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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Speaking of Wheels...
This may have been discussed before, but there's always something new it seems...
My question to those of you who have done the conversion, what is the largest width rim you can fit under the wheelwells without going to flares? I'm talking about any offset or diameter rim, and with the rear end narrowed or not. Just without externally viewable mods to the bodywork.
Also, has anyone out there "opened up" the rear arches (made them round)? If so, how does it look?
|Joe, I know some may have done better but the best I could stuff in there without any mods at all to the fenders (not even folded up lips), and have enough room to avoid rubbing altogether, is 195/60R15. The car has a w/w axle, 22mm offset wheels (~std. MGB issue offset) and has billet spacers on each hub ... the spacer is fatter on the left. If you put a Panhard rod on there you might be able to go slightly wider, as then you could run the tires out to within a couple of mm of the fender lips.|
No, please, no rounded fenders! For the love of G*d, man!
My experience same as Ted's using 195/60/15 but with SD1 axle. My problem is that top range Bridgestone or Yoko's do not come in this size (UK market) but to go to 205 will be a squeeze (CB lowered 1inch). The RB owners appear to be able to go wider up to 215. So if you go wider than 195 you run the risk of needing a slight modification. The MG Owners V8 have squeezed 215 in with a minor body modification so would be worth checking with them.
|Yeah, I have a chrome bumpered car. I asked about rounding out the rear arches mainly to see if someone had a picture of it done. Mostly as a curiosity...I wasn't really planning on doing that to mine.|
So, what makes the rear of the RB cars so different from the CB cars?
What I really want to do is get rid of the leaf springs altogether, make a 4-arm trailing link setup with coilovers, which *should* give me more room on the inside.
I'm considering flaring the fenders, but I don't want to go as wide as the sebring flares. something in-between and much more subtle.
Easy, chrome cars are an inch lower. The fenders come down around the fat part of the tire.
As far as other susp setups, the constraint is the inner fender. Unless you "tub" it to some degree, as they might say in NASCAR, you ain't a-gittin' a wahd'r tahr ian 'ere!
The MG Owmers V8 is using 215s, However they have centered the rear axle. Also talking to a bodywork chap if you bend the lip back and add a slight flare the paint will probably crack requiring a respray. So I will stick with 195's.
|I'm running alloy wheels 15x6 with 195 55 tires with my '67 gt which sits just a little lower than stock chrome bumper. The tires lower the car less than 1/2" and give really precise handling. By messing with the U bolts I managed to get my rear axle pretty close to center, but I have a 1/4" spacer on my left rear and none on the front. No rubbing on the front. Once in a while on a big bump in an aggresive corner I'll get a slight rub on the outside rear. A panhard bar or rolling up the inner lips should solve even that. One big advantage of the 15" wheel is much more clearance for air flow around the front brakes. I tried some alloy 14x6 wheels and found there was very little room for air to flow around the brakes.|
|What is done to "recenter" the axle. I have not taken any measurements, but my axle looks like it is under the bar evenly.|
I will check more tonight, but would appreciate any info you folks can share..
|I measured the distance from wheel to inner fender on each side and then loosened all 4 u bolts (8 nuts total) holding the springs to the axle housing. With a good size screw driver and a light hammering I pushed the axle one way and the u bolts the other way on each side and tightened it all back up. I actually ended up with 1/4" more clearance on the (formerly) tight side than on the (formerly) loose side. jack it up and look at it and you'll see it isn't too complex. |
Theoretically you could reduce side to side axle movement (what a panhard rod is supposed to do) by preloading each spring outward (or inward if you prefer) and in effect pre tensioning or loading the spring for lateral location. On a turn the outward loaded spring would provide little resistance to inward movement of the axle, but the opposite side spring would already be pre loaded and would resist any further outward lateral movement. Less slack ,in effect, but it puts more lateral load on one spring rather than distributing or sharing it between both springs. It would be interesting to do a before and after and see which way worked best.
|Ummm... I don't see how that is possible since my rear axle has spring plates wleded to the tubes.? Are the late cars already centered? What year is your car?|
|with plastic springs I seem to have some slack I can manipulate.|
I understand that on the MG Owners V8 the spring hangers were moved and rewelded.
|Paul, surprised you can get 195s I was at hive yesterday, on the racing gtv8 he has had to flatten the inside rim on the arches, Im told on the v8 axle 185 is the max,|
Talking of wheels has anyone seen the anthresite minators, I like their look interested to know whet they would look on a red roadster
|I've got 195/60x14 Dunlop D60/A2 tires on 6"x14" Minotor wheels. No rubbing, even on the drivers side, which is, of course, sagging. New springs to be installed before the 2 feet of snow melts.|
It is a tight but I also use a SD1 Axle so can't make a true comparison. If you are in the Woking area you are quite welcome to try my wheels.
The Supersports uses 215 so they have found an extra 20mm.
This thread was discussed between 13/02/2001 and 05/03/2001
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