaft is 2" offset to the right,so the RH battery tray had to go. No big deal I know.Then I had to trim 1" from the RH floor to make tunnel wider.Consequently,the plate that fits underneath the drive shaft tunnel had to be modified to make it fit.Then the driver's seat wouldn't fit.That had to be slightly altered. Admittedly ,you would never spot these alterations, even if I pointed them out to you & it all worked out in the end, but it was quite frustrating at the time. Barrie E|
I use a Quaife SD1 LSD makes sense to have fitted if you get new halfshafts.
However, it is possible so I understand to tweek the LSD (LSD already fitted so did not pursue) so that a better spline can be used and Strange will make shaft to your spec.
Any news or rear discs?
Still silence on the rear disc front!!
I need new oil seals on the axle and gearbox, so I'll call round to Terrys and see what he is up to
This thread was discussed between 26/11/2002 and 02/12/2002
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