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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Rover fuel injection mods for MGB

In the pasr, Roger Parker & others have posted the machining info the modify the Rover hot wire FI system to fit under a MGB bonnet for a V8 conversion, but I don't seem to be able to find the info.

If someone has a link or the relevant info, I would appreciate the help.


Jim Stuart

Hi Jim
Try this
Tony Bates
Tony Bates

So Jim, what did you decide to do about the injection? Are you going to stick with the rover stuff or modify it for the ford system?



I have not decided which way to go, but know I have to modify the manifold in either case. My guess is that money & availability will make the decision. If someone comes along with a 4.2 ECU & wiring harness, I will jump on it as the simplist approach. RPI & others offer chips & other tuning aids.

If I find the Ford stuff, Mustang 86-93 at a reasonable price, that would offset the additional work involved .

I'm oppen to all offers & suggestions.


Again, thanks for the link. it was the right stuff.

Jim Stuart

Jim, you'll find the info in the archives. Roger P. posted 2 answers on 8 feb 2000 & 25 apr 1999. search under EFI. I'm going down the same path at present & have already made one mistake so far.The machinist talked me into having most of the metal shaved off the top of the manifold & bottom of the trumpet section.It was easier for him. I've no doubt it will fit under the hood now but the fuel rails won't fit.I've now got to find another manifold or trumpet section & start again.I'll follow Roger P's instructions to the letter next time ! Good luck, Barrie E
Barrie Egerton

Talk to Progress Engineering who seem to be the leaders in FI mods and re-chipping - and have a good reputation for reliable service too.

Try this, it worked for me.
Weld up (or have welded) the servo take offs on the RHS. Fill up the indentations on the inside of the trumpet cover with weld so you can grind off the bumps on the bottom which will interfere with the fuel rail, then you can;
Take a maximum of 16mm off the bottom of the trumpet tray.
Take a maximum of 12mm off the top of the trumpet tray.
You can take 5mm off the top cover with out compromising the bottom (of three) bolt hole of the air bypass at the back. If you're prepared to weld up the bottom hole then you could go another couple of mm.

You can take off a maximum of 33 to 34 mm total before you run into trouble with the LHS rocker cover (even with the air intake water heater removed from underneath), so take some combination of the above, depending on your needs. Initially I had my engine set 10mm higher than it is now (I was using the shorter rangerover pully which interfered with the steering ),and the plenum fitted with about 4 or 5 mm to spare with
16mm off the bottom of trumpet tray
12mm off top of trumpet tray
5mm off cover.
With the motor set as low as it can go (10mm lower) I would by preference have left 2 or 3 mm more on the top of the tray (remove only 10mm) and the rest back on the bottom, maybe been able to leave the vacuum offtakes alone, or perhaps not bother altering the cover instead as this was difficult to fix and machine I'm told.
As it is I have shifted the Brake servo vacuum line to the back of the cover, I enlarged and retapped the Top LHS bolt hole for the Idle bypass and used a hose conection as a bolt. It looks quite neat.
Barrie, since you've nothing to loose, you might try grinding off the vacuum hose conection bumps anyway and riviting on a small cover plate with plenty of silicon? I small peice of angle?. Obviously on the outside, not inside otherwise it might get sucked into the engine!.

This thread was discussed between 03/08/2003 and 07/08/2003

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